KZ900 - APE "Extra plate" clutch kit - clunks going into firtst

[DrKayak]

My KZ900 clunks bad going into 1st. I keep the idle real low and adjusted as much slack out of the cable as possible. Still it clunks bad going into first. So bad that I often kill it, drop it into first, then restart it.

Any input as to if this is related to the APE "Extra plate" clutch kit I put it it when I restored it?

I do not have a second 900 for referance. My 750 twin is all stock and does not clunk at all.

[zoro]

Originally Posted by DrKayak

My KZ900 clunks bad going into 1st. I keep the idle real low and adjusted as much slack out of the cable as possible. Still it clunks bad going into first. So bad that I often kill it, drop it into first, then restart it.

Any input as to if this is related to the APE "Extra plate" clutch kit I put it it when I restored it?

I do not have a second 900 for referance. My 750 twin is all stock and does not clunk at all.

Whats up Doc! I went through my Clymer KZ-900 manual and it does not give a plate count so I looked in my Kawasaki manual and there it was, 9 friction plates and 8 steel plates! However, these numbers are for a 1980 KZ-1000 1015cc engine. I know the pre 79 KZ-900 and KZ-1000 clutch assemblies were identical, I dont know if the 79-80, 1015 clutch plate count is the same. Ill bet you can get a quick decisive answer at KZRider.com. I hope this helps.

[Jeff.saunders]

When you installed the new clutch pack, did you reset the adjuster behind the pear shaped cover on the sprocket cover (LH side of engine)?

You need to undo the adjuster nut, back the adjuster screw out until it's loose, then thread it in until you feel pressure and back it off 1/4 turn and tighten the nut up again.

[StarGate]

I've got the same clutch and with 20w-50 oil and the engine semi cold it clunks a bit and tries to die. If I wait 2-3 min for the oil to warm up it's not a problem and once it's at norm op temp it is fine.

[DrKayak]

Originally Posted by Jeff.saunders

When you installed the new clutch pack, did you reset the adjuster behind the pear shaped cover on the sprocket cover (LH side of engine)?

You need to undo the adjuster nut, back the adjuster screw out until it's loose, then thread it in until you feel pressure and back it off 1/4 turn and tighten the nut up again.

You bet, I have tweaked that adjustment dozens of times in 1/16 of a turn increments trying to get as much travel as possible when you pull the clutch.

I think clutch cable stretch is an issue too. I think those Motion Pro cables are not that great. Tried to track down a Barnett cable for the 900 and could not find anyone who sold it.

So am I going to eventualy damage the gears clunking it like this? It's my daily rider with 50k miles. Not the best clutch setup for a daily rider?

[DrKayak]

Originally Posted by StarGate

I've got the same clutch and with 20w-50 oil and the engine semi cold it clunks a bit and tries to die. If I wait 2-3 min for the oil to warm up it's not a problem and once it's at norm op temp it is fine.

Mine did it much worse with 20w50. I have to agree with Jeff, the 900 does better on 10w40. I will never put 20w50 in mine again.

It's only a big deal going from neutral to first. If you go past neutral coming up to a stop you can make it shift pretty quiet.

[steell]

I think clutch cable stretch is an issue too. I think those Motion Pro cables are not that great.

That's for sure!!
79 KZ750B, 82 KZ1000 CSR, and 85 GPz750 Turbo are all now using stock OEM cables, those Motion Pro cables weren't lasting even 3 months.
See if the stock OEM cable is still available for your bike, if it is, grab it!

[DrKayak]

Originally Posted by steell

Motion Pro cables weren't lasting even 3 months.

Sounds familiar, The first one I put on this 900 lasted 3 months. I had the joy of riding home without stopping or going to 1st. .. made it.

Clutch travel is a big issue on my SuperMoto. Add a few milimeters of cable stretch and it shifts like crap. With a high quality cable, perfect adjustment and the right oil you can not even feal it shift.

[Norseman10]

Steell, not meaning to hi-jack DrKayak thread, but I noticed you said you were running OEM clutch cable on your 82 KZ1000CSR. I have a Motion Pro on my 81 KZ1000CSR, and not happy about it (in addition, I'm also getting severe clunk when going from neutral into first), so I was wondering where you get your OEM cables from? Local dealerships can prob get them, but I don't cherish their pricing...

[coppertales]

I have ever had/own clunk when going from N to first.......Just don't stomp on the shift lever so hard......chris3

[steell]

There's a tall guy that talks funny and goes by the name of Jeff Saunders that owns a place called Z1 Enterprises that can get one for you, just be sure and specify OEM. He posted earlier in this thread.

Ron Ayers is another place you can get them, along with Bike Bandit (aptly named).

I use all three.



Edit:
Figured that I'd better explain that Jeff knows me from other forums and from the 100's of times he's run my credit card, and is unlikely to take offence at my description of him

[Norseman10]

Thanks, Steell, i wasn't aware that the cables were that readily available, my assumptions and all that...

Though I imagine Jeff probably thinks some of us talk funny too. Although he can say stuff with a British accent, and we can't. If he reads this, he'll most likely be amused (Right, Jeff?).

-Walter-

[DrKayak]

Originally Posted by coppertales

I have ever had/own clunk when going from N to first.......Just don't stomp on the shift lever so hard......chris3

Yea, IMO one of the gears is spinning which is why it clunks. If you drop it in too slow it just grinds. If the clutch would fully disengage this would not happen..

This week I have been riding with all the slack taken out on the handlbar adjustment. It shifts much better.

My question - Is the APE clutch pack a few mm thicker than OE and making this behavior worse?

My 750 twin does not clunk at all. But.. I have heard tons of newer bikes do it at stop lights. Add a poorly adjusted dry chain and it sounds brutal. Most riders don't apear to care...

[zoro]

Hi Doc, the 76 900 has 7-steel, and 8-friction plates. Did the APE plate assembly match that count? One has to take into account that wear in the various disengagement components (ball,pushrod,spring plate,etc) will further limit the disengagement tolerance. New plates installed in a worn clutch assembly will cause the clutch to remain spinning by not fully disengaging. The first thing I would do is start counting plates and measuring overall plate assembly thicknesses and compare new to old.

[DrKayak]

Originally Posted by zoro

the 76 900 has 7-steel, and 8-friction plates. Did the APE plate assembly match that count?

No, that's where the "extra plate" in the names comes from. They have thinned down the friction plates to get in one extra friction plate and an extra steel... " APE clutch kits feature an extra friction plate for 14% more clutch surface...."

I also have the APE NEEDLE BEARING CLUTCH PUSHER..

I was just looking for input as to this being a know issue. I do not want to tear into the clutch unless I have information that putting stock friction plates in will solve the issue.

I have restored 3 bikes this year.. I'm a little burnt on working on them for now.