82 Spectre Carb Removal / Cleaning Questions

[sakiguy]

Greetings,

I am trying to remove these carbs so I can clean them using the lemon juice method.

I've actually been able to loosen the carbs but there is a cable that I do not know how to remove. It appears from looking at my manual this is the throttle valve adjuster. Apparently this synchronizes the vacuum. I'd like to remove this without messing up the current setting on it. Here is a pic:



Also I removed the stock air filter. I've never seen an air filter look like this. Should I keep this or should I get an aftermarket one.

[MFolks]

That's a non Kawasaki air cleaner in the picture. Kawasaki's for the most part are paper.

[sakiguy]

Any ideas on how to remove that cable?

[herk]

That may be a stock type of air cleaner element - not really sure though. In addition to the filter element, the parts diagrams also show an element holder that the filter fits over. As for the cable, I'd guess that you're supposed to loosen the nut that's against the bracket, unscrew the barrel, then remove the cable end. Not that it matters here, but it might help to mention what Spectre it is. I'm assuming it's a 750N.

[sakiguy]

Yes, it's a 750N. Guess I'll just buy a K&N filter then. I suppose I need to find some info on how to properly adjust it if I'm going to unscrew that nut. Perhaps I should put some markings on the bolt. I can't seem to see where the end of the cable attatches to. I'm thinking that that bracket somehow is able to detatch from the carbs without having to mess with that lock nut or barrell.

[herk]

The diagrams at Kawasaki.com may help. Do the Search-by-Model-Info without entering a vin or anything. Click continue then choose a year only. Then pick a bike from the list.

I would think that the throttle cable simply opens the butterfly plate, so it ought to be a simple matter to readjust.

[StarGate]

There should be 2 nuts. One above the bracket and one below. If you really want to get the carbs out w/o removing the bracket or you are worried about loosening the nut, you could disconnect the cable on the grip end and feed the whole cable down through the bike as you pull the carbs out with the cable still attached to them. The nuts are only to do basic cable slack adjustment then do the fine adjustment at the grip so I wouldn't worry about loosening the nuts. It's a lot of work to do it the other way.

P.S. It's a lot easier to remove the cable is you get some slack in the cable then slide the carbs out to one side enough to allow you to reach in and disconnect it all. And don't forget to reconnect it in the same manner before you seat the carbs in the boots because it's almost impossible to hook it all up after the carbs are in place.

[kawpaul]

My bike carries a filter like that one so I would just wash it good and lightly oil it and re-use. I pulled my carbs out the side before removing the cable and then unhooked it. It was as simple as pie that way. That was when I had to take them off after installing them and hooking up the cable with the carbs already on. That was not too bad either but it is easier to pull the carbs to the side first.
Not sure how much slack your cable has though.

[sakiguy]

Yes, there is not enough cable slack to pull the carbs to the side unfortunately. I guess it's just really tough to find that nut on the bottom of the bracket which is making things difficult.

Will a K&N filter likely help my bike breathe better than the foam filter / add performance. If so I suppose I wouldn't mind spending $45.

[kawpaul]

I have never used a K&N but I think you have to oil them too. Your filter looked fine, save your money.

Unhooking the cable...sorry I am no help there. Mine does not have a nut on it. It just slips in and connects to the linkage.

[sakiguy]

Ok, well I just loosened up the bolts like you guys said, and that gave me enough slack to kind of angle it out a bit and disconnect the cable from the linkage. So carbs are off.

Now what do you guys think I should do about cleaning the carbs. I am afraid of taking it apart. Can I get away with just taking off the plastic tops and spraying carb cleaner in there? Will boiling it in lemon juice take the black paint off? I don't know man, I'm wondering if I can do this, as I'm afraid of perhaps doing something wrong.

Basically I am looking for the easiest method. I'd rather not take them all the way apart if I don't have to. If you can recommend what cleaner to use, etc. let me know. Also if I do have to take them apart do you think I should go ahead and buy some rebuild kits on ebay? They seem cheap and perhaps they will help.

[kawpaul]

You are not going to clean them that way. You will have to remove them from the bike and remove the float bowls and clean them. There are several threads on here on how to clean them and if you get in trouble there is someone on here who can help out.

I have even seen a youtube video on carb cleaning.

[sakiguy]

Alright man, thanks, I guess I better start studying up first before I start taking these things apart.

[kawpaul]

You might want to have a look at this.
Dan's Motorcycle

[sakiguy]

I'm starting to wonder if these carbs are my problem. Everything looks clean after opening one up:





Which one exactly is the pilot jet. My manual isn't too helpful at all. It has exploded views but it doesn't exactly give a view of the parts like above, and pin point each part. I get a rough idle and I think perhaps I should just focus on cleaning the pilot jet since the rest looks clean?. What do you guys think? Would I have to sync the carbs if I remove the pilot jet to clean it?

[MFolks]

I'd think only if the carbs are torn all the way down would sync be required(it adjusts the air flow through the carbs so they balance).

I believe the main jet is in the center with the other jet being the pilot jet(could be wrong).

Have you checked the input voltage to the ignition coils? It should be almost battery voltage. Fully charge the battery, remove the tank, and with the key on and the run/stop switch to run check with a multimeter at the primary(small wires) side of the coils.

If it's down around 8-10 volts, your bike has a voltage/current drop affecting the spark energy. These older bikes get corrosion in the switches and electrical connections causing low spark output.

Go to wiredgeorge motorcycle carburetors - Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Carburetor Sales, Rebuilding and Restoration - Home and read up on doing a popular modification using a 12 volt car relay bypassing aged wiring.

Here's some carb related websites that might help:
1.NRP - Motorcycle carburettor spares
2.Motorcyclecarbs Carburetors, Carburetor Parts and Carburetor Restoration
3.Carburetor Parts Warehouse
4.Carb Kit Capital - Motorcycle Carb Parts
5.www.pjmotorsports.com
6.Jets R Us JETSRUS
7.motorcycle windshield and handlebar, mirrors,turn signals, tools and more from sportingforless

[StarGate]

Originally Posted by sakiguy

I'm starting to wonder if these carbs are my problem. Everything looks clean after opening one up:

When gasoline is formulated there are several other things that are added to it in this process to get the "blend" that they are selling at the pump. When the base liquid evaporates it leaves behind some of these "added" items which solidify and become what we call "varnish". Now, imagine taking a 1 oz. and a 1 gal. containers and filling both with gas and setting them out in the hot sun. Obviously the 1 oz container is going to completely evaporate and be empty and dry long before the 1 gal container even gets close to drying up. While the 1 oz container would only contain the things left behind as the gas evaporated, the additives that are left behind by whatever amount evaporates out of the 1 gal. container are absorbed into the remaining liquid that still remains.

This 1 oz. to 1 gal. comparison is like comparing your carbs jets/passageways to the bowl, with the bowl being = to the 1 gal container. So just because the bowl or other parts of the carb that you can "see" look very clean, that doesn't mean the really important parts are also that clean.

[kawpaul]

Originally Posted by sakiguy

I'm starting to wonder if these carbs are my problem. Everything looks clean after opening one up:





Which one exactly is the pilot jet. My manual isn't too helpful at all. It has exploded views but it doesn't exactly give a view of the parts like above, and pin point each part. I get a rough idle and I think perhaps I should just focus on cleaning the pilot jet since the rest looks clean?. What do you guys think? Would I have to sync the carbs if I remove the pilot jet to clean it?

I am pretty sure the pilot jet is under that plastic cap.

[StarGate]

Originally Posted by kawpaul

I am pretty sure the pilot jet is under that plastic cap.

I suspected the same thing because the ones I see seem to be pretty big to be pilot jets but I've never worked on that model carb so I wasn't sure.

[zoro]

Originally Posted by kawpaul

I am pretty sure the pilot jet is under that plastic cap.

At the risk of stepping on my buddies toes, and I apologize, but the pilot jet is "left" or counterclockwise of the plastic plug that is covering the pilot air fuel mixture screw. The main jet can always be identified as its location will center-up with the main jet needle hanging from the slide. The main jet will also be located "deeper" in the float bowl to siphon fuel when the fuel level in the float bowls drop slightly when throttle operation goes beyond 1/4 throttle and especially when you roll into WOT during a pass or just opening that baby up! My buddies are old school dinosaurs and the "plastic" stuff is what threw them! LOL! "Alright Then"