Constrictor's Caddman Air Mod Tutorial (56k Warning)

[RampRat]

Excellent post and pictures!!!!!!!!!

[Constrictor]

Over last weekend, I completed my first full tank of BP Premium gas after doing this mod, and my around town fuel economy was 40.9 MPG. I never really got much more than 40 MPG anyway, so I'd say that this mod hasn't affected my fuel economy in any noticeable way, which is good news to me!

[Plato]

Does the standard temp sensor only detect the air temp as it travels from the left side to the right ? Or does it pick up the temp at the last point in its pathway ?

What I'm getting at is the fact that with the new right side filter of the Caddman mod installed there is a great increase of air and most of it comes from the right side which is already gonna be cooler than the stock setup.

It just occurs to me that if the sensor itself was located to pickup the temp of the new right side air flow you might not need to trick the sensor with the resistor mod...

What am I missing...?

[Constrictor]

Your theory is probably correct. Since the temp sensor only measures at the exact point in the stream where it is located, it is very possible that in a completely stock setup, the air is heated up by going through the left filter and through the middle of the engine to the right side. So in theory, adding the filter on the right side already is cooling down the air.

However, Kawasaki set these bikes to lean from the getgo, so by adding the extra air, you still need a way to boost the amount of fuel going into the engine. Tricking the temp sensor is just a cheap way to do it. The proper way is still to get a PCIII or some other mod that does it the right way, but as a temporary workaround, the resistor mod will help.

I would strongly advise anyone who does this mod (or any air mod) to not run their bike without somehow adjusting the fuel mixtures.

[Plato]

Originally Posted by Constrictor

...However, Kawasaki set these bikes to lean from the getgo, so by adding the extra air, you still need a way to boost the amount of fuel going into the engine. Tricking the temp sensor is just a cheap way to do it. The proper way is still to get a PCIII or some other mod that does it the right way, but as a temporary workaround, the resistor mod will help...

I like cheap And I'm sure the resistor mod will help.

It was just a thought I had when I first read about the resistor mod on Gadget's sight. If a low cost mod allows the bike to get more cool air it would help to relocate the sensor to pick up that change. Then the additional resistor adds to that effect.

[bross]

Thanks strictor and caddman, I've been running a K&N for awhile now and just did the resistor mod so will see how it runs. Great right up, made it a very simple mod.

[breath-easy]

Originally Posted by Constrictor

Your throttle bodies are on the right side of the bike. The air will get sucked into your engine using the path of least resistance, which means that almost all of the air that gets sucked into the throttle bodies will now come from the right side of the bike, as opposed to stock where it comes from the left, and has to go through the cross over tube.

Although the crossover tube is still in place, it is basically not used anymore. You could do this whole mod without even putting a filter on the left side and blocking off the crossover tube altogether and you would be getting about the same amount of air. Having the crossover tube still in place is just there to make it easy to install, and having the filter on the left side is just there for looks.

I am the proud new owner of a 2002 Gold Mean Streak. Bought it on Ebay with 1800 Miles for $6200.00. In the month I was waiting for the ###%%%?? guy I bought it from to get me the title I have read you posts and those of others with great interest. This brings me to my questions. I would like to do the air mod you did such a good job of explaining and photographing. It seems from my reading of the Coyote version that the same stock air box is used on the mean streak. If this is true and I use the Moroso air cleaner (8.5 inch) and the K & N filters for the same, do I need the block off plate on the left side?

[Constrictor]

Originally Posted by breath-easy

I am the proud new owner of a 2002 Gold Mean Streak. Bought it on Ebay with 1800 Miles for $6200.00. In the month I was waiting for the ###%%%?? guy I bought it from to get me the title I have read you posts and those of others with great interest. This brings me to my questions. I would like to do the air mod you did such a good job of explaining and photographing. It seems from my reading of the Coyote version that the same stock air box is used on the mean streak. If this is true and I use the Moroso air cleaner (8.5 inch) and the K & N filters for the same, do I need the block off plate on the left side?

I am not 100% sure what you are trying to ask, but if I am guessing you are trying to use an aftermarket version of the stock filter? If so, then no, you would not need a block off plate, however, it wouldn't look good because the outer backing plate is 9" around. You COULD put a smaller filter in and a smaller lid in there, but it woudl look goofy.

I highly recommend sticking with a filter the size of the Spectre one to keep the outer and inner lids looking the same size.

[breath-easy]

I was reeferring to the filters used on the Coyote version of this modification on the Gadget web site under the heading "Bolt on's and Mods (harder)

[Constrictor]

Sorry, I am not familiar with that mod.

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by breath-easy

I was reeferring to the filters used on the Coyote version of this modification on the Gadget web site under the heading "Bolt on's and Mods (harder)

The Coyote Kit predates my own mod by quite some time, and is where I got my initial impulse to mod the intake. It uses a filter that is about the same size as mine.

The essential difference is that Coyote removed the left filter assembly and plastic crossover duct completely, and he uses just the right filter. This costs less, weighs less, and cleans up the bike a bit, but is twice the work to do, and can never be put back to stock without considerable effort and expense.

I was concerned about two things when I first developed this mod. I didn't want hassles with the warranty or (potential) smog tests or fix-it tickets for noise abatement, so I came up with something that is easy to return to stock, should I ever need to take the bike in.

Due to the wonderful reliability of my 2004 Nomad, it never did go back to the dealer once durring the warranty period (nor since) and due to the fact that our new Governator is an avid motorcyclist, I see little chance of smog checks for motorcycles in the near future.

So ultimately, I could have just done the Coyote kit after all, but still I may sell the bike some day. In that case it will be returned to 100% stock, the accessories sold off on eBay, and not muc effort will be involved in the restoration.

Sincerely,
CaddmannQ
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

[joecruiser]

Just read this post. I considered going the after market route but they are kind of 'spensive. Plus you have to demolish your stock air intake. After seeing your post, I'm convinced to go with the Caddmann mod- for a fully reversible solution. I've read the Gadget set of instructions, but you did a better job with the pictures. I actually understood it. As soon as I get my TFI installed, I’ll be doing the Caddmann mod- Thx a million..

[Xlr8n]

joe- I left the stock filter in place inside of the new left filter & cover to eliminate any modification of the stock system at all. I'm sure it cuts down on flow from that side, but the right side will provide all the air the bike needs, especially if you use K&N filters.

[Constrictor]

Originally Posted by Xlr8n

joe- I left the stock filter in place inside of the new left filter & cover to eliminate any modification of the stock system at all. I'm sure it cuts down on flow from that side, but the right side will provide all the air the bike needs, especially if you use K&N filters.

Xlr8n is right that having both filters on the left side adds almost no restriction since 99% of the air will come from the right side of the engine.

However, I recommend against doing this using the original Spectre filters. If you use a K&N filter, it will work fine because the K&Ns are a little bit thicker and push the lid farther away from the backing plate giving the stock filter more room since it is bigger.

If you try to squeeze both the stock filter and the Spectre filter under that lid, you'll be squishing the stock filter, causing the Spectre lid to bow out which would not make a tight seal against the Spectre filters.

I tried this on mine and wasnt satisfied with the fit against the Spectre filter. I am convinced that that even a 1mm thicker filter would do the trick, however.

[Xlr8n]

It all depends on the filter in the spectre kit. I have got three different filters in those kits and all are manufactured differently with different wire mesh and different rubber design on the seal end. I also have noticed the lip on the lid comes in different thickeness' depending on the supplier. All sold under the Spectre name in the same packaging. Two of my filter types work fine with the stock filter underneath, so check it out before you use it. I used a small flashlight that I turned on and put inside the filter and turned the lights out in the garage to check for any leaks around the filter and baseplate.

[Constrictor]

Originally Posted by Xlr8n

It all depends on the filter in the spectre kit. I have got three different filters in those kits and all are manufactured differently with different wire mesh and different rubber design on the seal end. I also have noticed the lip on the lid comes in different thickeness' depending on the supplier. All sold under the Spectre name in the same packaging. Two of my filter types work fine with the stock filter underneath, so check it out before you use it. I used a small flashlight that I turned on and put inside the filter and turned the lights out in the garage to check for any leaks around the filter and baseplate.

Good to know. I had a feeling that Spectre was a "parts bin" type company anyhow.

I guess the official verdict is "your mileage may vary" regarding using the stock filter and the Spectre filter at the same time.

At the very least, the K&Ns definitely work all of the time!

[KawiKen]

So here is a couple of questions for you all:

I have a stock 02 1500 carberated classic. Can I assume that the resisitor mod in Constrictor's walk-through is not needed as I do not have fuel injection?

What other changes would I need to keep in mind on this mod with respect to the carb'd setup? I assume I would need to rejet - Anyone have any reccomendations on re-jet sizes and needle settings? How scary is the re-jet to do?

I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed , but this looks pretty straight forward and I love the look. I am thinking this mod along with some HK fatties is the hot ticket for me.

[Spok]

Originally Posted by KawiKen

So here is a couple of questions for you all:

I have a stock 02 1500 carberated classic. Can I assume that the resisitor mod in Constrictor's walk-through is not needed as I do not have fuel injection?

What other changes would I need to keep in mind on this mod with respect to the carb'd setup? I assume I would need to rejet - Anyone have any reccomendations on re-jet sizes and needle settings? How scary is the re-jet to do?

I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed , but this looks pretty straight forward and I love the look. I am thinking this mod along with some HK fatties is the hot ticket for me.

Ken, I did the caddmann on my 04 carb'd 1500. remove the rigth side cover, replace with caddmann covers, remove the left side,block off corssover tube, or not, put caddmann covers back on...thats it.

[Constrictor]

Ken, you are correct. The resistor mod is an FI only step. I guess I should have put that in the walkthrough, I will edit it.

Carbed bikes can adjust the fuel/air mixture mechanically by rejetting. FI bikes need to do it electronically with a tuner, or a resistor which falsely changes it.

[KawiKen]

Spock Said -
remove the rigth side cover, replace with caddmann covers, remove the left side,block off corssover tube, or not, put caddmann covers back on...thats it

Spok, Did you rejet at all? I know you have aftermarket pipes, just curious if you rejetted when you re-piped or did the Caddmann? If the vulcans run lean from the factory, isn't cramming more air into them going to make them even leaner?

Thanks for your input!