Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums  

Go Back   Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums > Garage and Swap Meet > The Mechanics Corner
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Click here to see some of our favorite links!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 3 Weeks Ago   #1 (permalink)
turbochardged
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 14
Default how to use muric acid effectively

i'm tring to clean a gas tank and i don't know how to use muric acid to clean it
turbochardged is offline   Reply With Quote

The Motorcycle Network
Web Directory  
Old 3 Weeks Ago   #2 (permalink)
StarGate
Navy Vet S.A.R. crew
BTK Expert
 
StarGate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NE Arkansas
Posts: 4,378
Default

Very carefully!!! In full strength form it will dissolve metal at a pretty rapid pace. Once heard about a wife, angry that here husband had and affair, decided to punch a small hole in the bottom of a gallon jug and place it on the roof of his car one night. The next morning the jug was laying on the ground under the car. Get an old soup can and pour some in and watch what happens.
__________________
Mike
Original Owner
1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD
2000 Suzuki King Quad

Photos
StarGate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #3 (permalink)
fmnnc
LEEHRAT
Forum Supporter
 
fmnnc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 46
Default

You might want to consider using this stuff:



Located at Gas Tank Sealer - Large Motorcycle Tank Sealer Kit - Better then Kreem - KBS Coatings

This kit contains AquaKlean (a water-based, heavy-duty, cleaner/degreaser) and KBS RustBlast (a powerful rust remover/metal etch) to obtain a permanently sealed, rust-free fuel tank. These KBS prep products are formulated with a unique Oxygen-Block Technology which reduces the occurrence of flash rust by over 80% and extends rust-free storage times by leaving a temporary protective coating in addition to a zinc phosphate film.

There are others but I have personally used this kit and have not looked back. If you follow the directions the inside will look like new. It did not hurt my paint and is much safer than the acid. That acid is nasty stuff and would only use as a last resort.

Last edited by fmnnc : 2 Weeks Ago at 10:47 PM. Reason: added additional information
fmnnc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #4 (permalink)
RichLockyer
Patriot Guardian
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
RichLockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 17,085
Default

+1

AND, full strength, it will release some pretty noxious fumes that'll have you feeling like you're in the gas chamber.
__________________
- Rich
2006 1600 Classic
Member CORVA, BRC
Patriot Guard Rider
RichLockyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #5 (permalink)
QKENUF4U
AZ's Official Mechanic
BTK Expert
 
QKENUF4U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: phoenix arizona
Posts: 3,513
Default

theres good and bad to it. i personally wouldnt use it. ive used KREEM (all 3 parts a couple times and just the acid a couple times) and ive heard nthing but good about POR 15 tank treatment.

this will tell ya more about your way.......

muric acid to clean fuel tank - Google Search
QKENUF4U is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #6 (permalink)
AndrewWoodard
Death Before Dishonor
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 34
Default

Hi, All!

I gather you actually mean muriatic acid? Aside from hearing it's use in cleaning ecthed ceramic (like toilet bowls), I've left it alone.

For the two rusted tanks I've recently dealt with (my KZ305 and a Honda CL100 I'm restoring), I started out with bead blasting the interiors. Granted, it was perfect, but it got most all the surface rust even deep insied the tank. I removed the petcock and locking tank cap in preparation.

The next step was to air hose them out thoroughly to get rid of anything loose still inside, including the plastic beads from the bead blaster.

The third step was to mask over the openings where the petcocks mounted, and put several cups of phosphoric acid solution inside the tanks and swish it around thoroughly for several minutes. Phosphoric acid still isn't something you want on your skin (or certainly in your eyes or mouth), but proper protection like gloves and a face shield provided the safety I was looking for. The phosphoric acid rinse neutralized any remaining rust to inactive base metal. After draining and rinsing both tanks, a light rinse with oil made them ready for reassembly and use.

I'm honestly not afmilier with any of the kits mentioned, but if they can effectively handle the problem, that may be a better way to go for you instead of having to get the materials and access to a bead blaster.

Thanks!

Andrew....
__________________
KZ305 Owner
Senior Electronics Technician
Veteran 6-string Electric Bassist
AndrewWoodard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #7 (permalink)
Big Ed
Cruising In Fourth Gear
BTK Intermediate
 
Big Ed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: North Central NC
Posts: 208
Default

We use muratic acid at work.

Stay very far from it. This is some nasty stuff. Kill you kind of nasty.
__________________
Isaiah 53:5
Big Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #8 (permalink)
StarGate
Navy Vet S.A.R. crew
BTK Expert
 
StarGate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NE Arkansas
Posts: 4,378
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewWoodard View Post
Hi, All!

I gather you actually mean muriatic acid?
Thats what I took it to be referring to. It also cuts/dissolves concrete and mortar so used properly, it will make a sloppy brick laying job look 10x better.
__________________
Mike
Original Owner
1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD
2000 Suzuki King Quad

Photos
StarGate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #9 (permalink)
OKC_Kent
WoW! it is H-O-T outside
BTK Expert
 
OKC_Kent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 586
Default

It's best to use something other than Muriatic acid.
I use any product containing Phosphoric Acid, like Naval Jelly, or certain Tile & Grout cleaners. Check your hardware store or Home Depot. Seal the openings with duct tape, pour in the bottle (you do not need to fill the whole tank) and drop in a length of chain, or a handful of nuts and bolts to break up the rust. Seal the top and shake it around checking until the tank is clean. Rinse it out good with water. Use a hair dryer in the top to dry it out and don't worry about the little flash rust that will happen. Swish it with light oil or fill with gas and it's good to go.
__________________
Kent
Oklahoma City, OK
'78 KZ 650 B2
'83 KZ 750 LTD F1 Shaft
'80 Suzuki GS450
OKC_Kent is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #10 (permalink)
rfb92345
Can't find time to ride
BTK Expert
 
rfb92345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hesperia, CA
Posts: 522
Default

If you are bound and determined to use Muratic acid........make sure that after you are done playing, that you nuetralize it with a strong base solution.
__________________
'96 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 1500

"Better to die living, than to live dying"
rfb92345 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #11 (permalink)
techy
Can't find time to ride
BTK Expert
 
techy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Louis subburb
Posts: 545
Default

I've used 20% muriatic and rinsed with paint thinner.
I used small gravel with sand to break off scale first.
Cream last.
techy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #12 (permalink)
86klf300guy
Clutch Cadet
BTK Expert
 
86klf300guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: some where in ohio
Posts: 389
Send a message via AIM to 86klf300guy
Default

i to had rust in my tanks but i did a way diferent repair than useing a chemical solution. i used metal b.bs that u use for a pellet gun i drop half a container in the tank after i removed the petcok and taped the hole up the i shook the tank for a while letting the b.bs hit the insides and then dumpped em out they were nasty rust color and the tank was cleaner then i did it agin with the rest of the b.bs with some denatured alcohol in with it to dry it up while cleaning it dumped out again and rinsed out with denatured alcohol let dry for a day then i mixed up some fibreglass resin with hardner and dumped in the tank to seal it up i swished it around the hole tank and dumped out the left overs let dry 1 day then did that step one more time and the tank was sealed from the inside removed the tape and chased the treads out for petcok due to a bit of the resin got on the threadsand i have not had rust come back now for over 2 years in my tanks that i have repaired hope this may be helpfull for some one that does not like harsh chemicals -corey
86klf300guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #13 (permalink)
RichLockyer
Patriot Guardian
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
RichLockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 17,085
Default

Yup... that's called "tumbling" and is done all the time on scuba tanks.
__________________
- Rich
2006 1600 Classic
Member CORVA, BRC
Patriot Guard Rider
RichLockyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Battery acid Pooker The Mechanics Corner 12 10-11-2007 02:24 AM
1981 ltd 550.. battery acid... austin_0_4 Kawasaki Streetbikes/Sportbikes 1 06-04-2007 09:57 PM
Wow, I hate the dealership... vaedyn Kawasaki Streetbikes/Sportbikes 14 04-21-2006 07:48 PM
battery acid zedx11 What I learned today 41 04-09-2006 02:30 PM
Rusty tank + Acid wash = Tank coating questions bmwe30is The Mechanics Corner 2 09-13-2005 05:12 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:55 PM.


powered by Beartooth Kawasaki
© 2008 KawasakiMotorcycle.org

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.0.0 ©2007, Crawlability, Inc.