1981 GPZ 1100 fuel injected

[JG6_oddball]

Originally Posted by StarGate

Welcome to the nut house.

and bolt

S!

[horwood.james1@]

beware using injector cleaner in old bikes.when i did this all the surface rust inside the tank loosened.blocked f filter and carbs again and again.drove me nuts.only total fuel system cleanout[including jets]and lining tank with that por 1 stuff fixed it.don't block injector holes just fit new carb rubbers off z 1000 j.dunno what that model was called in usa but was similar looking bike released in 1980[I am in australia].if fitting carbs the original fuel tap will be in the way.only fix is to replace tank with that off above model.it is same in every other respect.swap tank cap too[key].the other guy is right about ignition,works fine without efi.when i converted my b1 I got really messed around trying to sort wiring.eventually just got it rewired by a pro.cost a grand [1200 us]but should be good for another 25 years.bonus is loom is about a quarter the size.I also fitted dyna 2000 ign and it works great.when dyna is installed it replaces volt reg and ic igniter so these are removed from bike.chuck fuse box and fit push reset circuit breakers[anti vibe bracket].with these mods loom is almost invisible,much neater.oh yeah, ic ignitor and volt reg cost about 800 bucks[new, here].after rewiring i sold mine for 300.took the sting out a little.will upload pics of my b1 as soon as i work out how the hell to do it!

[redbarn401]

I purchased a 1981 GPz 1100 two weeks ago. It has fuel injection problems. It will start up and run but only idle when the fast idle lever is on. It surges badly below 4000 rpm but above that it runs a little better. I have gone on a 30 minute and a 60 minute ride with several wide open bursts out to 6000-7000 RPM's. It doesn't seem to be making full power during full throttle. I would not describe the acceleration as explosive but that would be an unfair comparison to anything modern. I pulled the fuel injection off yesterday and found that the #2 injector was missing the insulator that goes over the tip. Part #92055 in this photo (click on Fuel & Air) 1981 Kawasaki 1000 GP(KZ1100B1)US OEM Parts, 1981 Kawasaki 1000 GP(KZ1100B1)US OEM Replacement Parts - BikeBandit.com

Would this cause the problem or is it more involved? I did a compression check and the numbers were good on all four. The gas tank has been creamed. The fuel filter is new. It has fresh gas in it. The plugs are new. The bike is stock. I ordered a Clymer manual for troubleshooting from ebay that is on the way. Any ideas? I love the bike and it is everything I was looking for in an old school superbike. My first choice would have been an Eddie Lawson Replica but that is more than I wanted to spend for a weekend toy.

Mark

[MFolks]

Try spraying some good electronic contact cleaner up inside the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) after the electrical connector is removed(Try not to loose the small locking clip). Spray and open and close the throttle(with the engine off) and reconnect the cable and try it again.

The TPS is a carbon variable resistor than can get dirty from use. I'd recommend using De-oxit D5 ( caig.com - Home of DeoxIT - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. ) or any other good contact cleaner(STAY AWAY FROM WD-40 as it will later turn into a non-conductor!!).

Check the engine temp sensor, and the air intake sensor.
The injectors fire at 3 volts, so if you decide to pull them for electrical checkout DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 3 VOLTS and then use a 3 volt light bulb as a current limiter, otherwise the injector coil will burn out. I use a 3 volt self powered test light for electrical checks on my injectors.

The fuel pump pressure on my 82 GPz 1100 B2 is 33 PSI at idle and 35 PSI when the throttle is moved.

Some websites for fuel pumps:
1.GSL393 In-Line Pump
2.Fuel Pumps and Regulators

A website for injector service:
WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

[wdhewson]

Gents: I have great regrets about passing up a pristine GPZ FI 1981. It was a great looking bike but wouldn't run well. I'm glad I passed on it, but maye the carb conversion would have made it all right.

[Polar_Bus]

Originally Posted by RickB

OK, I am ready to ask for some help getting this thing running. 1981 GPZ 1100 with fuel injection. I have tested every electronic part on it and they all check out, battery voltage is good, and good spark at the plug. Plugs keep fouling with carbon/soot I know that means to rich but that is probably from me trying to get it running by opening the air flow valve and feeding it a lot of throttle. It wont start easily at all and will not idle at all, can keep it running if I run the RPM up to about 4500 but it is stumbling and popping out the air flow valve a little. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should try next? It is getting frustrating as I havent really found anything I can put my finger on that is wrong yet!?!?!

One other issue that I know was problematic with all the GPZ DFI's was a debris clogged fuel return pressure valve. It's located under the tank. If this valve gets clogged it ads unnecessary pressure to the fuel injectors casuing the bike to runn extremly rich, and hesitate on acceleration. Those pressure check valves are still availabe from Kawasaki. (I have a spare myself just in case !)

Rich

[wdhewson]

Rich: The photo shows the old girl to be a beauty. Don't give up on it. Just work your way through all the systems. Patience has its rewards. Hard work too.

[sidy]

Originally Posted by redbarn401

I purchased a 1981 GPz 1100 two weeks ago. It has fuel injection problems. It will start up and run but only idle when the fast idle lever is on. It surges badly below 4000 rpm but above that it runs a little better. I have gone on a 30 minute and a 60 minute ride with several wide open bursts out to 6000-7000 RPM's. It doesn't seem to be making full power during full throttle. I would not describe the acceleration as explosive but that would be an unfair comparison to anything modern. I pulled the fuel injection off yesterday and found that the #2 injector was missing the insulator that goes over the tip. Part #92055 in this photo (click on Fuel & Air) 1981 Kawasaki 1000 GP(KZ1100B1)US OEM Parts, 1981 Kawasaki 1000 GP(KZ1100B1)US OEM Replacement Parts - BikeBandit.com

Would this cause the problem or is it more involved? I did a compression check and the numbers were good on all four. The gas tank has been creamed. The fuel filter is new. It has fresh gas in it. The plugs are new. The bike is stock. I ordered a Clymer manual for troubleshooting from ebay that is on the way. Any ideas? I love the bike and it is everything I was looking for in an old school superbike. My first choice would have been an Eddie Lawson Replica but that is more than I wanted to spend for a weekend toy.

Mark

G'Day - "surging" is usually caused by the engine temp being detected as either at one end of the sensor reading or the other...so the EFI is turning on enrichment and turning it off on the next reading... if the sensor measures OK (and I bet it does) and the wiring harness from the sensor to the EFI connector is OK (bet it is also) then it is most likely a crack on the EFI connector on the circuit board. I have an 83 model GPz1100 that is doing this right now so I'm about to pull it open and re-solder all the terminals.

I checked with a friend of mine who services these and he says he does this often, the connector solder joints are the only major failing on the PCB.

Good luck and take your time... I bet if you diconnect the engine temp sensor the surging stops... (Sensor error will put it in safe mode).

The performance with the EFI (82 models onwards) is fantastic compared to carbs, the EFI on the 81 model is rat**** so try and replace it.

[redbarn401]

Thanks to everyone for getting back to me with possible solutions.Since the last post I found the injector insulator inside the port. It remained in place when I pulled the injectors out. I have tested the idle switch, the engine temperature sensor, and all four injectors. All of them have tested OK. Is the air temperature sensor the small nylon piece peeking out 5/16 " at the rear of the air flow meter? I have seven pins labelled 39 36 34 35 33 32 25. Which pins would I use to test it? How do I test the throttle switch?

I also noticed that there appears to be some missing vacuum hoses.
From the air switch under the gas tank there is a hose that goes to a T fitting which feeds the #1 and #4 throttle assemblies. The hose from the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the #3 throttle assembly. There is no vacuum hose going to #2. What is the correct set up?

I will try disconnecting the engine temperature sensor when I get it back together and running. I also bought some Chevron/Techron fuel injector cleaner to add to the gas to clean out the injectors.

Mark

[MFolks]

The air switch under the tank and related hoses are usually removed and capped or plugged. Run a hose from one of the covers to the other where the reed valves are on the exhaust covers. Windshield hose makes for a good vacuum line source.

This is Kawasaki's solution to a clean burning system, it injected fresh air to the exhaust valves to re-combust any unburned fuel.

It was called the "Clean Air Suction system" As I stated earlier, for the most part,bike owners who had this disabled it as it tended to burn exhaust valves.

If the FI system still works, you'll need a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

I believe your bike shares some simularities with mine, My fuel pump pressure is 33 PSI at idle and goes to 35 PSI when the throttle is moved.

I do not have a MAF (mass air flow sensor) but have a throttle position sensor(TPS) that's a variable resistor linked to the throttle shaft.

Here's some information on the ECU (Electronic Control Unit):

1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pinout


I have a 82 GPZ1100 B2 also . I got out my well used service manual and copied the wire pin-out if you are going to use the EFI system.


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal

[sidy]

I checked the parts manual... 1 & 4 go to the fuel pressure regulator, the other one goes to the fuel tank tap, the 4th is not used.

I have the dealer service manual for the B1 EFI at home, I will have to chase around for it.. but I saw it recently so its present. It has the step by step process to test the EFI out, its pretty simple. Don't get confused by the B2 model, its very different.

Sid

Originally Posted by MFolks

The air switch under the tank and related hoses are usually removed and capped or plugged. Run a hose from one of the covers to the other where the reed valves are on the exhaust covers. Windshield hose makes for a good vacuum line source.

This is Kawasaki's solution to a clean burning system, it injected fresh air to the exhaust valves to re-combust any unburned fuel.

It was called the "Clean Air Suction system" As I stated earlier, for the most part,bike owners who had this disabled it as it tended to burn exhaust valves.

If the FI system still works, you'll need a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

I believe your bike shares some simularities with mine, My fuel pump pressure is 33 PSI at idle and goes to 35 PSI when the throttle is moved.

I do not have a MAF (mass air flow sensor) but have a throttle position sensor(TPS) that's a variable resistor linked to the throttle shaft.