1977 KZ650 B1, Old bike! New Guy!

[steell]

See the green wire going to the alternator (AC generator) at the bottom of the wiring diagram? That wire is connected to the field coil, it's just not labeled as a field coil on the diagram.

The switched brown wire formerly went to the regulator, that's required, otherwise the reg will keep sending power to the field coil when the bike's not running, and it will drain the battery. It's the brown wire that's connected to the turn signal flasher (looks like it anyway, hard to read) on one end, and the reg on the other.


So, orange wire from reg/rec connected to green wire from Alternator. Green wire from reg/rec connected to brown wire from turn signal flasher (it just happens to provide power to flasher also).

OK?

[blazer8689]

Thanks steell!!! Got it!, Now i need to check and recheck before i connect the battery, ok so whats the worse that could happen? (curious)

[Mike900]

Originally Posted by blazer8689

ok so whats the worse that could happen? (curious)

Wellllllllllll, I suppose the wiring harness could burst into flames & burn through the fuel lines causing the fuel tank to explode & start the house on fire. Your cell phone could be on the bike so you couldn't call the fire department & the fire could spread to the neighboring homes & if there's any wind could jump over to the neighboring streets. The responding fire trucks could crash into the city's water tower & the entire city of Tucson could burn to the ground.

[Mike900]

Tough crowd, not even a snicker? Anyway - if you're really worried about connecting the battery then 1st connect the positive side of the battery. Now just hold a 10 amp fuse between the neg cable & post. If the fuse doesn't blow then you're ok to connect the battery.

[blazer8689]

Originally Posted by Mike900

Tough crowd, not even a snicker? Anyway - if you're really worried about connecting the battery then 1st connect the positive side of the battery. Now just hold a 10 amp fuse between the neg cable & post. If the fuse doesn't blow then you're ok to connect the battery.

HA HA HA HA You made my day!!!!, well to prevent a catastrophe i will put a 10 amp fuse!!!, I live next to a national park and if that should burn YOWZA! what a fine!!, Really you made my day!!! Thanks, Im so close to getting it started coat the gas tank and a battery!!..........

[wired_89]

mike900.... best answer i have ever seen on this forum!!!! hahahahhaha

[blazer8689]

After a 5 1/2 year sleep she is awake!!!! Rbuilt carbs, fuel lines, spark plugs, etc etc..... it started!!!! And ran!!!!! until i cut it, YES it is running. Question though i tried to kick start it but it was too easy to kick, I had to use the electric start, so does this mean my kick start is broken and i need to crack open the whole half of the engine to get to the mech gears to replace and kick start??

[blazer8689]

After a couple of months got this baby running 5 years out of storage...... not perfect but its running, and no smoke, High idle and im figuring i need to sync the carbs, adjust the jets in the carbs, and the floats and take a look at the valve clearence, spark plugs have dark powder so its running rich, i really dont have the right tools for the carbs adjustments and sync.

I figure id take it to the shop and have them do the valve and carb adjustments....... ballpark figure, how much would that run?

[StarGate]

Just a guesstamet, but figure around $70-100 and hr labor rate, assuming you can find a shop that will work on it. Probably 1 hr for sync and adjust the carbs (of course if they dyno it then thats just going to add to the bill). Shim under bucket so that means the cams have to come out for valve adjustments. I'd guess they would add another 2-2.5 hours for that. Then add any parts needed like shims, valve cover gasket, etc. and add another 30-40% to the bill for simple reason that some shops will do that and you're looking at something between 300-500 would be my guess.

[blazer8689]

WELL!!! its riding great!!!! Shifts gears Great (clunky) but normal, Zoom down the road i go, man this is a great bike! KZ650 super sweet bike to ride, i made the mistake of not using gloves and blisterd the hell out of them ha ha. Ill soon have some pics up, but I got a Question:

1) How do I keep the headlight from drooping down? The little plastic grip washers broke so i used regular washers but stiull droops.

2) i wanna put different turn signals, which should I get? L.E.D or the bulb type? Is there a hassel to putting on L.E.D's

Thanks for your time to reading this, any info will be helpful!!


-Eric

[StarGate]

I'm not sure about your particular model but mine has a little arm attached to the bottom of the headlight bucket that has an elongated slot. A bolt/nut that attaches the arm to the fork allows the headlight to be tilted when loose or holds it firmly in place when tight. I suspect yours has something similar if not the same but your bolt could be missing or loose. If you decide to go with LED then plan on replacing the flasher/s (bikes that have hazard lights use dual flashers) as well. I've heard good and bad things about the LED's.

[blazer8689]

oh i think ive seen those type,

Is that was your looks like?

[StarGate]

No, that's the bracket for mounting the headlight bucket. I'm talking about the bucket it's self. Mine uses ears that come from the forks but is not the part in question. Look up under the headlight housing/bucket and see if it has any sort of attaching point.

[rstnick]

Good to hear you've got her running well.

When using the kickstarter, do not pull in the clutch lever (but do have the transmission in nuetral), or it will feel "too easy to kick".

[zeiss150]

Hi Eric! I just used a regular fender washer. I still have the rubber parts that go through the headlight bucket, so maybe those are working.

I replaced my turn signals with light bulbs. I didn't like the LED style.

Go to your local hardware shop and and get some rubber washers and see if that helps.

Good luck, Matt-

[blazer8689]

AHHHHHHH for the life of me i cannot figure out the wiring in my turn signals, I bought some new turn signals (3 wire) Black, Black/White, Red, Of course kawasaki is green,grey, and black with yellow is ground..... Now these are the bulb type so no L.E.D.S.


I connect the black wire from bulb to ground (black/yellow) and red wire from bulb to (green) and (grey) for the other side etc etc, it just stays on (dim). Now if I swap the the ground with the black/white (from bulbs) it works...... BUT! when I turn the lights on it just stays on, does not blink.........sigh.....
Please help! Thanks


--Eric

[Laar Jorgens]

Originally Posted by blazer8689

AHHHHHHH for the life of me i cannot figure out the wiring in my turn signals, I bought some new turn signals (3 wire) Black, Black/White, Red, Of course kawasaki is green,grey, and black with yellow is ground..... Now these are the bulb type so no L.E.D.S.


I connect the black wire from bulb to ground (black/yellow) and red wire from bulb to (green) and (grey) for the other side etc etc, it just stays on (dim). Now if I swap the the ground with the black/white (from bulbs) it works...... BUT! when I turn the lights on it just stays on, does not blink.........sigh.....
Please help! Thanks


--Eric

If you have a 3 wire signal it likely has a double function bulb for running lights AND signal.

And you need to test to see if ANY of the 3 wires on your new signals are indeed a ground wire.

[blazer8689]

well i took a turn signal and went straight to the battery,

-----black on neg, red on pos, works,

----- black/white on neg, red on pos, works

-----black/white and black on neg, red pos, works

Ive tried every combination, funny how there is 1 wire from the (O.E) turn signal and one ground not even connected to it but it works,.... where as 3 from the new one is making me lose more of my hair!

I got it where it works,

Black/white-----ground on bike

Red-------grey and green from bike

It works BUT im not sure correctly, it wont blink with the lights turned on....... Almost but no

[Mike900]

The flasher has a bi-metal strip that moves away from the contacts when it gets hot. This causes the lights to go off & the bi-metal strip cools off & moves back to the contacts to once again complete the circuit.

Here's a few of the most likely problems that could be causing them not to flash.

#1 I think the most likely is you are using the wrong bulbs. I believe that they are rated in candlepower. If you have the wrong candlepower bulbs the bi-metal strip can get too hot & cause them to flash too slow or the strip won't get hot enough & cause them to flash too fast or not at all. Check all four bulbs for the correct candlepower.

#2 Quite simple - you could have a bad flasher.

#3 Battery could be weak - do they flash when the engine is running?

[blazer8689]

thanks Mike900.......... but my temper got the best of me and I threw a screw driver and broke one turn signal, BIG ..............sigh...............

I tried starting the bike and it was dead, so i kick start it, but that was after the fact my rage got out, well Mike900 thanks for the info and ill definatly try that next time,