81 KZ440: rusty chain and noise- looking for suggestions

[thehumble1]

my KZ440 is running well enough for me to worry about chain noise, which is good. I took the slack out of the chain and started lubing it, which is helping somewhat. It has surface rust on the chain and front and rear sprockets, but I think the sound goes beyond this. The sound is uneven, sounding like it's in sync with the rotation of the rear wheel (and rear sprocket). It's a roomp roomp roomp that goes along with the "normal" chain noise.

I guess I'm wondering two things:

1) what could be causing this irregular, sprocket rotation noise?
(I don't have a center stand so I cant just prop it up and spin the rear wheel - so on another point, can I buy a LTD center stand for this B2?)

2) given that I still need to do a lot of other work on it, should I really just replace both sprockets and chain now? Or can I just keep derusting and greasing up the chain to keep it going? (the chain tensioner is almost bottomed out, so the chain is wearing out)

THANKS!!

[OKC_Kent]

If your tensioners on the rear axle are all the way back it sounds as if the chain is worn out. If a chain is neglected it stretches unevenly, and that is very likely the noise you hear now. When you roll the bike forward check the chain tension every few inches and you will find it tighter in spots and loose in other places. Inspect the rear sprocket teeth and see if the are worn evenly or have a "hook" from uneven wear.

Check out Beartooth, our forum host or Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts for a new chain and sprockets. Sprockets should be replaced when a chain is replaced, they wear together as a set.

I don't know if the centerstand you mention will fit, but check eBay, they sold a lot of 440's and someone is always selling parts.

[thehumble1]

thanks for the post. you are right that the chain has some tight spots, which may to it, but I tried to tension the chain by having it within threshold when the chain is the tightest. Even at these tight spots, I can still wiggle it somewhat, though it doesn't have any flop. So I might have increased the noise by tensioning it I guess, if these tight spots are now causing more noise.

The rear sprocket doesn't look worn much at all. The bike has 19k on it though, so either it's a new sprocket or it was run clean and oiled most of the time. Either way, I think I'm at about $100/month as my max pay out right now, so I'm going to deal with it for now. I checked out Z1 before but didn't find the sprockets. I guess I'll keep looking or ask them. I've heard they have more stock than just what's on the site. Thanks again for the reply.

Any suggestions as far as lube? I love the waxes I use on my pedal bikes and have heard that Maxima chain wax is pretty well respected but I've got no experience.

[MFolks]

You'll be better off replacing both sprockets and chain as old parts will quickly wear new parts. It's almost impossible trying to adjust for tight and loose spots in the chain along with out of round wear on the sprockets.

[shui3000]

i've got the same bike, and the chain was rusty when i bought it. i figured if i just lubed the chain, everything would be fine. a couple weeks later, the chain fell apart while riding. could have been pretty bad. don't let it happen to you! just get the chain and sprockets replaced!

[thehumble1]

good point. not a part that I want to neglect. I took a look at the sprockets a bit more closely last night and there is some wearing. The chain is tight in several places and is almost at the end of the tensioner. Most of the rust has come off with a cleaning, but with it the uneven, rough noise, I know there are some extra stresses going on. I'll get on it.

And I guess I'm going to be pushed towards buying an O(XW)-ring chain? I'm not going to be putting more than a few thousand miles a year on this, more like a few hundred, do you think it's worth it to get the O-Ring chain?

Thanks for the constructive and cautionary responses.

[Bill Frazier]

Your bike originally came with a non-o ring "heavy duty" chain. I replaced mine with the same kind (about $20) at around 10,000 miles, and replaced both the chain and sprockets about 10,000 miles later. I always kept it well lubricated and adjusted, and replaced it only because it was beginning to stretch a bit, but nowhere as bad as yours. The sprockets were starting to show a little wear at 20,000 miles. Like you, I average maybe 1000 miles or less a year.
For your intended use, I would not bother with an expensive ($100-200) chain; a "standard" chain is too light, but a "heavy duty" one is acceptable. But my advice may be worth exactly what you paid for it! YMMV.

[thehumble1]

okay, looks like oldbikebarn has chains for $30 and Z1 has the two sprockets for about $45 along with a chain breaker, oil and air filters, and rear brake pads, I've got a good order set up. Now for the $. Where did I put that extra $200 ??

I'm still trying to figure out how to raise the rear end to work on the chain/wheel, because without a center stand I'm either on a floor jack or bottle jack and stands, none of which I have yet, so I need to figure out something. I think that I might as well get a center stand because it will work as well as anything and can ride on the bike. Thanks for the feedback.