Another VN800 bobber project

[El Skitzo]

Originally Posted by CELTICCB

OK I need some Ideas on what to do with my bike. I have some ideas.

Don't forget to check out my previous thread on building a VN800 Bobber, you might get some ideas from there.

http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...r-project.html

1. I never bothered to lower the rear as after all the other mods you don't notice it now.
2. I simply replaced the whole rear fender/struts set up with my own which I mounted to the swingarm for that "rigid" look.
3. I haven't done that yet, but there are plenty of people here who can tell you how to do that.
4. Either handle bar choice would look good. I almost went for apes, but baulked at the last minute and went for flat tracker bars.
5. You're not going to find much for the VN800, so either make your own, or even just mount up a custom seat pan from a Chopper builder.
6. That's exactly how mine were done, cut the original mufflers off behind the heat shields and added 2-1/4" straight pipe with a baffle added in for good measure. Cost less than half the price of aftermarket pipes, and I think they look better.
7. I like that idea. I'm thinking of selling my bike and doing another all blacked out like an 'Exile' bike. Mainly because I want to use my bike daily and not have it look unkept.

[Kelso]

Originally Posted by CELTICCB

OK I need some Ideas on what to do with my bike. I have some ideas. I have the VN800A model and what I wanted to do was:
1. Lower the bike with the kit from scootworks
2. cut another fender or purchase one for @$55.00 and cut & paint.
3. Get rid of the EPA crap on the carb.
4. go with drag bars or 1/2 Apes?
5. Solo seat, I think that this is what really makes the bobber look and wherecan I get one?
6. Make my own damn pipes because 400+ for pipes is crazy! The Drag look I figure to take the existing cut the pipes at the end just before the muffler and weld straight pieces on and do the wrap thing.
7. Take all the chrome off and go for the black matt finish. Like the Night Train.

Dude, I had apes on the VN750, made the trees to damn "heavy" for my liking, I put a set of Renthal MX bars on the bike... Identical to WCC's Super Neat Bars for $40... They allow you to utilize the factory 'riser' mount...

You can pick up solo seats on ebay pretty cheap, search for Anvil Customs... *****in' comfy solo seats and everything you need from $60 and up...

Totally with you on the pipes man... Just watch out with drag pipes, be sure to jet the carb if need be, otherwise you might torch a piston... And the exhaust wrap is way cheaper if you search for and buy the autimotive 'header' wrap... Same product, different market, cheaper price...

Good luck

[CELTICCB]

First thanks Skitzo this is great info I am a buzz with my brain going a mile a second. I would like to get that info on the strut replacement it looks like a PITA to do it my self that is why I was opting for the KIT. But hey man do it your self is cheeper and my wife likes cheeper. Military E7 with 16 years just is not good enough.

KELSO
Thanks too man! I think that the drag bars are the way or just raise the stock ones for now.

[El Skitzo]

Originally Posted by CELTICCB

First thanks Skitzo this is great info I am a buzz with my brain going a mile a second. I would like to get that info on the strut replacement it looks like a PITA to do it my self that is why I was opting for the KIT. But hey man do it your self is cheeper and my wife likes cheeper. Military E7 with 16 years just is not good enough.

KELSO
Thanks too man! I think that the drag bars are the way or just raise the stock ones for now.

Have a go yourself it really is not that hard. Prior to doing this conversion myself, I'd never worked with metal before and never worked on a motorcycle either. The only tools I used were an 4" angle grinder with a cutting disk, a bench vice, a drill and some hand files. Not expensive tools if you don't already have them.

If you change your handlebars and reduce the distance they pull back from the trees (which drag bars will do), then you can actually raise them up a fair way without having to change out your cables and wiring. My bars kick up a couple of inches and I have them on top of 6" tall risers. If I'd used a flat drag bar I probably could have gone as high as 8" risers without any dramas.

[skewterdewd]

Check out WEST-EAGLE MOTORCYCLE PRODUCTS
lots of parts for the 800 (if you can read the catalog)

[El Skitzo]

Originally Posted by skewterdewd

Check out WEST-EAGLE MOTORCYCLE PRODUCTS
lots of parts for the 800 (if you can read the catalog)

Thanks for the link, that looks like all the parts from Easyriders in Japan. I would have just bought a rear fender/seat kit from them if they allowed international shipping out of Japan (which they didn't). If you can order the same gear through an agent in the US then that's great. Too bad they don't have that springer front end listed, as I want that badly!!

[Thullan]

CELTICCB, Boat-Rap.com has a fender kit for the 800 as well. I sent them an e-mail about it earlier this year but they never replied though. Use Babelfish to translate it, unless you know japanese.

I personally went for a bobbed VN800 Classic fender instead as it allows for a passenger if needed. I put on the Scootworks lowering kit to make it look good, would look like crap without it. It sort of resembles the Roland Sands or Heartland USA looks in a way.

At first I considered either a matt black, medium gray or some flake/metallic paint. I eventually decided to go for a bare metal look with some pinstriping and stuff as a contrast, all covered by a protective coating. A friend did it on his Softail a couple of years ago and i have seen it on some other bikes and Hot Rods. Using sand paper to get the old paint of takes ages though so I might let someone sand blast it for me.

The chrome on the fender struts, dashboard etc is gonna get a Scotchbrite threatment to get a matte finnish.

CELTICCB, keep us updated!

[skewterdewd]

Originally Posted by El Skitzo

Thanks for the link, that looks like all the parts from Easyriders in Japan. I would have just bought a rear fender/seat kit from them if they allowed international shipping out of Japan (which they didn't). If you can order the same gear through an agent in the US then that's great. Too bad they don't have that springer front end listed, as I want that badly!!

Yes indeed. Same company. West eagle is the U.S. distribution out of California

ph # 310 787 8577
email info@west-eagle.com

[Thullan]

I test fitted the fender and seat for the first time this weekend, gives an idea of how they match.

The fender is still to high above the tire so I will set the adjustable lowering kit to it's lowest setting, which is another inch down from where it sits today. Later on I will change to a smaller rear sprocket which will also move the wheel further back. The stock indicators really looks huge on this pic, but I have another set waiting to be asembled.

The tank and rear fender should both get the bare metal look, but I need to find a better way of getting the old paint off. I have spent several hours with sand paper only to get this far...

[El Skitzo]

It's looking good mate, especially with that seat in place there. I agree it will look better even lower.

Have you thought about using a chemical paint stripper rather than sanding? I know a guy in my old car club who completely stripped his whole car back to bare metal using paint stripper and a plastic scraper.

Or I guess you could try an electric sander to speed up the manual process.

[Thullan]

There is something called "CRC Gasket Remover" wich also work on paint. Problem is that it's hard to find in downtown where I work. I must go out to the automobil shops in the suburbs during office hours by car, which isn't an option. The same reason why I haven't had someone sand blast it for me for a couple of bucks.

Setting the bike one inch lower is a piece of cake, making the shock preload even stiffer to prevent bottoming out is not. And I must move the wheel further back or it will rub the front of the fender when I put weight on it. I noticed that the stock taillight cable was allready rubbed down to the copper because of this, right above the hole in the fender where the cable leaves. This is because the fender is almost flat in the front, not concave as on the top. It can be seen here:

[CELTICCB]

Hey guys I have pics but can not for the life of me figure out how to post them? Any help? Oh and here is what I did, Thanks to KENZ Muffler he gave me my pipes and bent them too get this, FOR FREE! So now I have pipes I went and used my MIG and welded them on and found some one inch pipe for the bars but man I think that I will have to adjust the clutch my damn lever feels like it is twisted! but it is coming along I got 4 solo seats off Ebay for $5 with minor imperfections. So all I have to do is make the seat pan and go I can not wait TOTAL SO FAR just under $100.00

[CELTICCB]

Oh and another thing I went to get a new tire for the 21" but no luck $200 YIKES! Would there be a chance that a 18 might fit my bike I need a better front tire just does not look BOBBISH enough for me! Looks like a Pizza Cutter any trades?

[Thullan]

Celtic you can simply attach images by using this button: I believe you have to go to "Go Advanced" to have this option, and you only have a limited amount of space at your disposal.

If you have uploaded the pictures to a web server, then use this button instead:

Now show us what you got there, mate

[CELTICCB]

Well here they are I will send another reply to explain them in order.

[CELTICCB]

Ok now the first one was what my pipes looked like before the transformation.

the second is those fram holes that I think I will utilise for the fender support mounts. (sorry for the half assed arrows)

the third Well "Got Mufflers?"

the fourth shows what the muffler shop gave me for free and I could not wait to weld them on I was in such a haste that I had to grind my welds down they where really sloppy. (plus I am my own worst critic)

the fifth is the full look with the drag bars. As I was welding my pipes in the shop I came across this piece of pipe and was like that looks 1" and presto! drag bars. They seem a bit uncomfortable but it was a temp fix until the ones I am bidding on come through.

Oh and thanks for the "Mate" I never had anyone call me that before I did not think it was a term used lightly.

[El Skitzo]

Originally Posted by CELTICCB

Ok now the first one was what my pipes looked like before the transformation.

the second is those fram holes that I think I will utilise for the fender support mounts. (sorry for the half assed arrows)

the third Well "Got Mufflers?"

the fourth shows what the muffler shop gave me for free and I could not wait to weld them on I was in such a haste that I had to grind my welds down they where really sloppy. (plus I am my own worst critic)

the fifth is the full look with the drag bars. As I was welding my pipes in the shop I came across this piece of pipe and was like that looks 1" and presto! drag bars. They seem a bit uncomfortable but it was a temp fix until the ones I am bidding on come through.

I like the look of those pipes, they'll look great when they're done, perfect 60's bobber style.

Those holes you're planning on using to support your rear fender are the same ones I used. They take an M12 bolt with a 1.25 bolt pitch.

I like the look of the drag bars on the low risers very mean and tough look!

Originally Posted by CELTICCB

Oh and thanks for the "Mate" I never had anyone call me that before I did not think it was a term used lightly.

I'm an Australian, everyone is our mate

[CELTICCB]

Hey Skitzo, do you think that I could get a 18" rim and use my hub on it for that front bobber tire? You know get a rim and cut out the original hub then lace in my hub? I do not think that it would take/need any shims it should be true to that hub or am I wishing?

[CELTICCB]

Thullan you out there man? Have not heard any comments yet or did I dissapoint you bro?

[El Skitzo]

Originally Posted by CELTICCB

Hey Skitzo, do you think that I could get a 18" rim and use my hub on it for that front bobber tire? You know get a rim and cut out the original hub then lace in my hub? I do not think that it would take/need any shims it should be true to that hub or am I wishing?

You should be able to do that if you can find a rim with the same number of spokes. I intend to have that done (by a specialist) to go up from 16" to 21" on my next project for the front wheel.