Constrictor's Caddman Air Mod Tutorial (56k Warning)
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Thread: Constrictor's Caddman Air Mod Tutorial (56k Warning)

  1. #181
    Newbie chiltech500's Avatar
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    Default ICS clarification help

    Thanks to all the innovators for this treasure trove of good info. Just bought a used 03 meanie (full stock) and through past experience did my website reading on all your mods. All very logical and economical!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    To clarify my understanding:

    (1)The ICS can be removed to get rid of "annoying" ticking sound?

    That ticking isn't present at higher temps when the solenoids don't need to kick in - but the air mod will lower the air temp and thus the solenoids are useful.

    (2)What temp range with the airbox mod can you expect to operate without the ICS without further mods???

    Bending the tabs and repositioning the solenoids allows the inner lip of the filter to clear the solenoids so that a 9" filter is useable - yes?

    Thanks so much for all your work and help with my questions.

    Bernie

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  3. #182
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiltech500 View Post
    (1)The ICS can be removed to get rid of "annoying" ticking sound?
    That ticking isn't present at higher temps when the solenoids don't need to kick in - but the air mod will lower the air temp and thus the solenoids are useful.
    Yes
    (2)What temp range with the airbox mod can you expect to operate without the ICS without further mods???
    Not exactly sure... it is above "room temp". If you remove them and properly adjust the idle on a warm engine to 950rpm, once ambient temp drops to below 65-70, you will not be able to keep it running cold without doing the high idle mod (putting a bushing over the high idle cam) since the "choke" knob no longer raises the idle enough.
    Either that, or a throttle lock to hold RPM while it warms up.

    Personally, I put the things back in. I'm deaf in my right ear, so they don't bug me, and cold starts are much nicer with them. Without them it reminds me of the carb'd engine on my dirtbike.
    Bending the tabs and repositioning the solenoids allows the inner lip of the filter to clear the solenoids so that a 9" filter is useable - yes?
    Correct.
    - Rich
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  4. #183
    Newbie chiltech500's Avatar
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    thanks rich

    I've done the mod and it sounds wonderful with the improved intake and no ticking. Left the solenoids so they can just be plugged back in at lower temps.

    very curious what happens when the temps drop to riding at 50 degrees or so.

    I've ordered the K&N just because I'm concerned about water because I ride on longer trips and don't want to haver to park it just because there's rain (or washing the bike).
    Last edited by chiltech500; 07-29-2007 at 04:58 PM.

  5. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by eglass64 View Post
    I did it, took a whole hour, I needed to rejet I put in a 140 from a dynojet kit. So far no popping. i need to ride it a little more to know more, but it's kinda raining here. I will keep posting on this mod. For those who are wondering I didnt do anything with the left side its all stock including crossover tube. If I need to convert it back , all I have to do is put stock cover back on.
    i have an 05 meanstreak. today i did the caddman thing. right side. plugged the reed. also the vacume lines for idle soulinoids, as i removed them. the bike has allready v&h bigshots,and power commander 3. no more popping! idles smooth. the qwestion: will my power commander automatically adjust to the increased air? or do i /should i have it re-mapped? runs smooth. thanks.

  6. #185
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    The PC will need a remap.
    Without going to a dyno, you could get away with a good known map for the Bigshots and a BAK or Hurricane intake.
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  7. #186
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    thanks,rich. i rode it to work today. ran like a bat out of hell. i noticed no pinging. a good sign. will take it in to dealler. they have a dyno. charge is 88. do you think that (as well as engiene safety), ill notice another increase in power? im sure after its mapped out again, i wont have to re-do it after i switch to a k&n element. probably not a small bit of diff there..? i have eliminated the turn signals on my meanie. went with moving plate to left shock,and leds for the turn signals. really looks cool now. i noticed two vacum lines hanging loose under left side cover that house the pc. wonder what they are? or were. they are not plugged..odd. rob

  8. #187
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    I don't think the K&N will make enough of a difference to matter.
    If it's not pinging or running hot, it may be fine now... in general, with just pipes you would not need a fuel processor.

    If the bike is a California model, the left side cover originally contained the charcoal vapor cannister. One line is coming from the vapor separator, the other goes to the intake manifold, however, that would be a vacuum leak and impact operation, so it's probably not the case (unless it's plugged internally).

    There are three lines that normally hang below the swingarm by the oil filter... the fuel vent, coolant recovery tank overflow, and the battery vent (California bikes will only have two).
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  9. #188
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    hi again,rich! first, i want to thank you for your feedback. yes, my bike is a cal model. i bought it this last spring for 7700. it had 3k miles on it. i changed the oil to 20-50 amzoil. i read good things on it. my woman traded in her 04 600 honda scooter for a 05 sportster. i had v&h slipons added/re-jet/arlen ness big sucker air kit. amazing how the epa chokes our bikes to near death! i went to pc's website, and downloaded the map you mentioned. now, if i only new how to upload it to my pc on bike....do you know of any other power mods for the meanie? i know i can get a single fire ignition for marlas sportster...hey. i have been told the suzuki m109 is way powerfull. scary powerfull. hatge the looks of it. maybe the reason my bike is running so good, is the mention in the caddman article that since the air temp sensor is now exposed to cold air, the bikesbrain/pc,automatically adds more fuel? i think i will t ake it in,tho, to make sure. dont want to hurt my bike. think ill do it on friday. im in wash here. getting cooler..rob

  10. #189
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    The 109 is scary powerful because it's almost as big as the V2K in a very light package

    Other than pipes, intake, and a fuel processor, there really isn't much that can be done to the Vulcan engines without going to a big-bore kit or changing out the cams.
    I'm not sure that a big bore kit is available for the 1600.
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  11. #190
    ...but it was on sale! Forum Supporter dave007's Avatar
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    What, if anything, is the relationship between stuffing the marble in the hose behind the ICS and disconnecting the ICS? If not disconnecting the ICS, do you still need to marble that hose?
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  12. #191
    2 year old in the house! BTK Expert furious70's Avatar
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    no relation really. The marble in the hose is to block air to the reed valves which inject air into the exhaust stream to clean emissions but also causes the cackling/backfiring/burble.
    The ICS's click while operating while the bike comes up to operating temp. I found my bike didn't like the ICS's unplugged at all, wouldn't even pretend to run cold without the 'choke' knob way out.
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  13. #192
    ...but it was on sale! Forum Supporter dave007's Avatar
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    I assume the need to marble is related to the air intake modification. I don't get any backfiring now (with stock intake), but I assume if I didn't marble I would likely get the backfiring?
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  14. #193
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    Marbling is related to aftermarket pipes.
    The stock mufflers tend to silence any popping on decel that might happen, but aftermarket pipes will pop as if you had an exhaust leak... and in practicality, you do.
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  15. #194
    ...but it was on sale! Forum Supporter dave007's Avatar
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    Got it, thanks Rich. That makes sense. I've also read some stuff about blow back and possibly needing to use a crankcase breather. Any info on doing that?
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  16. #195
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    I haven't had any issues on mine. Seems to be more of a 1500 issue, or perhaps a high-mileage issue, not really sure.

    15k and my airbox is dry and I don't use any oil, even on extended road trips.
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  17. #196
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    rev limiter? my bike have one of these? isent it suposed to stop further progeress up the rpmline, after a certain point? i have not noticed anything shutting me down. although i havent reved it up past 5500. figure it makes more power below that. or? havent had very good weather since i had it remapped. so havent had time to play with it. jsut know its a lot hotter now! keeps pulling when it used to kind of fade out..enjoy your weekend. whats patriot thing? you a border patrol? cool if u are. we have to wake up america, tho the great sellout. savage is right. later.rob

  18. #197
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    Rev limiter is at about 6k.
    Peak torque is around 2800 or so, peak HP is at around 5200 (maybe a bit higher for the Meanie).

    Factory recommended shift points have you shifting at about 2500... which makes no sense because a 70mph cruise in 5th is around 3k.
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  19. #198
    Patriot Guardian Extreme Forum Supporter RichLockyer's Avatar
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    Just read of a GREAT idea to mod the Caddmann mod.

    Anyone who has done the Caddmann has to deal with one of two issues...
    The idle control solenoids drive you nuts with their clacking... or you remove them and have to deal with idle problems in cooler weather.

    One of the guys on the Delphi forum had a great idea that he had used on his BAK, but it would work even easier on the Caddmann:

    Relocate the ICS to the left side. Buy some tubing... enough to cross between the cylinders 4 or 5 times, and some wire.
    Extend the wiring harness so it is long enough to pass to the left side through the tunnel, and do the same with the tubing.
    Put the solenoids under the left side cover, and pack the area with foam to deaden the sound.

    The engine is drawing all of it's air from the right side anyways... the left half of the mod is only for aesthetics and to avoid having to block off the right side backplate where the tunnel enters.

    Just make sure that you keep the polarity on the wiring, as well as which one goes to the front cylinder and which one goes to the rear cylinder straight so you don't reverse something.

    And as mentioned in the original mod... don't short the wires or you'll blow your EFI fuse.

    I would recommend "capping" the tunnel on the left side to avoid any possibility of deteriorated foam being pulled into the intake.



    In the case of the BAK or Thunder kits, it seems like the guys are mounting the solenoids under the seat or perhaps under the left side cover, but keep in mind that the solenoids feed directly to the intake, so they should be getting filtered air.
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  20. #199
    Top Gear Full Throttle BTK Expert
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    I just completed the Caddman mod. I disconnected the solenoids. It was 36 degrees outside and no idle problems thus far. Also reconnected my FI2000R fuel processor while doing all of this. The mod sure lets my meanie get some air now. Awesome results here!
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  21. #200
    Moto-Nerd BTK Intermediate CaddmannQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichLockyer View Post
    ...The engine is drawing all of it's air from the right side anyways... the left half of the mod is only for aesthetics and to avoid having to block off the right side backplate where the tunnel enters....
    Sorta true. The right side filter will plug up first, and as it does lost air will be replaced by the left filter. It's rather dusty here, but I never worry about plugging up the filters.

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