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Old 09-27-2009   #1 (permalink)
David Reischaue
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Cool oil

I am currently running valvoline 20/50 motorcycle. should I be running a different oil in my 1980 ltd 1000? I know most current oils have taken out most of the zink, thanks Dave
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Old 09-27-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Any motorcycle oil is fine. Valvoline 20w50 is decent stuff for a non-synthetic.
The zinc has been removed from automotive oils.
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Old 09-28-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Because Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate poisons catalytic converters. Using motorcycle specific oil is GOOD for your bike.


Bob may be the oil guy, but Rich is the oil GOD!
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Old 09-29-2009   #4 (permalink)
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I've been running Valvoline 20W50 for quite a while and have no complaints.
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Old 09-29-2009   #5 (permalink)
David Reischaue
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thanks Rich, would I be better off to run Syn. oil ? I know you have probably been asked this a 1000 times, but I am a new member. I'm 57 years old and still have the need for speed!
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Old 09-29-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Hi David, welcome to the forum. Ive been running Mobile-1 Racing 4T 10W-40 "motorcycle oil" for well over a year now with no negative effects. Its formulated for wet clutch primaries and extreme heat and pressures. These older bike engines need the "Zinc" formulas for protection for two reasons,1)Loose tolerances(compared to today's). 2) Zinc is the last remaining defence against metal to metal contact when thermal breakdown and high heat conditions exist. The only negative effect involved in using Mobil-1 4T motorcycle oil is its price, its $10.00 per quart!
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Old 09-29-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoro View Post
The only negative effect involved in using Mobil-1 4T motorcycle oil is its price, its $10.00 per quart!
Not a big issue. It's a fair chunk of change out of pocket at one time, but it evens out.
It (and Amsoil) hold their viscosity well enough so that change intervals can be doubled or even tripled (assuming current change intervals of 2000-3000 miles).
That $10/qt now costs the same as $5/qt conventional oil... plus it saves you $6-$15 on the filter... and if you aren't changing your own, it saves you labor charges. Full synthetic can be cheaper than dino

Just set aside $5/week and you'll always have enough in the piggy bank when it's time for an oil change.
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Old 09-30-2009   #8 (permalink)
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I am surprised this "which oil" thread hasn't already turned into an all out war....

Just for the record, i'm not a fan of running a full synthetic in 25+ year old wet clutch motorcycles. I had major slipping issues with an old 78 CB750, and it happend right after I swapped over to Bel Ray full syn oil... then again it might have been the clutch in the first place, but swapping back to a std oil actually got the clutch grip back....
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Old 09-30-2009   #9 (permalink)
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I will just stick with my $11 a gallon Rotella T.
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Old 09-30-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawpaul View Post
I will just stick with my $11 a gallon Rotella T.
$11 a gallon?

Isn't that Rotella stuff like $11 for a 55 gal drum?

If I have to do an oil change after i've paid my mortgage, and i'm broke, I just go raid the wife's food pantry and use this stuff:
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Old 09-30-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Hey Rich, you should make the oil thread manditory reading....
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Old 09-30-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polar_Bus View Post
$11 a gallon?

Isn't that Rotella stuff like $11 for a 55 gal drum?

If I have to do an oil change after i've paid my mortgage, and i'm broke, I just go raid the wife's food pantry and use this stuff:
Where can you pick up these 55 gal drums? I will just go into the oil business.

Cooking oil not work well unless maybe you are frying chicken.

You can always over spend and buy $40 a gallon oil like the millionaires do.
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Old 09-30-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Rotella has a good synthetic too
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Old 09-30-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polar_Bus View Post
$11 a gallon?

Isn't that Rotella stuff like $11 for a 55 gal drum?

If I have to do an oil change after i've paid my mortgage, and i'm broke, I just go raid the wife's food pantry and use this stuff:
Don't laugh too hard... Saw an ad in Car & Driver for a "green" oil.
It's API-SM, and it's primary base stock is beef tallow... claims to hold up long enough to meet all auto manufacturers' maximum change interval (7,500 miles).

I'd love to shoot a sample of that to Blackstone and then send another sample after 5,000 in the cage, but as with most "green" technology, it probably costs more than Amsoil.
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Old 09-30-2009   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawpaul View Post
Cooking oil not work well unless maybe you are frying chicken.
Or adding back in the lubricity needed to keep your injector pump alive that the EPA took out when they changed Diesel to ultra-low-sulfur.
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Old 09-30-2009   #16 (permalink)
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On an older bike, I really like Shell Rottella 15w40 oil.
Thats what iuse in my old timers, and my customers to.
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Old 10-01-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLockyer View Post
Or adding back in the lubricity needed to keep your injector pump alive that the EPA took out when they changed Diesel to ultra-low-sulfur.
We had a fan that started squeaking and the wife decides to oil it and grabbed the cooking oil. I told her not to use it because the top was too big and she could not control how much to use easily. So I grabbed a bottle of ball glove oil and gave her to use.

She had to take the fan apart and oiled it as best she could. I wish they still made them with the oil holes like they used to.
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Old 10-01-2009   #18 (permalink)
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They assume you're just going to toss it and buy a new one.

A lot of fans are cheaper than a can of Tri-Flow.
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Old 10-01-2009   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah I know. Nothing quality anymore. Disposable society from razors to lighters to almost everything these days.
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Old 10-01-2009   #20 (permalink)
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Hey.... those 5 blade disposable razors make my head sexy smooth!

Curly hair, so even with a fresh shave from an electric I have as much stubble as if I haven't shaved for 24 hours.
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