Clutch Handle Won't Disengage (lots of pics here)

[hanilrez]

Bike: 1980 KZ 440 - My first bike.

Problem that occurred: I pulled on the clutch handlebar and heard a snap. The clutch handlebar did not have any tension.


What I did: I bought new clutch cable, new clutch plates, and new clutch springs. I replaced them all to the instruction manual's specifications, but it's the same problem, no friggin' tension in the clutch handle.

Here's the exploded view:



I don't know if this has contributed to the problem, but inside the clutch housing "8", there seems to be a groove:





I've replaced the clutch plates and springs and have tightened them down evenly:



Here's a pic of the clutch pushrod "17". I think it looks fine.



Here's a pic of left side of the bike where the clutch cover goes.



Here's a pic of inside the clutch cover with the cam release "18" tightened into the sloted screw "22". It is tight for now.



I then put on the clutch cover and tightened the cover to the bike. Here's a pic of the slotted screw with the nut. I couldn't turn the screw clockwise, so I turned it counter-clockwise a few times. It was hard to turn. As I was turning the screw, I pressed down on the clutch, but there was NO tension still. I pushed the handle back to the released position, back and forth while turning the screw counter-clockwise.



NOTHING! Here's a pic of the handle first pressed in, then me pushing it back to the released position.





I'm at my wit's end. The web is my last hope. I'm fresh out of ideas on why there's no tension in the clutch. It feels as if the clutch release "15" doesn't push enough into the pushrod for the springs to engage, like the pushrod might not be long enough. The conundrum is that it's the same pushrod.

In addition to, I've tried all different ways of tightening and loosening the clutch cable. No success.

Any ideas?

[ltdrider]

There's a little ball that the clutch rod pushes. It's number 21 on your diagram. I can't remember if it can come out of the left side...
Any chance that the ball may have dropped out and rolled under your tool box?

Also.. the 'snap' you heard may have been your clutch cable breaking at the cluch lever (at your handlebar). You said you replaced the clutch cable... was it parted?

[hanilrez]

Yeah, the clutch cable was the same part number as originally specified for the bike. I just pulled off the new cable and verified it with the old cable. Both are the same length.

As for the ball bearing, I did push it out, examine it, then inserted back in. Could there be a chance that there should be a ball bearing at the other end that the diagram did not show?

[StarGate]

Are you sure the lower cable end didn't come loose (cotter pin installed) while installing the side cover?. Did the adjusting screw ever get hard to turn and stop? Did you operate the lever while the side cover was off to verify it is working in that position? Same # of disc went in as came out?

[transam32]

Just a thought but can you manually disengage the clutch by pushing the rod in with a prybar ? That would at least isolate the problem to the clutch install itself , or ,if you can't ,the cable and/or actuator in the cover if you can disengage it manually. Is the little top hat looking peice under the outer clutch plate? ( # 16 in your exploded view )

[hanilrez]

Stargate:

The lower end of the clutch wire did not come apart from the clutch release swingarm. I put in a cotter pin to prevent this. Also I verified that the mechanism worked as I pulled on the clutch before I put the cover on.

Am I correct to think that the mechanism will not spring the clutch handle back without the use of the pushrod? The swingarm only moves out no more than 3-4 mm if I press down on it with my hand as I pull on the clutch with my other hand.

I do have the same number of plates off as I put new ones on. And I did let the new plates soak for a few minutes in oil.

As for the slotted screw, if I keep turning it out, the release disk "18" moves out, then it falls off the screw. As for the clutch handle, still no tension.

Transam32:

As for the prybar idea, tried it. Actually I hit it with a hammer just to make sure. I pressed the pushrod toward the plates, then removed the clutch plate cover "5". I made sure that the top hat plunder did not move as I removed the clutch plate cover. Here's pics of the work:





As you can see, the top hat plunger "16" lines up with the case. The first clutch plate is approx. 5 mm from the edge. Not sure what to do but wait for your replies.

[transam32]

Yeah that seems kinda strange to me too. Should work!. If I recall, and don't quote me, but is'nt there a spring coiled around the actuator lever in the cover? I think the actuator operates on a helix if my memory is serving me correctly. Maybe that spring broke and you may have missed it? If you tighten the center screw in the cover can you get the clutch to disengage at all, or even take up the slack in the cable? I( know I'm new to this forum, but I've done all the things you have pictured to my bike and it all looks correct to me. The cover and actuator seem to jump into my mind. I remember the clutch handle still having tension on it while I had the clutch apart. Do you have a blowup available for the cover assembly? I did'nt have to mess with the cable/ cover assembly at all other than re-adjusting the freeplay. ( again, don't quote me on it...I refreshed my clutch about 8 years ago....so I could be thinking of another bike design. )

[hanilrez]

Here's the exploded view of the cover:



After Item Numbers 6 and 9, item 19 of the 1st diagram goes in. After the case, item 22 gets slotted through followed by the other items.



Here's the pic of the swingarm/release assembly on the cover with the wire attached:



When I do it by hand, the swingarm and wire work perfectly. But when I attach the front end of the clutch wire to the handle and mount the cover, the swingarm fails to contract back to the original position unless pushed.

[StarGate]

Have you assembled the left side and watched for pressure plate movement with the cover off the right side? It seems to me you've checked everything so the things I'm mentioning are just things that come to mind to check. It's tough not being there to look at it and trying to think of things from pics and memory. Also did you take out cable slack with the mid cable adjustment if you have one?

[transam32]

If you assemble the cover and lever but don't put the cover on the motor, does the control arm actuate properly and return properly? If the cover is assembled I don't think the pressure plate can push the swing arm back to it's home position. How much compression does that spring have on it when you have the cable intalled on the swing arm and hand lever? Also, I would try to manually operate the clutch , like using the prybar idea, to be SURE it can travel the full distance required and returns to fully engaged again without any type of binding. That will ensure you that the problem is indeed somewhere in the side cover/swing arm/cable area.

[LoudFastUgly]

I'd be having a look at part #16, then part 7 if I were you...

[transam32]

^----He still needs to confirm that the clutch itself is functioning properly.......that would kill , or justify the last post.

[toolmaker]

First thing you need to do is loosen the mid cable tensioner and the lever tensioner which you probably did at assembly as per your manual. Next adjust the clutch as per your manual, (my manual was wrong, had to turn adjuster(22) CCW to just touch push rod (17) then back off a 1/4 turn.) Mine had left hand threads.

The next step is to adjust both cable tensioners, I know you probably have already done this, But bare with me same thing happened to me.

Now, when you here that pop! Relax , you didn't break anything yet.
The control arm actuated to far and popped into the next set of holes (parts 23 and #18 Probably because your not even close to pushing on the push rod yet with adjuster #22.

After trying all of this and it still isn't right, Been there. Hang in there!

You can flip #18 or #23 upside down to obtain a slightly different position of the control arm actuator. the manual fails to mention this. But you must start at the top again and loosen both cable tensioners then adjust clutch with adjuster #22.

To help you understand the operation of your clutch assembly, the first thing you know is this. When you pull the clutch lever you are disengaging your clutch. Next, when you release the clutch lever, the clutch engages fully.

The heavy clutch springs return the entire assembly (lever arm and cable included) Back to it's original position.

As your clutch plates wear, #22 adjuster and #17 push rod move closer to each other, you must readjust clutch to maintain a slight gap(1/4 turn on adjuster) If you don't maintain the gap, your clutch remains slightly disengaged and clutch plates slip and wear prematurely.

Just take it one step at a time. Let me know how you make out, I know we can get this!

Doug.

[HoboJobo]

Slightly off topic, but somewhat related.

What are parts 18, 19, and 22 called?

I have a similar problem after having overtightened the adjuster screw and hearing a pop. After doing this, it caused the the clutch to always be disengaged. Now the locknut won't come off and I can't lengthen or loosen the screw (probably warped threads) and didn't know the proper name/kit to get those parts.