...and I'm having problems with my new motorcycle. Can anyone help? I think it's the right color, but beyond that, I'm not sure.
...and I'm having problems with my new motorcycle. Can anyone help? I think it's the right color, but beyond that, I'm not sure.
NCDave
"Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail us now." - Elwood Blues
http://www.bikepics.com/members/ncdave/
well i wanted a white and silver 900 but i got a red and black .. go figur
and one have a 1972 harley chopper
dave ? are u on line
now
Thanks for the info on how to post correct info......
I just recently bought a 1990 Kawasaki 454ltd.
It has been in storage for 5yrs, with the gas tank drained, carbs drained, and covered with a tarp in a storage bldg, up on center stand. The bike is nearly in a like new condition all over, it has only been driven for 5950miles. The original owner developed arthritis in both knees and just parked it in storage.
I bought a manual and went through the step by step process of carefully removing both carbs, and disassimbling them and cleaning them throughly.
both carbs were very clean inside, so I only removed the basic essentials to clean out the ports and where any gum or varnish would hide. I've replaced the battery with a new one, added fresh gas, checked the oil level, closed the bottom drain holes on both carbs, and cranked over a couple times. It will start with the choke full on, but will not stay running; also if I try to give it some throttle, it bogs out or dies, if I ease up on the choke, it might start and run, but run rough, or else die again. I cant tell if I'm getting good enough spark at the plugs, but then, it will start right up so I figure that it must be getting spark at the plugs, I just know know if the ICC unit is allowing enough spark to the plugs, or it's something else. Like vacume. I noticed when the carbs were apart, there was a spring loaded diaphragm inside that seem to act as a "gate" in the opening of the throttle body, to allow for more air flow/vacume; so, my deduction for a bad idle is that there is not enough vacume getting to one of the carbs and pulling that spring loaded diaphram up high enough to allow for more air through the carbs and a better throttle response. does that sound right to you?
what else could do to make this run smooth. I have no reason to think that any settings have been "toyed" with since it was covered with a complete tarp, in a locked bldg, so I have'nt tried to monkey with any of the idle adjustment screws or anything else.
also one last thing, do you know about what goes between the upright bars behind the front seat, just above the tail light? mine is missing.
thank you for any help you can advise.....
mobilemover
Now all you need to do is copy and paste this into a new thread. Not many people are going to look in here unless they are reading the OP like you did.![]()
hey man im a newbie i have a 1982 kawasaki kz 440 ltd belt drive with a little over six thousand miles on it. It is a daily driver and i fix it up a little when i have time i think the carbs need to be rejetted and the rubber housing that connects the carbs to the aircleaner box are cracked (no idea how to replace) but main and first concern is a missing air box that covers the air filter. this thing is discontinued and practically non existant any knowledge on where to find or how to fabricate would be greatly appreciated. Or any sense of direction for that matter thank you.
anyone Needing Parts For A 1982 Kawasaki 440 Kz Should Go To
Motorcycle Superstore [ 1-877_668-6872 [/b]
motorcycle Superstore Phone
1-877-668-6872
Hello,
I went to the Motorcycle Superstore website. However, the list only goes back to 1985. I own a 1981 Kawasaki. Are there any other sites that go farther back?
Thank you
First off, this is my first time on the site since registering a week or so ago. I just bought a 1982 KZ1000 (K2) LTD and forty miles into the trip home it began to lose power (dimming lights etc) and I pulled over. I had the bike towed the rest of the way home and have began to look for replacement parts (stator, rotor and volt. Reg.) At this point my question is if it is normal to have oil on the stator and rotor inside the left side cover that contains them. It has been a few years since I have had a street bike but I have had my mc license since "77" and been on bikes since about 71. I am 50 now. Thanks in advance.
HI STICKY, JUST READ YOUR ADVICE ON NEWBIES(THATS ME!) GIVING AS MUCH INFORMATION AS POSSIBLE WITH REGARDS TO FAULTS, MAKE OF BIKE ETC.. GOOD ADVICE I AGREE, BUT IT WOULD ALSO BE OF HELP IF FORUM MEMBERS ARE CAREFUL TO ONLY GIVE ADVICE IF THEY UNDERSTAND THE PROBLEM/FAULT AND SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE.IF THEY ARE GUESSING,THEY SHOULD SAY SO.I AM NOT SAYING THAT THIS IS BEING DONE BY ANYONE,(AS A NEWBIE I WOULDN'T KNOW).IT'S JUST THAT ANY GUESSWORK COULD BE GIVING THE RECIPIENT A LOT OF UNNECESSARY WORK/MISERY. ENJOYED READING YOUR POSTINGS,KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Sorry to reply instead of using the initial post option but I spent an hour and a half typing my post on my phone (only access to the net) and went to post & the site said. I. couldn't post. so I'm trying this way cuz I'm desperate for help. I'm 50+ yrs. old & my car was stolen so a friend needed his car fixed and paid me with a 1982 kz1000 I'm actually a carpenter by trade but was a mechanic in the marines and side jobs are keeping me alive.but I've never had or worked on a bike before.I'm only 5'5" tall & never ridden a bike in my life but this is my only transportation.problem is hard enough trying to learn to ride on this haus but the mechanical issues are making it challenging to say the least.Now before I type for another hour I'm going to see if I. can post this so please. bear with me thanks.
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