82 GPz 1100 rebuild project

[gbaronetxcr]

Started a project for a friend and myself. My buddy wanted to find and older bike and maybe swap front / rear ends to updated tire size and braking.
He found this old girl in good shape and ask I turn the wrenchs and ride it for a bit as I'm bikeless and he has a couple already. Downside it came as a frame and bout 5 boxes of parts.





Waiting for the top end to come from the machine shop, and should the the motor back together shortly.
Does'nt look bad for an old girl.

[kawpaul]

She cleaned up real nice.

I have a friend who has a couple bikes and offered to let me ride one of his until I get mine going. I have not taken him up on it because usually when he is going riding I am working on mine. I hope to have mine on the road in a day or two. Chomping at the bit.

[Mcdroid]

Hello gbaronetxcr! Nice find...the B2's are getting fairly uncommon in good shape. To see what can be done with suspension, check out www.kz1000r.com as a number of members have made upgrades to their bikes (the 1000R is similar in looks and stance to the early GPz's).

[63Ronin]

Hi all...

Sort of a generic Q here... but how tough is it to do a front end swap? Obviously older bikes had head stocks that were different in length than newer bikes have. How do you get around this?

[ratvespa]

Originally Posted by 63Ronin

Hi all...

Sort of a generic Q here... but how tough is it to do a front end swap? Obviously older bikes had head stocks that were different in length than newer bikes have. How do you get around this?

it really depends on the bike. the way I start is first check the bearing sizes of whats in the bike vs the front end you are putting on. honda was really good about keeping it the same, I managed to swap a CBR954RR front end on to a 91 hawk 650 with no problems, the only thing I had to change is drill and tap some holes in the bump stops to change where the steering lock is.


my boss did a swap on his older GS1000 with a GSXR600 front end, he ended up pressing the threaded tube out of the stock GS lower tripple and pressing it into the GSXR lower tripple and that worked for him. some times, if you are lucky the tube length will be the same, and most you will have to do is find some tappered bearings that fit the ID of your necktubes race and the OD of the tripple clamps tube. it's all trial and error.

[kopcicle]

38 mm fork tubes
38 Honda CR-125R (81-83)
38 Honda XR-250R (84-85)
38 Kawasaki KX-80R2/R3/R4/R5/R6/R7 (92-97)
38 Kawasaki KX-125 A6-A7 (80-81)
38 Kawasaki KDX-200 A1-A3 (83-85)
38 Kawasaki KX-250 A5-A7 (79-81)
38 Kawasaki KDX-400 A1-A2 (79-80)
38 Kawasaki KX-420 A1-A2 (80-81)
38 Kawasaki KL-600A1 "KLR" (84)
38 Kawasaki ZX-600C1-C6 "Ninja" (88-93)
38 Kawasaki ZX-600C7-C10 "Ninja 600R" (94-97)
38 Kawasaki KL-650A1-A18 "KLR650" (87-04)
38 Kawasaki VN-700A1 "Vulcan" (85)
38 Kawasaki VN-750A2-A20 "Vulcan" (86-04)
38 Kawasaki ZX-750F1-F4 "Ninja" (87-90)
38 Kawasaki ZL-900A1/A2 "Eliminator" (85-86)
38 Kawasaki ZX-900A1-A3 "Ninja" (84-86)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000C1-C4 "Police" (78-81)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000J1-J3 (81-83)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000K1/K2 "Ltd" (81-82)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000P1-P20 "Police" (82-01)
38 Kawasaki ZL-1000A1 (87)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1100A1-A3 (81-83)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1100B1/B2 "GP" (81-82)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1100D1/D2 "Spectre" (82-83)
38 Kawasaki ZN-1100B1/B2 "Ltd" (84-85)
38 Suzuki RM-125 N/T/X/Z (79-82)
38 Suzuki RM-125 D (83)
38 Suzuki PE-175 Z/D/E (82-84)
38 Suzuki RM-250 N/T/X/Z (79-82)
38 Suzuki RM-400N/T (79-80)
38 Suzuki LS-650 FG/PG/FH/PH/PJ (86-8
38 Suzuki LS-650 PS/PT/PV/PW/PX/PY/PK1/PK2/PK3 "Savage" (95-03)
38 Yamaha YZ-125 H/J/K (81-83)
38 Yamaha IT-175 J (82)
38 Yamaha IT-175 K (83)
38 Yamaha IT-250 H/J (81-82)
38 Yamaha YZ-250 D/E/F/G (77-80)
38 Yamaha FZR-400 U/SUC/W/SWC (88-89)
38 Yamaha FZR-400 A/SAC (90)
38 Yamaha YZ-400 D/E/F (77-79)
38 Yamaha IT-465 H (81)
38 Yamaha IT-465 J (82)
38 Yamaha YZ-465 G (80)
38 Yamaha XT-550 J/K (82-83)
38 Yamaha FZR-600 W/WC/AC/B/BC (89-91)
38 Yamaha FZR-600 RA/RAC/RB/RBC/RD/RDC/RE/REC (90-93)
38 Yamaha FZR-600 RF/RFC/RG/RGC/RH/RHC/RJ/RJC (94-97)
38 Yamaha XJ-600 SD/SDC/SE/SEC/SF/SFC/SG/SGC "Seca II" (92-96)
38 Yamaha XJ-600 SH/SHC/SJ/SJC "Seca II" (96-97)
38 Yamaha FZX-700S/SC/T/TC (86-87)
38 Yamaha XJ-700N/NC/S/SC "Maxim" (85-86)
38 Yamaha XJ-700 XN/XNC/XS/XSC "Maxim" (85-86)
38 Yamaha XV-700L/LC/N/NC "Virago" (84-85)
38 Yamaha XV-700CS/CSC/CT/CTC "Virago" (86-87)
38 Yamaha XV-700 J1/J1C (97)
38 Yamaha XV-750 U/UC/W/WC/A/AC/B/BC "Virago" (88-91)
38 Yamaha XV-750 D/DC/E/EC/F/FC/G/GC/H1/H1C/J1/J1C "Virago" (92-97)
38 Yamaha XV-1000 L/LC/N/NC "Virago" (84-85)
38 Yamaha XV-1100 S/SC/T/TC/U/UC "Virago" (86-8
38 Yamaha XV-1100 W/WC/A/AC/B/BC/D/DC/E/EC "Virago" (89-93)

I didn't bother to edit but obviously the dirt bikes arn't what you want and such as the virago are scrap from the word go but the zx600 as far as 97 and the fzr's might be to your liking .

~kop

[gbaronetxcr]

Thanks for the info.

The Kz/Zx is the style we were going for with twin shock rear, under swingawm support etc.

I'll post more when we get the motor parts back and ready to assemble.
Tank will be off shortly to get coated, and the Wolf header should be painted this week.

[MFolks]

If the Fi still works, I have a pin out of what wire color and where they go from the computer:

1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pinout

I got out my well used service manual and copied the wire pin-out if you are going to use the EFI system.


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal

If the injectors are not too badly gummed up the best way to check them would be to apply no more than 3 volts D.C. using a 3 volt light bulb as a current limiter. I use a self powered test light when checking my injectors.

A website for injector cleaning: WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

[gbaronetxcr]

Plan is to use the fuelie. Understand the 82 was better than the 81 from what I've read. If the fuelie sucks will hunt for carbs. Know my way around carbs pretty good.
I've cleaned up the throttle body best I could. Good point on testing them though. Think I have a local guy that can test, used him when building a SC Jeep checking fuel flow.
Everything was stored apart, no expecting they would be buggered.
Thanks for the pin out.

Do you have a couple pages for the engine timing while installing the cams? Suppose to get the service guide but not seen it yet.

[MFolks]

I have a shop manual when I bought my 82 GPz 1100 B2. It covers about everything regarding the entire bike(colored wiring diagrams and troubleshooting guides).

Go here for a PDF parts catalog for the 81 and 82 GPz's(look under downloads). The 82 GPz's had the injectors moved to the throttle bodies to get out of the heat the 81's had: Classic Kawasaki Sweden

[MFolks]

A few more FI facts on the B2 model:

Fuel pump pressure is 33 PSI at idle and as soon as the Throttle Position Sensor(it has DFI on it) moves, the pump pressure will be 35 PSI.

If the FI is bad I understand that BS 34 carbs will work. I think Sudco sells them. The fuel return valve(on the bottom of the tank ) may have to be moved/plugged for carbs to fit. And the fuel petcock may also need relocating for carbs too.

Here's some cam specs:

GPZ1100 B1/B2 Cam Specs


1981 KZ1100 B1 Gpz:

Intake:

Duration: 280 - Lift: 8,4 mm - Open: 35 BTDC - Close: 65 ABDC

Exhaust:

Duration: 280 - Lift 8,8 mm - Open: 68 BBDC - Close: 32 ATDC

I'm not 100% sure, but I think these cams are also used on KZ1000J/R1 models.

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1982 KZ1100 B2 GPz:

Intake:

Duration: 288 - Lift: 8,8 mm - Open: 34 BTDC - Close 74 ABDC

Exhaust:

Duration: 288 - Lift: 8,8 mm - Open 72 BBDC - Close 36 ATDC

I believe these cams are also used on the KZ1000R2.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I use a very good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit D5 caig.com - Home of DeoxIT - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. on my bike to treat all the electrical switches and connectors. It can be bought at Radio Shack stores and any other electronic supply stores.