Constrictor's Caddman Air Mod Tutorial (56k Warning)

[Constrictor]

Wow, I hadn't seen this thread in a while and just thought it sunk into thread obscurity, but little did I know it was thriving in another forum!

I'm glad that my work documenting Caddman's great work is still helping people!

[demon_668]

I'm planning on doing this soon and had some questions (now that it's been out for a while)...

1. I couldn't find any 1/4 Watt resistors at my local Radio Shack, would using 1/2 Watt 680 ohm work? Gadget's page mentions using 1/4 or 1/8 Watt...
2. I'm not planning on doing both sides, and will probably just block off the left side "tunnel". I like the stock look (symmetrical) of having both covers being the same size, which brings up using the Thunder Mtn bracket ($$$). Since this is a low cost project, I was thinking of making a new "baseplate" for the filter on the right side out of plexi (make it flat) so I can re-use the cover, but have approx 1 - 1 1/2 " of filter "breathing room" next to the engine. Has anyone done anything like this? (on the cheap bracket/baseplate for the filter element)
3. Again, it's mentioned on Gadget's page that the resistor should be a "temporary fix for pinging". Has anyone put in the resistor and left it, or have you ripped it out and put in a FI Module later on? Just wondering if there are any long-term issues with leaving the resistor on, or if I should plan on getting a module later on. (not planning on changing the pipes anytime soon, noise ordinance in Denver )

06 Meanie, I'll be getting a K&N filter for this project...

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by demon_668

I'm planning on doing this soon and had some questions (now that it's been out for a while)...

1. I couldn't find any 1/4 Watt resistors at my local Radio Shack, would using 1/2 Watt 680 ohm work? Gadget's page mentions using 1/4 or 1/8 Watt...

1/2 watt is OK. It's just larger than necessary, so harder to hide.

2. I'm not planning on doing both sides, and will probably just block off the left side "tunnel". I like the stock look (symmetrical) of having both covers being the same size, which brings up using the Thunder Mtn bracket ($$$). Since this is a low cost project, I was thinking of making a new "baseplate" for the filter on the right side out of plexi (make it flat) so I can re-use the cover, but have approx 1 - 1 1/2 " of filter "breathing room" next to the engine. Has anyone done anything like this? (on the cheap bracket/baseplate for the filter element)

I don't know, but you'll have to make access for the breather (or relocate it) and the temp sensor (or relocate it) and the solenoids (or remove them). All that stuff runs through the backing plate.

3. Again, it's mentioned on Gadget's page that the resistor should be a "temporary fix for pinging". Has anyone put in the resistor and left it, or have you ripped it out and put in a FI Module later on? Just wondering if there are any long-term issues with leaving the resistor on, or if I should plan on getting a module later on. (not planning on changing the pipes anytime soon, noise ordinance in Denver )

I haven't heard any problems with long term use of the resistor mod, but being that you are in Denver and aren't modifying pipes, I'd tend to think you won't need it anyway. Just changing the intake without changing pipes won't do much for the bike & probably isn't worth bothering with.

Also, opening the intake will increase noise, though I don't know if the cops would notice it or not, but the bike will get louder.

06 Meanie, I'll be getting a K&N filter for this project...

I've ridden up to 10,000 ft. elev. with my modified Nomad, alongside a friend's stock Nomad, and when you get to those altitudes any power difference is highly mitigated by the loss of oxygen.

[demon_668]

Thanks for the info Caddmann, it's nice to hear things right from the source . My understanding is that Kawi ships bikes out that are running on the "lean" side. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm understanding lean to be more air than fuel. If this is the case, wouldn't getting more air in the mix with this mod make it even "leaner" (if that's a word, lol)? I realize that the stock pipes will be the bottleneck, but there's nothing I can really do about that now. I'd just like to be able to squeeze out as much as I can without getting in trouble with the PD. (Technically, as long as my stock pipes are on and not drilled out, I'm OK, so I may gut the goat belly as a stealth way to improve flow... ) I know a lot of people have mentioned not to bother with any air/FI mods without aftermarket pipes, and I understand why. I'm not going for the additional horsepower, etc, I just want to make it run like it's supposed to (and cooler) if possible.

Thanks again for the info, if I end up making a custom plate I'll make sure to post pics for everyone.

[CaddmannQ]

Yes, lean means too much air or not enough fuel, and bikes actually tend to run richer at high altitude (less oxygen in the air) but frankly I think that half the pinging problem is in the ignition timing & that you can't really adjust AFAIK.

If your bike is pinging now, then it may ping a bit worse if you mod the intake and do the goat belly as well, but doing both of these things will definately make a little more noise. Maybe not enough to get you busted, but much depends on how you work the throttle.

Bear in mind that the resistor mod isn't as precise as a TFI and that's not as precise as a properly tuned PC-III, so considering your altitude a PC-III might be the best choice, if there's a good dynotuner in your area.

[KingJames]

Caddman, I am thinking about doing this mod (I was headed out the door to get parts when I checked the post for the size of the resistor when I saw the post had grown) and it seems that I may have the wrong idea about this. I was thinking of doing this and leaving it, but it sounds like maybe you don't think that would be the way to go?

[KingJames]

Please keep in mind that I come from the world of snowmobiles and with aluminum pistons you get about 3 seconds of detonation before a piston melts down so perhaps detonation on the bike scares me more than it should.

[CaddmannQ]

Well, it's not a 2-stroke.

But it all depends on what you're willing to live with and what you're willing to spend.

Also, there is definately some variation between bikes. Mass produced machines with the tolerances for mixture, cam timing, and spark advance set so close to the limits for EPA purposes are bound to have variations that affect each bike differently. Keep that in mind when you read "this works fine on my bike". It might not work the same on yours. Or it might work better.

No way for me to tell from here.

[KingJames]

Are you trying to tell me that life is lived in the grey area and your not offering a 100% replacement of the bike guarentee.

[demon_668]

Thanks again for the info... Just so I have my Nerd to Geek translator working correctly ...
The air mod increases air flow, but the stock pipes will restrict the flow through the engine. Even if the mod allows more air to be drawn in, it won't because the engine can't "push it out" fast enough. Allowing the engine to draw more air may result in a little, if any, improvement to performance, but will make the stock system a little louder.
The resistor mod is similar, but replace "air" with "fuel", and tell the same story (more or less). Since the stock pipes are so restrictive, adding more fuel (even with additional air available) won't improve performance, and could possibly cause the engine to run rich.
Please excuse the slowness, I is a Network guy and sometimes words go by too fast

Sounds like I may be out the $1.07 for the resistors, but the air mod itself might be worth it for the noise

[furious70]

well, according to the dyno charts, the Caddmann mod on stock pipes still netted 7hp (more than 10% improvement) and 4ftlbs and made the midrange fatter. I see no reason not to do the intake side in relation to the exhaust you're running. After looking at what the air has to squirm through to get into the motor in these pics vs. what the stock exhaust looks like, The dyno shows exactly what I'd expect.

Separate question: if you buy the Thunder or other aftermarket kit that uses adaptor backplates, are you forced to lose the IAC's? I ride in weather down to 40*, and bought a F.I. on purpose because of the always start/always idle aspect.
I've got the PCIII and V&H straightshots on my bike, just trying to decide what to do for an airkit. I'm not sure I'm in love with the look of the Caddmann kit on the Mean Streak. Also, do the aircleaners stick out more than the stock ones? The guides seem to say not really, but I have the Kawasaki wrap around crash bar on my bike so I need to make sure it'll all fit.

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by KingJames

Are you trying to tell me that life is lived in the grey area and your not offering a 100% replacement of the bike guarentee.

Just got back from a little vacation...

And YES! If you're not satisfied with the results we offer a full 100% replacement of the bike guarantee.

You send me the damaged Vulcan freight pre-paid, and we'll replace it with this beautiful hand sewn stuffed gopher, made by the residents of the Shady Rest Home for Aged Bikers. (I'm told that the drool stains simply add to the charm and character of this delightful collectible dust catcher.)

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by demon_668

Thanks again for the info... Just so I have my Nerd to Geek translator working correctly ...
The air mod increases air flow, but the stock pipes will restrict the flow through the engine. Even if the mod allows more air to be drawn in, it won't because the engine can't "push it out" fast enough. Allowing the engine to draw more air may result in a little, if any, improvement to performance, but will make the stock system a little louder.
The resistor mod is similar, but replace "air" with "fuel", and tell the same story (more or less). Since the stock pipes are so restrictive, adding more fuel (even with additional air available) won't improve performance, and could possibly cause the engine to run rich.
Please excuse the slowness, I is a Network guy and sometimes words go by too fast

Sounds like I may be out the $1.07 for the resistors, but the air mod itself might be worth it for the noise

If your bike runs lean and is pinging now, then it won't hurt at all to do the resistor mod & will likely help the engine live longer. This is true even if you don't touch anything else.

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by furious70

well, according to the dyno charts, the Caddmann mod on stock pipes still netted 7hp (more than 10% improvement) and 4ftlbs and made the midrange fatter. I see no reason not to do the intake side in relation to the exhaust you're running. After looking at what the air has to squirm through to get into the motor in these pics vs. what the stock exhaust looks like, The dyno shows exactly what I'd expect.

Separate question: if you buy the Thunder or other aftermarket kit that uses adaptor backplates, are you forced to lose the IAC's? I ride in weather down to 40*, and bought a F.I. on purpose because of the always start/always idle aspect.
I've got the PCIII and V&H straightshots on my bike, just trying to decide what to do for an airkit. I'm not sure I'm in love with the look of the Caddmann kit on the Mean Streak. Also, do the aircleaners stick out more than the stock ones? The guides seem to say not really, but I have the Kawasaki wrap around crash bar on my bike so I need to make sure it'll all fit.

REALLY? 7 hp? I haven't seen this test anywhere. Were those stock pipes with the stock goat belly unmodified as well? Nomad Classic? Meanie? What year? Where do I find a copy of this dyno chart?

Overall, the filters only stick out a little more than stock. This is evidenced by the fact that the stock screw won't be long enough for the new covers.

I can't imagine it would interfere with the crash bars unless you now have less that 1/2" clearance to the stock covers.

[Constrictor]

I still have the 680 ohm resister in my bike since I posted this mod, and the bike still runs well. I have checked the plugs only once, but they showed no signs of running lean or rich.

Caddman made an excellent point though, what works on one bike in one climate in one altitude, etc might not work for someone else. This is definitely something you should keep an eye on if you plan on leaving it long term.

And the resistors I bought came in packs of 6, so I still have 5 left. If anyone needs one, just give me your mailing address and I can mail you one of my extras. I dont think I'll be doing any more Caddman mods any time soon!

[furious70]

This one that's already been shown in this thread:
http://www.gadgetjq.com/nomad_dyno_graph.jpg

unless I'm having a brain fart, stock pipe to stock pipe, only change was your intake mod and the 01 nomad made 7hp more, 54.32 to 61.97. The article does say the bread box was defeated to some extent.

I probably have 1-1.5" of clearance tween the crash bar and the air cleaner today, so that should be enough. I think I'll like the look with the K&N or red knock off filters. The bright white plain filters stand out too much for my tastes. I might become the newest member this weekend if I can find the parts and can sneak a little time.

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by furious70

This one that's already been shown in this thread:
http://www.gadgetjq.com/nomad_dyno_graph.jpg

unless I'm having a brain fart, stock pipe to stock pipe, only change was your intake mod and the 01 nomad made 7hp more, 54.32 to 61.97. The article does say the bread box was defeated to some extent.

I probably have 1-1.5" of clearance tween the crash bar and the air cleaner today, so that should be enough. I think I'll like the look with the K&N or red knock off filters. The bright white plain filters stand out too much for my tastes. I might become the newest member this weekend if I can find the parts and can sneak a little time.

Ahh, yes, The Famous Gadget Goat Belly mod...

As I recall, Gadget never ran a stock baseline. Where his chart says "stock exhaust" it's not truely stock but had been modified. Unfortunately he never tested the Caddmann with the Baggers. (lots of other folks have though.)

Gadget's increase in HP is actually 14% once he mounts the Caddmann and 25% once the Baggers & Thunder are installed.

But things do work in combination here, and you can see that his modified exhaust wasn't doing much when the stock intake was on. (My bike didn't do much just by fitting the TFI and Baggers. I had to change the intake before any real usable HP developed.) The modded goat belly does become a factor as soon as the intake was modded.

Anyhow, I'm, running filter elements that are 1 13/16" thick. You shouldn't hit the crash bars unless you use filters over 2 1/4" thick.

[furious70]

Ah, yes the labels on the chart are a bit deceiving then. From what I've read in all this (new to it this week), it appears that your intake mod and stock pipes should give a better hp jump than a stock intake box and aftermarket pipes, which is what somebody was wondering about, I think =).

To talk about demon_668's post: It's not just a matter of 'pulling air in' and being able to 'push it out'. A 1500cc motor is going to get the air it needs to fill the cylinders every firing cycle, and it will release that air as well out the exhaust. The airkit won't magically give it 'more air' in a volume sense. What it will do however, is help the engine receive air that is denser, since the air isn't being forced through the stock narrow intake tract (pressure and heat are enemies to density on the other side of the bottleneck). The intake mod is going to make the engine more efficient at getting the air it needs. While perhaps hard to measure seat of the pants, rolling on the throttle to pass or go up a hill should take less 'roll', because with the air much more available to the motor you don't need to open the throttle blades as far to create the pressure drop necessary to draw air through the inhibited stock intake tract. Without the fuel controller, your bike may not make a lot more HP, but it should feel like it makes it 'easier', with a notable fat mid range. In a couple places the fuel maps actually take fuel out, so the stock F.I. would feel strong at 2500-3000 with the Caddmann (on a MS at least), lay over from being lean in the mid, then go strong again at the top (looking at the map I'm running)
The extra fuel is required because of the density of the 'new' air the motor gets from the right side, to create the proper a/f ratio and to generally correct shortcommings in the stock system.
Not meaning to preach at all here, I'm a novice engine guy who likes to delve into the the physics of how things work. =)

[CaddmannQ]

What I noticed is some improvement in throttle response in the low-midrange (which is the cruising range) and definate improvement in the mid to upper-midrange as well. On the top end there wasn't much difference. Gas mileage improved as moderate speeds, but around town and at constant high speeds there was no real improvement. (Remember that a Nomad is fighting the wind with those huge bags & windshield. A naked Meanie might do better.)

Frankly, I think this mod produces more airflow, but the flow isn't quite as smooth as it could be at some spots. Hard to say as I don't have anything to compare it with. I do think a taller filter element (say 2 1/4" vs. my 1 3/4" high) wound help, or simply spacing the 1 3/4" element off the back plate with a ring of some sort. I really don't want my filters sticking out any farther though. I like the way they hug close to the engine.

[furious70]

yes, it would be very interesting to be able to spend a day on a dyno with a bunch of filters, spacers, take the IAC's in and out, etc, to see if there is some turbulence in the setup. Unfortunately that would be cost prohibitive for most of us.

I right side Caddmann'ed last night, took about 10min, I left the IAC's running. I plugged the reed valve hose, but with my V&H straight shots I really didn't notice less cackle/backfire on decel. like I hoped for. I really dislike the bike doing that.
I'm running the stock airbox map from DJ, I'm going to switch to a Thunder map for their airkit and straight shots, we'll see if it behaves differently.