KZ 1000 P dead battery ?

[tireater]

The bike would not start after a ride. The battery had 0 volts?
Do you think the vibration broke a wire inside the battery ?

[MFolks]

Checked the ground wires? For a good current transfer, the Negative(-) battery terminal must be clean and tight, and the same for where it goes to the engine mounting bolt. I suppose you checked at the battery terminals? Every thing clean and tight?

Her's a good troubleshooting procedure:
Fault Finding Guide - Motorcycle Electrical Fault Finding Chart - ElectroSport

[tireater]

I pulled the battery out - It measures 0 volts ...It was fully charged when I started riding and only went 40 miles.
I cleaned all the connections when I put the new battery in. It's only 3 months old with 600 miles on it ... ?
This was a standard lead/acid battery. I ordered another one with glass mat lead/acid online today...

[MFolks]

If you can get 3-5 years out of a bike battery, consider yourself lucky. Bike batteries put up with poor charging systems,vibration, & poor maintenance by the bike owners.

Sounds to me your charging system needs inspection. The alternator should put out 50 volts A.C. with the regulator/rectifier converting it to 14.5 volts D.C. at 4000 rpm.

I may have already posted this, but for those people with z1's,Kz 900's,Kz1000's and Kz1100's, here's troubleshooting, remove & replace procedures:

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s ,GPz1100’s
And possibly the 750’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Quality New Parts for Vintage Japanese Street Motorcycles sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.




Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. Fault Finding Guide - Motorcycle Electrical Fault Finding Chart - ElectroSport
B. CUSTOMREWIND.COM
C. http://www.rmstator.com/index
D. www.regulatorrectifier.com
E. Oregon motorcycle Parts Home Page (Rectifier/ Regulators Only)

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

[MFolks]

Check the electrical connectors too, for signs of overheating(melted, burned wiring and connector pins) When my alternator stator(the wire windings) went out, I lost one of the three phases and the main electrical connector to the fuse block was affected along with the connector to the regulator/rectifier.

[tireater]

Thanks for all the info Mike ... That should keep me busy for awhile ... )

[MFolks]

I'm a former Californian myself(El Cajon) east of San Diego. My wife and I moved here almost 9 years ago, I don't miss the crowding, crime & traffic congestion.

[tireater]

S.B is a santuary city for illegals. Moving 500 miles North VERY soon ... 10 acrea and good fences works for me !

[tireater]

Got the new battery in and a test ride showed the battery is not charging (I will test it tomorrow) ...
If I need another stator - Can I get a new one for $69 off e bay ? or should I try and find a better one ?

[MFolks]

I'd be suspicious of any electrical item on E-Bay. If I was going to replace my bikes stator, I'd use what www.electrosport.com sells, or the others I listed.

[tireater]

So I pulled off the plug with 6 pins and the yellow wires. Reved it up and had no AC on any of the yellow wire combos ...
About that time the bike stopped running. I put in new plugs but it is dead to the world - What happened ?

[MFolks]

No A.C. output means to me: 1.Bad solder connections/crimps on the stator windings, or 2. All three phases are burned out(unlikely), as usually 1 or more still works. I'd open up the alternator cover(the housing by the shifter) and take a look inside. Hopefully, it's simple repair(bad crimp/solder connection) You'll see soon enough if the windings are blackened indicating burned out.

[tireater]

Thanks for the reply - I don't know if I can check resistance between the yellow wires with the bike not running
They were all the same and low ...There was no path to ground between any of the 3 wires ...

[MFolks]

Meters will use an internal battery when doing resistance checks; never have the meter set for ohm or resistance checks if the circuit will be energized, as you can "Smoke" the meter. Only with the meter set for VAC(Volts, Alternating Current) probably the range of 200(that's the maximum for that range) will it have an indication of AC current/voltage.

[tireater]

On the lowest scale I get .7 ohms between any combo of wires - I guess it's shot

[MFolks]

I see what looks like burned wiring on some of the phases. If it was me, i'd be seeing who can rewind the stator(if possible).

Stators, Regulators & Rectifiers
http://www.rmstator.com/index
ACCEL Motorcycle brand | Part #: 152435
www.electrosport.com
Kawasaki 77/78 1000A. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...d=&mmyId=10274
Kawasaki 79 1000ST.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...Id=&mmyId=1656
CUSTOMREWIND.COM
www.regulatorrectifier.com
ACCEL Motorcycle, Performance Products for V-Twin and Metric Motorcycles
Tim Parrott Enterprises (Tim Parrott Enterprises)

[tireater]

I think all the windings have burnt marks on them.
The 3 connectors were soaked in oil - maybe from a prev. leak I fixed on the cam adjuster ...

[MFolks]

I suspect all three phases are shot(burned out) as you can get no voltage when the engine is at 4000 rpm(should have at least 50 Volts A.C.). Look carefully at the electrical connectors going to the fuse panel and the regulator/rectifier for signs of melting/burned pins.

When my bikes stator when out, I lost one of the three phases, and the battery was discharging. After replacing my stator, I had to repair the mentioned connectors for a good connection.


Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !! Or if the meter shows nothing, an open circuit, indicating broken/melted connection(wire or crimp).

[tireater]

The yellow wires are not grounded or shorted to each other. Do I have to unbolt the battery box and fuse box to check the rectifier ?

[MFolks]

Something shorted out the stator, I suspect the regulator/rectifier went bad, and yes, you'll have to remove parts to get to the reg/rect. It's mounted in the same place on my bike. This place here, offers lifetime warrenty's on some of the reg/rect.'s: Oregon motorcycle Parts Home Page (not sure they have stators)