1982 Kaw 1100 Problems

[ndoerr]

i have recently aquired a 1982 Kaw 1100, and am have some running issues. first is when you get the bike started it backfires and misses some what with the choke all the way out, but runs worse with the choke closed. i have changed the plugs and changed the oil in the bike, and have put about 2 tanks of 91+ gas in the bike, and cant figure out why it still misses and runs poorly with the chokes closed. i have taken the carbs off and thouroghly cleaned them, and didnt really find anything to lead me to suspect that it has a carb problem. is there someway to time the bike, and if so how would i go about doing that. second my tachometer doent work,but all of the wiring going to the tach is ok, where do the wires run to on the motor, and how do you check to see if it is working properly. third my spedo doent work, but i need to get a cable also, but i was wondering where the spedo screws into, i have looked all over the bike but cant seem to spot it. any help with any of this would be appreciated.

[StarGate]

A, B, or D model?

[SpectreMan1]

backfiring and sputtering could be vacuum lines and caps on the carbs.
1st are all the lines and caps on there and hooked up right and in good shape?
2nd check your air switch valve for proper function, it's under the tank connected to the air box, air suction valves and #2 carb vacuum barb when you check the air switch valve with a vacuum gauge do NOT exceed 40 cmHg!!! (it will ruin the diaphram inside)

The speedo cable attatches at the headlight housing it should be a yellow 6 pin connector you have to remove the headlight to get to it

If you dont have one already I STRONGLY suggest you getting a Kawasaki factory service manual they are worth the money believe me! the part # for one is 99924-1032-03 which you should be able to get from your local Kawi Dealer or even E bay (like I did )

Thats about all I can think of off the top of my head right now unless your idle ports in your carbs are gunked up maybe get some sea foam fuel cleaner and dump the whole can in it run it for 2 mins then shut it off and let it sit for 12 hours then see what it does.

[Kawa 1982]

The get a manual advice is probably the best advice you will ever receive. You do not have a choke. You have a fuel enrichner that adds additional fuel until the engine can run without the additional fuel. If it runs better with the fuel enrichner pulled all the way out and worse when you push the fuel enrichner in. Then it is starving for fuel. The fuel tap is operated by vacuum therefore vacuum hose integrity is critical. Someone else suggested checking the vacuum hose. Keep in mind it does not need to be Kawasaki hose. I bought mine at Pep Boyz. Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and switch the fuel tap to the prime position. Did fuel run out the end of the hose? If “no” the fuel tap may need to be removed and cleaned. If yes, then open each one of the carburetors drains a little to be sure the float bowls are filling with fuel. If fuel does not drain out of one or more carburetors then you may have a needle and seat problem caused by improper float adjustment or possibly trash in the needle seat. You will have to remove the carburetors to properly set the float level. You also need to check the air seal of the rubber boots where the carburetors mate to the head. Spray WD-40 around these boots while the engine is running. If it sounds like the engine is accelerating or it smoothes out then you have an air leak that needs to be fixed. The air leak will cause it to run lean. Are the boots from the air cleaner pliable and tight on the carburetors and into the air box? You can test these with WD-40 also. Have you replaced the air filter?

You asked about timing? My Clymers manual says, “Ignition timing inspection is not required maintenance. Transistorized ignition initial timing is very stable and once set properly it should last the life of the motorcycle without adjustment.” Your speedometer operates by an electrical signal from the Speed Sensor that is located on the left side of the front wheel at the axel bolt. The tachometer operates by an electrical signal from the number 1 and 4 coil through the black 6-pole coupler located in the headlight shell. The testing sequence for both of these items is lengthy. I suggest you wait until you get a manual for these items. There are two schools of thought on manuals. One, the factory manual is written for professional mechanics the authors assume a high level of base knowledge on the part of the user. Second, the authors of manuals like the Clymer are writing their manuals for the weekend do it yourselfer that may not have a high level of basic mechanical skills. Therefore they go into more detail on the disassembly and test procedures.

[ndoerr]

thanks for the helpful info, i will let you know how it all turns out

[SpectreMan1]

There are two schools of thought on manuals. One, the factory manual is written for professional mechanics the authors assume a high level of base knowledge on the part of the user. Second, the authors of manuals like the Clymer are writing their manuals for the weekend do it yourselfer that may not have a high level of basic mechanical skills. Therefore they go into more detail on the disassembly and test procedures.[/quote]

I've actually had the opposite experience with the manuals the Clymers I've gotten often have incorrect wiring diagram color codes and in alot of different areas are missing critical steps, I've found the factory manuals are more thorough and well detailed and even though it may require more reading and maybe even some rereading to get it all down it is well worth it! More info then you may need is always better then not enough! LOL (especially when it comes to something with such small intricate parts like carb rebuilding !)

[SpectreMan1]

Originally Posted by StarGate

A, B, or D model?

How about C all the above?? I know I'm such a dork sometimes lol