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Old 07-19-2009   #41 (permalink)
nelson8708
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If you follow the y/b wire it goes to a ground. Follow the y/b wire to its first junction and go west until that wire T's then go north and its grounded to frame.
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Old 07-19-2009   #42 (permalink)
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since the ignitor wiring is still up in the air i'm only going to wire the rectifier today and save the ignitor for another day.
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Old 07-19-2009   #43 (permalink)
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Gotcha... I was tracing the wrong way through the start button. There's a VERY SMALL line that I didn't catch that runs from the engine stop switch to the same terminal of the start button that's tied to the ignitor.... so yes, the R/Y is full-time 12vdc supply for both the coils and the ignitors. The other side of the start button activates the starter solenoid.

Opening the engine stop switch kills the 12v supply to the ignitors and coils.
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Old 07-20-2009   #44 (permalink)
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Here are a couple updated pics. I have finished the battery box / cage, mounted the rectifier and ignitor where they will have plenty of air flow, mounted the coils, and the rectifier is now wired along with my starter circuit. Once the ignitor is wired i will be able to attempt to start her. Over this next week i want to make my new rear brake pedal and extend the stock kz kick stand.




^tight fit



^threw some plastics on it (still need to get the tank welded)
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Old 07-20-2009   #45 (permalink)
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That thing is going to be a screamer!
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Old 07-20-2009   #46 (permalink)
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Wow. Looks like you have made good progress. Got an estimated start/testride date yet??
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Old 07-20-2009   #47 (permalink)
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I'm going to try to start it by the end of the month. It will only be for a few seconds since i dont have an exhaust yet. Test ride will be hopefullly some time in the fall, maybe October. I still have a lot of work like throttle cable, rebuild the front forks, sync the carbs and finish the gas tank. If i cant find some one local with a sync tool that wants to help me out i'm going to do one of those home made ones.
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Old 07-21-2009   #48 (permalink)
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I highlighted that circuit and when its red is on the power side and when it turns blue (after the starter solenoid) its on the ground side. Now i'm confused because where does the starter solenoid get power from to start. The engine wouldn't be turning so the ignitor would not have any power.



I dont want to have to buy another ignitor if i get this wrong. Those suckers aren't cheap.

-Nelson
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Old 07-21-2009   #49 (permalink)
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It looks to me like the starter button gets power from the engine stop switch.
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Old 07-21-2009   #50 (permalink)
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The large battery cable goes to the starter relay (the cable is on the diagram but there's a gap in it).
The smaller battery cable goes to the fuse box, which feeds the ignition switch/kill switch, and the rest of the circuits.

Here's the complete circuit... Red is hot 24/7. Red/Yellow is hot when the ignition switch is on and the engine kill switch is in "run".

You missed the same wire that I missed originally... there's a very small trace going from the engine kill switch over to the start button... that's where the starter relay gets it's coil power.

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Old 07-21-2009   #51 (permalink)
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This is a lot like a project that has been rolling around loose in the back of my head for a while. Therefore, I dig it! Awesome

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Old 07-22-2009   #52 (permalink)
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Thank you rich. I never even saw that little tracer wire. Now i will be able to hook up the battery with out fear of seeing the magic smoke appear from something.
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Old 07-22-2009   #53 (permalink)
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And if it does smoke, the GM HEI ignitors aren't that expensive.
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Old 07-22-2009   #54 (permalink)
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I've already doubled the orginal budget for this project and i'm not even done yet. Once i put some time on it riding then if something breaks i dont have a problem throwing a little more money in it. But, this thing hasn't even seen the road yet.

Bought my exhaust the other day.....should be here some time next week.
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Old 07-30-2009   #55 (permalink)
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i finished the wiring, brake pedal, and kick stand. I started on the exhaust and the way i had planed to route the center two cylinders to help give the wheel clearance is not going to work so the good news is the exhaust is done......the bad news is now i need to rake out the front end a few degrees to give me some room. Hope to have that done by the 8th......this is going to test my welding skillz
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Old 07-30-2009   #56 (permalink)
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Adapt offset steering head bearings. Easiest and cheapest.
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Old 08-03-2009   #57 (permalink)
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I added 3-4 degrees of rake and moved the head tube forward about 1.25". This up coming weekend i am taking a trip to "tail of the dragon" with some buddies. I'm going to borrow my uncle's honda sabre 700 for the weekend. Depending on when i get back sunday i may try to rebuild my forks. I found a 41 tooth rear sprocket so i will be able to get close to the stock sprocket ratio of the kz. I know i have said that i will try to start it but, i want to wait so when it does start i can ride it down the street at least. So i need to get part of the head welded so i can drill and tap a new hole for the exhaust stud that got broke off. Here are a few pics i snapped during this past weekend.


^pic of a couple of the pipes bolted up (pre-raking the front end)

^stock head tube

^took a little bit of time with the cutting wheel

^mocked up checking the rake angel

^little paint
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Old 08-03-2009   #58 (permalink)
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That's gonna' be a screamer when it's done! Won't respond quite like it did as a dirtbike, but with that engine, I think you'll be glad you've added the rake.
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Old 08-05-2009   #59 (permalink)
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Im seeing awesome motard material here.......
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Old 08-05-2009   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronrkelly View Post
Im seeing awesome motard material here.......
Ya... shame it won't be legal for competition unless they've added an unlimited class.
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