Tuning Advice for 1979 Kawasaki 1000 MK2 with Air Pods

[Downtilt]

I have a 1979 Kawasaki 1000 MK2 A3A. I have had it for 2 yrs. The values have been adjusted to spec & now I want to tune the carbs. The original setup with stock air box was: 105 Main jets, 15 Pilot jets, needle jet setting at 3, air screw at 11/8 turn. On the bike now are air pods & I want to setup the carbs correctly. Looking for advice on the correct jets to install. Thks

[zoro]

Originally Posted by Downtilt

I have a 1979 Kawasaki 1000 MK2 A3A. I have had it for 2 yrs. The values have been adjusted to spec & now I want to tune the carbs. The original setup with stock air box was: 105 Main jets, 15 Pilot jets, needle jet setting at 3, air screw at 11/8 turn. On the bike now are air pods & I want to setup the carbs correctly. Looking for advice on the correct jets to install. Thks

My comment going to go like this. I hope you still have the stock air-box. With 105 mains, your going to be rather lean with those pods, most likely too lean! Those bikes were leaned out at the factory for emissions standards with the air-box installed! You didn't indicate whether or not the the stock exhaust is still on the bike, is it? The stock MKIIs were all fitted with the VM28SS Mikuni carbs that were equipped with non adjustable needles. So if your carbs have multiple slot needles,those carbs have been worked on before. I installed a DynaJet stage three jet kit on my bike because I replaced the stock pipes with a V&H header. I tried several jets and jet needle combinations before I arrived to realizing that these 1015 MKII engines need to "breathe" in order to release their full potential and when they're breathing right,they can consume massive amounts of fuel without falling into a rich condition. Now then,the sweet spot on my bike was found after much testing and tuning along with some advice from guys on this forum and the drag strip. Im running 140 DynaJet mains,DynaJet Stage-3 needles clipped in the fourth slot (from the top) 17.5 pilots,#1 and #4 carb air-mixture screws two turns out,#2 and #3 air mixture screws 1-1/2 turns out. My plugs show a light tan even color through all four cylinders w/baffle out of the header, I do all my own carb work including vacuum synchronizing. Oh yeah, I use Super Street stainless steel pods, and Ive also removed the CAS system and installed "interior" block-off plates with APE covers. This "balanced" the exhaust flow outward instead of across the head. Ive kept ALL the factory dudads,pipes,airbox,etc. and kept the factory paint on the bike.

[Downtilt]

Excellent advice, Thanks. I applied all your setup info to the parts I could get. I installed 110 Mains, 17.5 Pilots, 4th slot on the needle jet, opened up the exhaust(the bike has 2 to 1 pipes not stock, type unknown) & setup the air with the 1/ 4 & 2/3 air setup, what a difference. When the bike had one airbox as I understand it you could sych the carbs together. I have a Morgan Carbtuner...how do you sych the carbs now that the 1/4 & 2/3 carbs have different air settings?

[zoro]

Originally Posted by Downtilt

Excellent advice, Thanks. I applied all your setup info to the parts I could get. I installed 110 Mains, 17.5 Pilots, 4th slot on the needle jet, opened up the exhaust(the bike has 2 to 1 pipes not stock, type unknown) & setup the air with the 1/ 4 & 2/3 air setup, what a difference. When the bike had one airbox as I understand it you could sych the carbs together. I have a Morgan Carbtuner...how do you sych the carbs now that the 1/4 & 2/3 carbs have different air settings?

There are two ways to sync the carbs. The first and most important synchronizing is called "bench" synchronizing and is performed while the carbs are "off" the bike. The second method is called "vacuum" synchronizing and is performed after the carbs have been reinstalled and all other tuning procedures have have been completed. If a proper bench sync has been done correctly, and valves are all within spec, and cylinder compression are all within 5psi of one another, the vacuum sync is not necessary! In fact, my Sudco-Mikuni manual warns against the vacuum sync on four carb rails with mechanical slides like mine and yours. Removing the slide body caps will compromise a true reading while attempting to do what youve done with a good bench sync! Now for those who disagree with this "fact" must first ask themselves "do I have vacuum assisted slides on VM carbs" Smoothbore carbs dont require vacuum synchronizing! They do however require a solid and tight mechanical throttle linkage. The short answer to your question is,"I dont!" Why? Because I do alot of open highway riding and knock off a v-twin every chance I get and that engine is usually drawing air at speed. And while at speed there is turbulance behind the engine that effects the intake of 2/3 differantly than 1/4! This is a consideration that escapes most pod running riders! I came to this conclusion after many attempts to tune those carbs for an even tan color reading across all four plugs. It works! Ive got a few more little tricks too! LOL! These 1015s are the are "real deal" if theyre tuned right! Good Luck! And keep us updated! Oh yeah, how many slots do your needles have?

[Downtilt]

I have been riding my KZ1000 more then my Mean Streak lately....my needles have 5 slots.

[zoro]

Originally Posted by Downtilt

I have been riding my KZ1000 more then my Mean Streak lately....my needles have 5 slots.

That MKII should eat that Meanie's lunch! LOL....Good Luck! Keep us updated!

[Downtilt]

If the MK2 will take my Mean Steak then I still have some work to do on the MK2. When I go up through the gears there is still some hesitation like it is still looking for more gas, if I snap the throttle there is not a quick response....do you think I should move the clip to the 5th position on the needle jet?

[zoro]

Originally Posted by Downtilt

If the MK2 will take my Mean Steak then I still have some work to do on the MK2. When I go up through the gears there is still some hesitation like it is still looking for more gas, if I snap the throttle there is not a quick response....do you think I should move the clip to the 5th position on the needle jet?

Do you have a header on the bike?

[zoro]

FYI, Before we get too deep into carb tuning issues, I would like you to check valve clearances and take a compression check(while throttle is wide open) and post the readings,Please. Which slot is the e-clip in now?

[sbc1320]

I bought the Morgantune to sync my carbs and I love it. Very easy to work with and my bike idled a lot smoother. Will be rechecking after I put the topend back together as I had some blowby when warmed up and also a miss at cruise with some backfiring coming thru #4 carb. Looks like a burnt valve on #4 intake. Head is presently in machine shop for a valve job. I did shim the valves, didn't even do a compression check as I was tearing top end down anyways. Out of commission for a while, but oh well. Good luck with yours and you will be liking that Morgantune.