Waaaay Too Tight

[buck484]

While I wait for a response about my coil readings,I decided to check every thing and clean as much as I could. Is there a way to remove these bolts without messing up the phillips head on each? I plan on changing to allen head if I ever get them to budge. I have tried tapping on the screwdriver and I have an older impact driver but these bolts seem welded in there. I have the ones on the brake fluid resevoir that look like the PO tried taking off and the heads are really bad. What next, easy out or just drill them? I was worried about chips falling in and messing something else up. Seems to be my method lately.. Thanks for any info

[martin-csr]

.

[buck484]

Thanks Martin, I'll try the Kroil if I can find it. I used the PBBlaster and didn't even budge. I've seen some types of screw extractors but don't know which is best. Any ideas? Thanks again

[Baitis]

Get a hand impact and a quality bit assortment - it's probably the #1 tool everyone should have if they own a bike. The shock wave created prevents damage to most fasteners.

[Ericthejet]

I have had the most luck with the hand held impact driver ($10-20) and a dead blow mallet.

[Bill Frazier]

Since the master cylinder is mounted on the handlebars, and the handlebars have rubber mounts that absorb much of the shock, an impact driver does not work too well.
I had the same problem. After trying the impact driver the phillips slots looked more like o than x.
I took a hammer and a very sharp chisel and angled it so that just the corner of the chisel was touching the edge of the screw head and drove it in a counterclockwise direction. They both came right out.
Replaced them and nearly every other fastener on the bike with stainless socket head screws from Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online

[kopcicle]

Air Capital Rivet Set Kit — 5-Pc., Model# 10018 | Air Punch Rivet Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment
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Find the closest fitting rivet set and either manually or with the air hammer swag the screw slots back into shape . If using the air tool you must use the regulator and check its setting often on a block of wood .If you use anything more than just barely hammering you will destroy the casting under the screw . I can't emphasize this enough . The tool is a great advantage but comes with a significant risk . You have been warned .

3/8 In. Drive Impact Driver - Socket Drivers | MSCDirect.com

You will notice that other than the jis bits above the tools all come from the lowest price search . This one tool (the impact driver) will be in your possession till the day you die . Do not scrimp , save , shave , low ball this tool . Mac , Proto , Snap-On , Matco or a clone of their patterns . Here if it looks like crap, it is . Again , you have been warmed .

Drive the bit into the slots to reform them and then insert the hand impact into the bit/socket . With some small amount of practice you will be able to determine the correct weight and material of hammer . i do not suggest a dead blow or shot filled hammer . The default hammer is brass followed by "mild" untempered steel and then lead . I at this point the screw is still resisting your best efforts to remove it it's time for a beer and serious contemplation before you come back with heat , penetrating oil , and possibly drilling the head off .

Ive only been doing this since last week so I may be in error , YMMV.

~kop

[buck484]

Thanks for the info, I don't know Kop, I usually start with a beer. I had to go about 110 mi. today to buy a new impact driver. You probanly wouldn't believe this but all the parts stores closer to me acted like I was nuts. I had a cheap one I had for years but it just wasn't doing it. I am amazed by the people our parts houses employ, if they don't see it on a computer, it doesn't exist. If anyone knows where to find the 4 pin wire connectors, like the one off of the pulsing coil please let me know. You wouldn't believe the look I got when I asked for one of these. Well I guess I'll either go work on the bike or another beer. Thanks all

[Gary - K7GLD]

You might try Emailing several of the EBay motorcycle salvage yards - could probably get an entire wiring harness pretty cheap - or Email them a pic of the wire and connector needed, and get just that part even cheaper...

[buck484]

Thanks Gary, I thought about a whole harness but I don't know if I'm up to that. I saw your tailpipe video and thought it really turned out nice. Will the harness be bike specific or is there one size fits all? Thanks again

[MFolks]

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Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.


Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

[buck484]

Thanks Mike,I tested the pulsing coils and both were well into the range(435ohms and 460ohms) The problem I am having now is as I tested the pulsing coil the connector fell apart and the wires on one side, the colors don't match,the wires on the other side and I am trying to find out what goes to what. I am learning why every ones bike looks so clean. Because you have to get into every thing to fix it. I bought some DeOxit today and solder so I'm ready to have a go at the wiring. I'm going to try cleaning all connections as you advised and hopefully fix the problems. I have some Dyna DC1-1 coils on the way from KZZONE. Hope I can figure this out. Thanks for your help

[MFolks]

On the ignition coils, a RED wire(or one that's RED with YELLOW stripe) goes to one terminal of each coil, this is the 12 volt supply from the right handlebar run/stop switch. The other terminal on the ignition coil will be either BLACK or GREEN from the IC Igniter.

The LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different). It makes no diffference which sparkplug wire port is used on th ignition coil, just make sure the primary(small wires are connected in the right sequence.


The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs. The RED wire is common to both ignition coils.

[MFolks]

Now the fun begins; make sure the primary wires do not ground against the mounting spacers. More than a few riders who have upgraded their ignition coils have started blowing fuses, so look carefully at the spacers, some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers.


Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1. Copper plug wires with no supression caps(the best choice, will produce greater spark, but will produce audio noise on Radio's & T.V.'s)

2. Copper plug wires with supression caps(a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can some times fail, like what came with the bike).

3. Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the "R" in the plug number, like B8RES).

4. Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs and supression caps or supression plug wires, as now there will be two (2) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar primary(small wire) electrical connection using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers will come really close, possibly causing an electrical short, blowing fuses.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wire fit into a port with a brass “Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(The Brits, Canadians and other countries call the sparkplug wires “High Tension Leads”).

[buck484]

Thanks Mike I ordered the wires with the coils and should be getting them soon. When I tested the pulsing coils the connector was deteriorated badly and when trying to plug back together the connector on the female side just crumbled. Now I am trying to reconnect but find the colors on one side of the connector doesn't match the colors on the other side. Hopefully the wiring diagram will help. Here is a pic of the connector and you can see the difference.

Pictures by buck484 - Photobucket

Any ideas? Thanks for all the help Mike.

[MFolks]

Looking at my bike's diagram(1982 GPZ1100 B2), I see BLACK and BLUE should be for the left pick up, with YELLOW and RED, the right pick up (4 wires) What have you got?

[buck484]

Thanks Mike, I am going to post a pic and see if this what it should be.

http:http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...attach/jpg.gif

Lets see if this works.
Thanks again Mike

[zoro]

Thanks Mike,I tested the pulsing coils and both were well into the range(435ohms and 460ohms) The problem I am having now is as I tested the pulsing coil the connector fell apart and the wires on one side, the colors don't match,the wires on the other side and I am trying to find out what goes to what. I am learning why every ones bike looks so clean. Because you have to get into every thing to fix it. I bought some DeOxit today and solder so I'm ready to have a go at the wiring. I'm going to try cleaning all connections as you advised and hopefully fix the problems. I have some Dyna DC1-1 coils on the way from KZZONE. Hope I can figure this out. Thanks for your help

Heres the 4-pin connector, I always check and/or call Z1-E first, Jeff Saunders is a member here and owns Z1-Enterprises. Terminal Connector Set - T - 4 Pin - Red - Individual - - - - from Z1 Enterprises, Inc.

[buck484]

Thanks Zorro, I ordered them. Thanks again

[Gary - K7GLD]

Thanks Gary, I thought about a whole harness but I don't know if I'm up to that. I saw your tailpipe video and thought it really turned out nice. Will the harness be bike specific or is there one size fits all? Thanks again

I wasn't suggesting swapping out the entire harness, only that you could likely at least get the connector you need that way, and splice it into your own harness - I see complete harnesses going for $25 or so on EBay - might still be a good deal, if no other sources show up. Hard to say how interchangeable specific harnesses might be, but good possibility if you stay in the same family of bikes - 1000, 1100, 750, etc.

BUT, looks like you have it covered - good luck!