Gpz 1100 b2 Stuttering 5000-6000 rpm - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Gpz 1100 b2 Stuttering 5000-6000 rpm

I have run into a little problem with my Kawasaki Gpz 1100 b2 1982.

The problem is occuring at 5000-6000 rpm it starts stuttering. Like hitting rev limiter.
It pulls fine from bottom up to 5-6k in all gears. it runs smoothly in idle and revs fine in idle aswell.
The coils are new and the sparkplugs are new aswell.

Is there a way to test the pickups or what should my fuel pressure be.
Or could it be something else?

thanks in advance for respons
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 04:13 PM
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Even though their new have you tested the coils and the spark plug caps?
I think the fuel pressure for that model is supposed to be Round 15 psi.
You should get a manual like clymer for your model bike. It could be a great deal of help. You can test the pickups with a multimeter but you will have to lookup the specs.

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I really don't see why people ask for advice if their not going to take the advice given.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 04:45 PM
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What's the condition of the battery? I would charge it with a good smart charger and test it with a digital multimeter & do a load test. never assume a battery is good --- test it.

Manual. There is an 81-83 KZ1000/1100 FSM available at KZRider on the home page. I believe you have to register & log-in to download it.

ps: I'm currently running a Scorpion AGM from batterystuff.com and I use a Ctek US 0.8 smart charger & VC97 digital multimeter.

....

1981 KZ650-CSR. Competition, Sports & Road.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 09:11 PM
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According to wikipedia, the FI system was so problematic that many owners removed it and installed carbs.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kawasaki_GPZ1100_B1/B2

1985 Kawasaki ZN700 Shaft, 4cyl
1989 Yamaha Venture Royale
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 04:59 AM
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Keep in mind that wikipedia does NOT write articles nor are the articles necessarily written by subject matter experts; the articles are written by someone with an opinion. Sometimes info is good and sometimes it is, well just someone's opinion. Did the writer of that article have a valid opinion? Maybe; maybe not. Be careful with wikipedia as it isn't confirmed fact; just opinions and you know what they say about opinions.
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wiredgeorge
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Gonna see if i can get that manual

Will have a look at the battery, coils and caps today. See if there is anything fishy about it.

Something i noticed when i refueled and it was warm. It sounded a little weak. not speedy like always.

My respons time in here might be abit off compared to you guys answers as I am from Denmark. Different time zone
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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I tried something as the other things where looking fine spec wise.
I switched out the air temp resistor in the airbox out, with a potentiometer. i just only had an 5k ohm one laying and i might need an 10k ohm. But getting that tomorrow.

5k ohm is lets say 20 celsius, and 10k is 0 celsius. So it gets more fuel, it could rev higher now before it started to stutter. So i might just need a little extra.
So basicly i get some advance carbs with adjustable jets its worth a try. Dont know if i can get a new temp resistor as it might have gone bad. Could be great with a new engine temp and air temp sensor.

So if anyone know where i can get new sensors it could be great.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 12:05 PM
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I am not a fuel injection expert so don't know of any fixes for your problem. If you study the parts diagram in this link, the word OBSOLETE turns up quite a bit. This means you will have to take the part number and watch eBay for this number to pop up and snatch it when it does. This is the reason for the FI to carb switch many early FI owners make; the parts needed to make an older Kaw FI working are just unobtainium.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 10:53 PM
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1. Anytime an FI engine seems to die out at higher speeds, a fuel system pressure check is in order.
2. Pressure should be 33lbs at idle.
3. Fuel filter should be clean, fuel tap not restricted or tank full of rust.

Last edited by sfair; 06-22-2017 at 10:55 PM.
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