Stuck Engine 1982 KZ440 LTD - Question

[register2]

Hi! Borrowing from your collective expertise, I'm trying to figure out what to do with this KZ440 I picked up. The engine is well and truly stuck, and apparently needs a rebuild. My question is: how much would it cost for someone to do this? I see lots of pistons, cylinders, etc on eBay for fairly cheap - are these the parts that would be needed? Secondly, since a 440 is a 2-cylinder engine, is this something you think I could tackle on my own? I saved $500 to put into the bike, but if that won't get it in good running condition, I'd rather sell it and get a running motorcycle. ALL opinions welcome! Thanks!

[kawpaul]

So what have you done to try and get it freed up? What indicates to you that it is infact stuck?

[register2]

Well, I haven't tried too much to work on the engine - a potential buyer tried to give it a running start and when he kicked it into gear the back tire just skidded. However, the woman I bought it from had stopped using it in July because the engine froze while she was riding it, and after bringing it into a mechanic he informed her it was stuck and had to be rebuilt. Since I don't have a garage I was going to rent space at one for a month ($200), which would leave me $300 to try and fix it myself (though I'm not beyond taking the motor out and hauling it up to my apt to work on), or to just pay someone $500 to fix the whole thing, but I don't know if it can be done that cheaply. Thanks for the feedback!

Originally Posted by kawpaul

So what have you done to try and get it freed up? What indicates to you that it is infact stuck?

[kawpaul]

It will be hard to turn the engine over like that. When I got mine I thought mine was stuck, and actually got it cheap because the PO thought so too. Turns out that is just the way a lot of kawasakis are set up.
I put it in gear and tried turning the back wheel with no luck. After asking around on here I tried turning the engine over with a socket on the crankshaft end and found it spun easily. Still would not turn over by the back wheel so I though maybe something was wrong with my transmission. However when I turned the engine over in gear the back wheel turned.
Weird.

Mine has a bolt at the right end of the crank under the cover and a larger nut beneath it. Not sure about the 440 but if it is like that do not turn it by the smaller bolt as it could twist off. Use the larger nut to try and turn it. I would remove the spark plugs before trying to make it easier to turn.

[register2]

I'm always looking to try something new, so I'll give that a try tonight. Thanks!

[MFolks]

PB Blaster,Kroil and even used Diesel engine oil have been used with varying degrees of sucess. If it's stuck rings it's possibly rebuildable, but lower end problems may be more than a few $$$.

[register2]

Thanks! I'm new to this - should I just pour the penentrating oil into where the oil normally goes, or just sort of slather it around everywhere? And just to educate me, what sort of bottom end problems might I expect to find
Thanks!

Originally Posted by MFolks

PB Blaster,Kroil and even used Diesel engine oil have been used with varying degrees of sucess. If it's stuck rings it's possibly rebuildable, but lower end problems may be more than a few $$$.

[sfair]

Boy, I hate to rain on your parade here, but, if it was going down the street when it seized, then it probably is not a penetrating oil repair. On your budget, trying to repair the engine and other work that will be required, such as brakes, tires, battery, etc. would be an extremely rough row to hoe.

If you go ahead with the project, keep us posted with your progress and good luck.

[register2]

Hey, the rest of the bike (brakes, tires, batt) are in good shape (or so I was told), it's just the engine. I'm going to try turning it over by hand to see what happens and I'll update y'all tomorrow. If it's the piston that's frozen, is there any reason not to buy replacements off of eBay and just swap them out?

Originally Posted by sfair

Boy, I hate to rain on your parade here, but, if it was going down the street when it seized, then it probably is not a penetrating oil repair. On your budget, trying to repair the engine and other work that will be required, such as brakes, tires, battery, etc. would be an extremely rough row to hoe.

If you go ahead with the project, keep us posted with your progress and good luck.

[MFolks]

Pull the sparkplugs, and squirt some PB Blaster,Kroil,Marvel Mystery Oil, or used Diesel engine oil in there, let it soak for a few days, and see if it will turn over using a wrench or kick starter(if you have one).

The wrench will be applied at the end of the crankshaft(ususally where the mechanical ignition advancer is mounted) be careful in not shearing/breaking the bolt the holds the advancer to the crank.

[sfair]

That motor, with the spark plugs out, should turn with one finger on the wrench. If it won't, do not "force" it. It may only cause more damage and your knowledge of the internal condition will not be advanced.

[antiq]

check the starter clutch. Those bolts back out and can lodge so that it seems the motor is frozen.

[register2]

Just to update y'all, I sprayed some PB Blaster in there and gave a push on the crank, but it didn't budge. Not to expose my ignorance, but could anyone let me know how I'd get at the starter clutch? Also, to give a more detailed description of what happens when I hit the starter button, I hear a high pitched electrical squeal and a click and whirring noise from the general vicinity of the starter in the engine.

Thanks!

John

[MFolks]

If your engine is similar to the bigger 4's(wild guess) the starter clutch should be under the left side engine cover. I believe on the 750 twins, the starter clutch is internally mounted, so your's might be the same.

I'd check with the more knowledgeable people at:THE KAWASAKI TWIN OWNERS FORUM :: View Forum - 400/440 Engine

[register2]

Another question: when applying pressure to the crankshaft dummy bolt, if I get movement is the auto advance mechanism supposed to move with the crank or remain stationary (I'm not sure if I moved the crank or just loosened the bolt). Thanks!

[MFolks]

The advancer should move with the rotation of the crank. If you turn the inside bolt and the engine is seized it could snap off inside the crank, so be very careful!! Avoid turning the engine backwards as it will affect the cam chain tension.

[register2]

Again exposing my complete lack of mechanical knowledge, which way is backwards (clockwise/counter clockwise)? There was a slight cracking noise (that sounded like a seal breaking), and afterwards the advancer moved with it, and I got no outward signs that I had snapped anything - I also didn't use a large amount of force.

[MFolks]

I understand the 750 twin in operation rotates counter-clockwise, I'm not sure on your bike if it's the same(this would be looking at the advancer).

[register2]

Thanks - I went with counter clockwise based on other things I've read.

[kawpaul]

The engine should spin forwards as in the same direction as the chain and wheels.