99 Vulcan 800A Bobber project

[IMB4U]

Ok so I have a couple of questions moving forward here, So along with shutting the gas off when you shut the engine off, how are the vacuum lines blocked? I just run a line from the petcock to where the line goes now? And if you look at the last picture of the Bobber project, on the forks there are metal covers covering the dust guards, I have no idea how those come off? And why does the first picture always show a link instead of the picture I copy and paste it the same as the others. These are just some questions I would love to have the answers to. Thanks

[jeffs99vulcan]

Can't help you with the fork cover or petcock, but that first picture probably didn't copy & paste properly... just go back and edit that post, make sure the IMG and brackets are around both ends of the string, and if you have to just copy and paste it again. You can always check if it worked by clicking on "go advanced" and then "Preview Post"... that should do it.

(I've heard of a lot of people asking about those fork covers, I'll be glad to see when you finally get an answer...)

[Alley Rat]

the fork cover you just tap off with a screw driver and hammer.

[IMB4U]

Thanks for the advice i'll use it moving forward on this project, any idea about how to set up the gas line? I predicted this project taking a few months, but once the parts are in i have a feeling it wont be long at all. ha

[El Skitzo]

I've just crunched some numbers using figures from the Avon website, and if you swap a 21" front wheel onto an 800 classic, the front axle will be 3/4 of an inch higher off the ground than with the stock 16" front wheel. Probably not all the noticable I guess.

[El Skitzo]

Originally Posted by Alley Rat

well yeah you still have to change the axles, but the hubs are the same so bearings will fix that. How are you gonna paint it?

So you're saying that in order to put the 21" wheel from an A onto a B, all you need is the 21" front wheel from the A with the bearings from the 16" wheel of the B in it, and the axle from the A model and that's it? If the axle is a different diameter how does it work with the fork legs?

Sorry for going on about it, but I'm just trying to figure out if the wheel swap using A parts is easiest, or just taking the 21" rim and spokes from the A and relacing them to the hub from the B.

[IMB4U]

You have the 16" front wheel now....so all you need is the 21" wheel, then take the bearings out of the 16" wheel and put them in the 21" and install with the same axle as the 16". I didnt swap bears, so I had to swap out the forks.

[Alley Rat]

Originally Posted by El Skitzo

So you're saying that in order to put the 21" wheel from an A onto a B, all you need is the 21" front wheel from the A with the bearings from the 16" wheel of the B in it, and the axle from the A model and that's it? If the axle is a different diameter how does it work with the fork legs?

Sorry for going on about it, but I'm just trying to figure out if the wheel swap using A parts is easiest, or just taking the 21" rim and spokes from the A and relacing them to the hub from the B.

No I noticed later what I said. All you have to do is change the bearings in the hub from the A model to the B model ones. That is the easiest way because you dont have to swap out the whole front end.

[Alley Rat]

Originally Posted by IMB4U

how are the vacuum lines blocked? I just run a line from the petcock to where the line goes now? And if you look at the last picture of the Bobber project, on the forks there are metal covers covering the dust guards, I have no idea how those come off?

All you have to do is follow the vacuum lines back from the stock petcock and cap off the ports the lines go into. It should only be on the carb and on the rocker covers. For the fuel, you just run your gas line from your petcock to the carb and put an inline filter in it.

[IMB4U]

awesome, thank you. My sporty tank should be coming soon. another quick question about the mini speedo, what ratio is that 1:1 or a 2:1? I am about to buy one and noticed there are two differant ones.

[FL Vulcan Rider]

Originally Posted by IMB4U

Ok so I have a couple of questions moving forward here, So along with shutting the gas off when you shut the engine off, how are the vacuum lines blocked? I just run a line from the petcock to where the line goes now? And if you look at the last picture of the Bobber project, on the forks there are metal covers covering the dust guards, I have no idea how those come off? And why does the first picture always show a link instead of the picture I copy and paste it the same as the others. These are just some questions I would love to have the answers to. Thanks

When posting pictures... in addition to putting the link there.... for every time it puts a %20 in the link when you paste it.... cut out the %20 and put a space.

Example of wrong way:
cycle.org/forum/this%20is%20an%20example/

This is what it should really look like:
cycle.org/forum/this is an example/

[Alley Rat]

Originally Posted by IMB4U

awesome, thank you. My sporty tank should be coming soon. another quick question about the mini speedo, what ratio is that 1:1 or a 2:1? I am about to buy one and noticed there are two differant ones.

Exact ratio is 2240:1 but 2:1 is close enough. I couldn't find a white face 2240 so i just got a 2:1 white face. How good are you at wiring?

[IMB4U]

I am good enough to understand ground and power and be able to extend or shorten properly with soldering. Thanks for the tip I am going to get the 2:1 gauge tonight.

[IMB4U]

So the sporty tank, rear fender and sidemount taillight and plate bracket have come in, with the sporty tank in now I have been trying to think of ways to make the radiator hose more discret but without getting rid of the fill cap and overflow. So here is my thought. Alley rat has just a hose cutting out the cap and overflow all together, I dont really want to take that risk but really like the smooth look, so what if i just splice one of these in? It wont be as bulky as the stock one and somewhat descret as just a hose. Any thoughts before I buy it?

[Alley Rat]

Dude where you are from you would never have a bit of trouble. I never have and live in the south. Nothing is gonna be as smooth as just the hose no matter what you do.

[crazmaister]

but how does engine work without thermostatic valve?I think it didn't warm up correctly, because with the direct radiator's hose it pass more coolant than necessary...the engine usually run in a precise range of temperature isn't it, without thermo-valve it stay cooler than normal..isn't it?


i found this one..





it's a go-kart thermo-valve...you must check if technical characteristics are the same of vulcan's one.

[crazmaister]

you can try to replace the stock thermo-valve between the cylinders (opposite to the carb)..you need only to buy a longer hose from valve to the radiator and you can cover the valve with a "harley type" horn cover..so you have a hose that run under the fuel tank and the valve hidden between cylinders..understand?

[IMB4U]

I get it, still pondering up some ideas at this point but all suggestions a helping.

[crazmaister]

i think this is the best solution if you want to hide your valve...it's only necessary to test if it fit correctly..is your cooling system disassembled?

[IMB4U]

It is not disassembled yet, is this design using the stock system? Because wouldnt the fill and thermo valve need to be the highest point in the route