Carb question

[kopcicle]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/26MM-MIKUNI-CARBS-KAWASAKI-SUZUKI-KZ-GS_W0QQitemZ220447207905QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcy cles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3353ad71e1&_trksid =p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|72%3A1171

look familiar ??!!

vintage '79 GS850 GS1000 carbs (sorry it was the best pic I could find in a hurry)

I noticed that the vents looked like they were plugged with screws . These must be open to atmosphere or in rare cases the airbox (more on that if you care to ask ) If this was done to prevent fuel from spewing out you have a needle valve and seat problem .

If you are doing all this behind a questionable valve adjust you are wasting your time . It will have to be done again .

Valve adjust > Rough in mixture > Sync carbs > Adjust mixture > Sync carbs (repeat the last two as necessary )

If the after market ignition is replacing the centrifugal advance then don't be tempted go much beyond 38 degrees total advance .

If it not replacing the centrifugal advance then set at 8 to 10 degrees initial and check to make sure it doesn't have more than 38 total .

The total advance is a years long rule of thumb that may as the quality of gas deteriorates need to be examined carefully . I do know that adventures beyond 38 degrees without due care , caution and experience can lead to air conditioned pistons . Of course slower burning racing fuels will allow further lead but that's not what we're here for .

A little patience will gain you great results withe these carbs . Just make sure the idle jets (pilots) are clear and go from there .

~kop

[MAFED]

Hi everyone who has given me some great advice, update today is that I eventually got the engine to run with a set of second hand carbs from an ST1000, but these didn’t really help, the issue is with the ignition timing. When all else failed a decided to move the new base plate, part of the electronic ignition I have recently brought, turning it anti-clockwise increased the revs and allowed the engine to start better & enabled me to lower the tick over! I cannot understand this as the magnetic rotor is off the suggested setting by at least 15 degrees? But the engine runs and allows me to set the idle speed to approx 1000 rpm (Is this right for a 1977 z1000?).

So now for a road test, as the frame has a set of extended forward controls I was unable to get any gears but 1st and of course neutral, so I am no further forward (literally!) I have tried to move the gear lever up to test 2nd & 3rd etc but it just will not budge? Any help anyone?

Cheers

Mark

[Mike900]

The bike may have to be moving to shift into the upper gears. I'm not sure from your post if you were moving or not.

[MFolks]

Go to Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts and ask about the mechanical ignition advancers. I believe there are two different ones and will one work better than the other for your purpose. I saw someting about this a few months ago on KZrider.com - Home

[MAFED]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the guidance & links, although I have already fitted the Boyer-Bransden electronic ignition, gives a great spark but as I said previously the engine running & idle is better when I off set the new magnetic rotor 10 to 15 degrees in advance of the suggested TDC on 1 & 4 mark? As regards the gear select; yes the bike was moving in first gear, will try next on an open road rather than the back yard & build more speed up and see if I can get up the gears?

Many thanks

Mark