KZ-650 B1 Electric start button does not work

[JeffreyD]

The bike sat for several years, and now the starter button/switch does not work, I can turn motor over with screwdriver at the soloinoid, there must be a short or bad connection somewhere, I have tried cleaning connections at the wiring, etc fuses good, took starter button/ swith and on/off swith apart and cleaned, still no action, any help please?

[rstnick]

Some models need to have the clutch pulled in first before you can electric start her (Starter lockout switch on the clutch lever). I have had the Starter lockout switch's wire connections under the tank become disconnected, probably while I was under the tank fiddling with things, and prevent the bike from starting. Check the connections under the tank, both wires are Black.

[tazzmann]

Mine has a lockout switch as well. I would check that as rstnick suggested

[JeffreyD]

Good point, I have not started the bike in some time, I ran out to the garage to try with clutch lever in no action, I will check those wires you mentioned,
Thank you very much.

[wiredgeorge]

Jeffery, when you ask a question or make a statement like, "no action", it is kind of hard to interpret. I am guessing you mean the bike doesn't start when you jump the starter solenoid? Well, if that is the case (I hate making assumptions), first thing you need to do is buy a multimeter... a test light will also work. In order for the bike to start, you have to have power at your coils.

Here is where the power comes from for both the coils and trigger for your solenoid... from fuses to ignition switch through connector in headlamp shell to right hand switch gear. Through kill switch... power to starter button for the trigger for the solenoid goes to the button and out (button pushed allows power through). The power for your coils comes out of the kill switch. Both the coil power and starter button power go to another big connector on the right hand steering neck where power travels back along the wiring harness. In the case or the starter button power, a wire goes to the starter solenoid (a small black one I think). In the case of the coils, a dual connector comes out of the harness above your valve cover and two red wires are connected to the dual connector and then connected to your coils...

OK... enough explanation I think... Since you don't have coil power or starter button power, first thing would be to open up your right hand switch gear and turn key on. First measure power at battery... you should be getting 12VDC? If not, the battery is dead and fix that problem before proceeding. If you get 12VDC, then measure the power at the wires going into the kill switch. Put the POS (red) multimeter lead on the wire going into the kill switch and the black (NEG) lead on a frame ground. With the key on, you should get 12VDC... if you don't, open up the headlight shell and check the connector as either this connector needs cleaned, some dielectic grease dabbed on the terminals and reconnected (they tend to melt) or the ignition switch is bad or the fuses blown. You can also check for power on the pins coming out of the ignition switch...

If you have power up there in the switch gear at the kill switch, Look at the wire colors... the black wire at the horn button and the red wire (I think it is red but not sure) coming out of the kill switch and going to the big connector I spoke of on the steering neck. Open this connector and check power at the pins with the multimeter and clean and reconnect.

I strongly suspect your problem will be:
1 blown fuses
2 bad ignition switch
3 bad kill switch
4 bad connection in headlight shell
5 bad connection on connector for right had switchgear on steering neck

I would guess that if you check these things you have about a 95 percent chance of finding out why your start button doesn't work and you don't have coil power.