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#1 (permalink) |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3
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Just bought a 1979 kz 200 with 2300 miles, very clean well maintained, not running. Machine is all original but has not been run since 1986 cranks and has strong compression. Heres what i have: strong compression, fuel, power to left and right turn signal, horn, and starter motor. What i don't have : spark, power to headlight & brake light neutral light does not come on. My questions is this problem beyond a coil/plug wire ? does the fact that i have no head brake or neutral lights mean i have a bigger problem, or could the bulbs just be bad as its been sitting for over 20 years? i really would like to see this bike on the road any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you -
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#5 (permalink) |
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Third Gear And Gaining
BTK Intermediate
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Western New York
Posts: 133
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Let's go after spark 1st. The two small wires going to the ignition coil are the primary side of the coils. One of those wires should have 12 volts with the key & kill switches (yes, off/run/off) on. The other wire goes to the points which will ground the wire as the crank rotates & complete the circuit. So check for 12 volts to one of wires (Red/yellow?). Then check continuity to the other wire (black?) as you slowly kick the engine over.
If you have 12 volts but not continuity then try cleaning the points & retry. Let us know what you find & we'll continue.
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1976 KZ900-A4 Last edited by Mike900 : 10-04-2009 at 10:49 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Needs A Real Job
BTK Expert
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Springfield Mo
Posts: 3,509
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On most Kawasaki's, the right handlebar has a switch housing with a run/stop switch. This controls the power to the ignition coil(s).
The older glass tubed fuses can look good but have failed internally, only by either using a multimeter set on ohms,a self powered test light, or checking the fuse metal end caps for tightness can you determine if the fuse is still good.
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Mike Folks |
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#7 (permalink) |
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GHOSTRIDER
Forum Supporter
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You have an ignition switch,thats where the key goes, and theres a small on/off switch on the right handle bar, near the grip that energizes the ignition system once the key is on. Thats the "kill switch". It sounds like a dirty or corroded ignition switch to me. Spray some electrical contact cleaner into the back of the switch and rotate the key back and forth to clean contacts inside the electrical portion of the ignition switch, repeat if necessary and follow up with WD-40 throughout the switch. DO NOT ALLOW CONTACT CLEANER TO DRIP OR SPRAY ONTO PAINTED SURFACES!
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"GHOSTRIDER" 1980 KZ1000ST-E2 |
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