Dave's Bobber Project

[Chadsquats]

I like it. What are your plans for the horn and signals? Are you going to leave the gap between the grip and clutch lever? I'm hoping to get at least one more good ride in, and then start tearing into my bike for the winter projects.

[goddarddr]

horn & signal's "don't make it GO" and not required by Tennessee
the gap will have to stay until I get a longer clutch cable.
front end is starting to look clean. got rid of the right box and installed a throttle housing for a single pull throttle cable. got rid of push throttle cable, the pull cable alone has plenty of snap back and "makes it Go" ( thanks Billy Mac & Alley Rat) next, re-rout the wires & mount start & kill switches to a new location. I'll post pic when done.
I bet the cold air blows soon in Oregon? TN has mild winters, usually have lots of ridin days,

[Chadsquats]

horn & signal's "don't make it GO" and not required by Tennessee

So, did you remove the front and back turn signal lamps?

I bet the cold air blows soon in Oregon?

It doesn't get too cold in the valley I live in, but we do get LOTS of rain. A bike with no front fender isn't exactly a good all-weather mode of transportation.

As always, I'm looking forward to pics of your progress.

[goddarddr]

I'm just gona pump my brake light and use my arm.
this forum is making me a bit crazy and I like it

[goddarddr]

doorbell starter button and a toggle dimmer switch mounted on the dash

[goddarddr]

cleaned up the Bars, removed both switch box's, Now have a single throttle with old skool grips, clutch cable and brake line, brake light wire.

[doughrek]

Looks good. How did you do the single throttle setup? Any pictures from the other side of the handle bars.. Looking from back to front? Good job on the bike.

[goddarddr]

Thanks Doughrek, I had same question 2 weeks ago, Billy mac and Alley rat gave me the answere. I didn't realize that one cable is all I needed I bought mine from justified defiance ebay store only $24 with grips, easy to install, alittle more work disconnecting push cable at he carb. I'll post another pic soon

[Shadders]

I have just sat here and read this whole thread (whilst I'm supposed to be at work!!) But I am just so hooked on these projects.

This bike looks fantastic, I have had mine just over a month now and every day I get a new idea off this forum of what I want to do. Its just the seat mount I'm concerned with at the moment. Everyone on here seems to do something different. I have also thought about moving the battery but still hide it behind the side casing.

As for the bars, are you not going to use indicators at all now?? I have just fitted 12" apes on 4" risers and had all my cables/wires extended. But hate all the wiring now!

[goddarddr]

I hear you. I have learned so much from those who love to "How To" and share it on this forum, I send a special thanks to Skitzo, IMB4U, Billy Mac, Alley Rat,for the spark.
there are pics of my seat mount on this thread. I'm not happy with it, the position feels right but front mount still needs some work. I like the west eagle seat mount. I have pic of a mock up of the battery in the hole on the right side, it will fit, need some welding,
I took my signals off, I'm going for the bare bones look. my next move is to move the ignitor and fuse box to right side cover. I like the look of the exposed swing arm. Have Fun and Keep creating. let me know if I can help.
Dave

[Shadders]

Zero has used a seat kit from Blue Collar Bobbers, which looks good but I think it still leaves the back open, so I would need to cover that or like you say move the fuse box etc to the side cover....

I just need to do something as even though I'm a short arse, mounting the seat off the original seat location bracket means I'm too far forward. I'll figure something out, but like you said, its all experience.

At least being on here we are not on our own, respect to Skitzo, IMB4U, Billy Mac, Alley Rat etc for all the information they give us on here!! ha ha

[goddarddr]

I am short also, my bike is lowered 3" rear and just lowered the front 3" I am flat footing now. my bracket moved the seat 1.5" up from the cross brace and back 1.5" = a level position. Chad squats and Billy Mac made smart brackets also. here is a pic of my bracket

[goddarddr]

the Bare Bones Look
my Inspiration : )

[Shadders]

I am short also, my bike is lowered 3" rear and just lowered the front 3" I am flat footing now. my bracket moved the seat 1.5" up from the cross brace and back 1.5" = a level position. Chad squats and Billy Mac made smart brackets also. here is a pic of my bracket

I just can't leave my battery etc un covered, living in the UK its not practical (there is a reason its green). If its not raining, its just about to, so I need have this covered up as I use my bikes all year round. It currently has Duct tape and a plastic bag. Don't think thats classed as Old School...

[Danase]

Zero has used a seat kit from Blue Collar Bobbers, which looks good but I think it still leaves the back open, so I would need to cover that or like you say move the fuse box etc to the side cover....

I just need to do something as even though I'm a short arse, mounting the seat off the original seat location bracket means I'm too far forward. I'll figure something out, but like you said, its all experience.

At least being on here we are not on our own, respect to Skitzo, IMB4U, Billy Mac, Alley Rat etc for all the information they give us on here!! ha ha

The back should not really be open on the BCB kit because the items are still in the plastic battery / electrical tray.

Maybe you just need a bigger seat? I'm using a 16" La Rosa and it's a perfect fit. Puts me a little lower to the ground, which I like but about the same distance from the tank as the stock seat.

[IMB4U]

One simple way to mount the seat is to take the mounting bracket that comes with the seat (I am working with an Ulitma solo) and drill a whole in it so you can screw it in to the lower tank mount. Then take the rear bolt set it on the cross beam for the stock seat and take a washer and tighten the nut till it pulls the seat tight enough to the frame that it wont move. I have had mine bikes mounted like that for 2 years now with out movement. This allows for the lowest seat height (for the short guys), covers the battery and you dont have to make any brackets.

[goddarddr]

thanks Steve for posting, I have had several seat mounting questions lately. I found a level seat position to be comfortable for me. I am thinking about changing mine to a spring mount, I like the look.
Dave

[goddarddr]

this weekend spent some with the wiring harness. eliminate the wires that not using and extend the wires that are needed to move the fuse box and ignitor to the right toolbox and cut away the plastic they mount to. it's tidious, there is hellofalot of wires, I like the look of the exposed swing arm. got the connectors moved to the tool box today, now i need to clean up, wrap up, mount up, cut up and hopefully start up.

[Danase]

this weekend spent some with the wiring harness. eliminate the wires that not using and extend the wires that are needed to move the fuse box and ignitor to the right toolbox and cut away the plastic they mount to. it's tidious, there is hellofalot of wires, I like the look of the exposed swing arm. got the connectors moved to the tool box today, now i need to clean up, wrap up, mount up, cut up and hopefully start up.

I'm going to work on this over the winter as well. Show us some pics!

The reason I want to move stuff is because I have less room than the regular Vulcans under my seat and the huge wire harness is in my way from making a nice plate to finish off the look of the seat.

[Chadsquats]

now i need to clean up, wrap up, mount up, cut up and hopefully start up.

Oh man, I remember getting done after moving all those wires and wondering if the bike would start and run. I held my breath and pushed the starter button. HUGE exhale of relief when it fired up. Good luck