GPz1100a2 Rotor damage?

[droptail]

Any guess how my generator rotor looked like it lost a chunk?
The charging leads coming out of the cover were leaking so I took it apart. Looks like the rubber was leaking at the cover. Is this typical?

thanks

[MFolks]

The rubber grommets on these older bikes can leak over time. The heat/cooling cycle ages the rubber and it looses the ability to seal well.

Look here:Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Product Catalog

You'll have to do some minor wiring work as the bullet connectors will have to be sniped off, the wires fed through the new grommet, and new ends crimped on.

This website carries a lot of special Japanese connectors:Bullet Connectors

[QKENUF4U]

the magnets can break apart from age........

[MFolks]

I think the adhesive(glue) they used is starting to get brittle and fail. I've heard/read the same kind of problem was happening on the bikes with rear drum brakes. The brake shoes were getting loose and possibly locking up the rear wheel.

[droptail]

I tried to pull the leads through the gromet, but they were secure. So I believe it was leaking ouround the gromet/cover where silicone is applied. I also tried to spray carb cleaner thru the gromet/leads holes, but it didn't go through. So I might just re-silicone the old gromet down. Thoughts?

I'm now looking for a replacement rotor, and am concerned where the chips went. Have changed/flushed the oil about (5) times now and didn't look/see any debris. If they were magnetic, where would they be sticking? I suppose that explains why it died back when. Its been running great since the rebuild. Need I drop the pan? I'll post a pic of the failure when I pull apart the stator. Will it separate easily?

Thanks

[MFolks]

Try this:

Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s

Source for replacement Stators
A. ElectroSport Industries - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV Aftermarket Electrical Parts (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. Custom Rewind -- High Quility Remanufactured Motorsports Electronics, Rotors, Stators, Ignition Systems
C. www.rmstator.com
D. ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼” and 3/8” ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.Most replacement alternators have the rubber plug or grommet installed on the wiring.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexiglass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum
Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three YELLOW wires, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

[keith1]

Originally Posted by droptail

I tried to pull the leads through the gromet, but they were secure. So I believe it was leaking ouround the gromet/cover where silicone is applied. I also tried to spray carb cleaner thru the gromet/leads holes, but it didn't go through. So I might just re-silicone the old gromet down. Thoughts?

I'm now looking for a replacement rotor, and am concerned where the chips went. Have changed/flushed the oil about (5) times now and didn't look/see any debris. If they were magnetic, where would they be sticking? I suppose that explains why it died back when. Its been running great since the rebuild. Need I drop the pan? I'll post a pic of the failure when I pull apart the stator. Will it separate easily?

Thanks

they usually dont leak where the wires run through, but around the outer perimeter where the grommet slides in......i did mine last year and no leaks...
not a hard job....re-doing the wiring is the longest part.....you can silicone all ya want, its still will leak....the grommet is cheap and all ya need is a crimping tool and the right bullet connectors and some heat shrink or electrical tape.......keith

[MFolks]

I believe that Bullet Connectors sells the correct sized bullet connectors and also the crimping tool.

[droptail]

Originally Posted by keith1

they usually dont leak where the wires run through, but around the outer perimeter where the grommet slides in......i did mine last year and no leaks...
not a hard job....re-doing the wiring is the longest part.....you can silicone all ya want, its still will leak....the grommet is cheap and all ya need is a crimping tool and the right bullet connectors and some heat shrink or electrical tape.......keith

Thanks for the info guys. I will replace the grommet rather than re-seal. You've saved me a job. Wire connections aren't a prob for me. I was concerned the wires would leak in the new grommet. Guess not.

I already had the stator off. I meant I reinstalled it without screws just to put the cover back on temporarily and am concerned about separating the magnets by hand now.

Now to find a rotor.

James