Help! Turn signal not working right.

[barry5k]

My right front and back turn signals are blinking quickly and the front right blinker is really dim. I changed the front bulb and everything was working normal -for about a day.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for your help. I hate to go to the dealership where I live and would rather do it myself with your help.

[Ronmac1118]

sounds as tho you got a bad flasher

[herk]

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[LoudFastUgly]

clean the bulb socket thoroughly, and check the ground on the right front signal.

[Joram]

I had a very similar problem with my VN800A.

Turns out that the previous owner changed the front blinkers and when he wired them in the headlight bucket, he just twisted the ends together and put tape on them.

I had changed the bulbs out and was looking at replacing the relay for the blinker until I changed my headlight bulb and found the mess he left me.

As in all things, if you hear hoof beats, don't think zebra first. Check the little things out first.. You might just save yourself some $$

[NBugs]

I also have a problem with my turn signals...I have an 84 gpz550 and the turn signals do not flash???? The hazard lights flash alright and everything, but the single signals merely stay lit. Also, the front indicator lights are always on (just get brighter when tunr signal is switched on); is this right? Thanks for any help you can offer!

[StarGate]

NBugs, the front lights are dual filament bulbs and they serve as running lights as well as blinkers. That part is normal. Put a new flasher/relay in for the turn signals.

[RichLockyer]

Sounds like a loose connection in the headlight bucket on one of the round "tube pins".

Do you have a light bar on the bike? I had this problem on mine shortly after installing the light bar.

Rapid flash indicates "low" load... either blown filament or an open circuit.

[StarGate]

Rapid flash indicates "low" load... either blown filament or an open circuit.

OK Rich this brings up a question for me. I've had the problem of fast blink with a few vehicles that when attaching a trailer the added draw of the trailer lights caused the blinkers to flash very fast. I always had to install a HD flasher to cure this. Knowing that the relay (old style not the new electronic ver.) work because the contact inside is attached to bi-metal strip that bends as it gets hotter and breaks the contact until it cools down. All of this is because of the amps drawn through that bi-metal strip. Of course it heats and cools pretty fast so you get the blink effect. How are these blinking faster with less draw?

[RichLockyer]

I'm not sure what has changed in modern flasher design, but that's how they've been working for a number of years... it's the "signal out" indication.
In the old days, a lamp out would usually result in the flasher simply not flashing (not enough load to heat the strip enough to open)... unsafe, since it would leave the motorist with neither a front OR rear flasher on that side.

Same problem when you go to LED indications, or some add-ons like the Kury RTB, which draws it's supply power from the taillight circuit and the turn signal input is only used to operate the logic circuit.

I don't know if ALL flashers (from an auto parts store) are like this or not, but it's the way the stock MC flashers all seem to work.

[StarGate]

OK, I know you still work with electronics and thought you might know. All my electronics training is a bit dated now and I haven't worked in the field since 90 so I don't know how they are doing this.

[RichLockyer]

Ya, it's been a while since I tore a flasher open though.
Surprised the heck out of me when my Toyota p/u lost a lamp and went to a fast flash.

[Alizard]

OK Rich this brings up a question for me. I've had the problem of fast blink with a few vehicles that when attaching a trailer the added draw of the trailer lights caused the blinkers to flash very fast. I always had to install a HD flasher to cure this. Knowing that the relay (old style not the new electronic ver.) work because the contact inside is attached to bi-metal strip that bends as it gets hotter and breaks the contact until it cools down. All of this is because of the amps drawn through that bi-metal strip. Of course it heats and cools pretty fast so you get the blink effect. How are these blinking faster with less draw?

Less current drawn can mean the metal strip opens slightly but does not move as far away from the contact. And, since it didn't get as hot, it cools faster and closes sooner.

[StarGate]

Less current drawn can mean the metal strip opens slightly but does not move as far away from the contact. And, since it didn't get as hot, it cools faster and closes sooner.

That sounds reasonable. Hadn't thought about that as a possibility.