KZ 1100 Hard to Start

[Killbert]

Hello,

I have been searching around for a bit and I'm starting to realize that I'm not the only one with this problem.

I have an 82' KZ1100 Shaft/Carb that is getting my goat. I was having problems with it turning over. I bought an Ebay reman starter and a new battery but have been experiencing the same slow crank condition. I was beginning to worry about the bike being out of time. A bike mechanic I know told me that there is no way that little starter is powerful enough to bend valves if in fact the timing was out. I decided to search the forums for advice and I found that this problem seems fairly common with these starters. I suppose the "new" one I purchased is in no better shape than my last one. I fabricated my own positive cable to the starter, and grounded the body of the starter with a cable directly to the negative post on the battery, and I managed to get the bike to turn over at a reasonable RPM. I tried again a few minutes later and it was back to the extremely slow crank.

I am going to bring my starter to a shop to have it inspected and rebuilt if possible, and I'm going to keep my cable routing as is. Has anyone dealt with this problem in a similar manner? Any other ideas?

I will let you know if I get her working. I'm beside myself with excitement to ride this bike. I love it so much.

Kellyn

[MFolks]

Is the negative cable to the engine/chassis in good shape? It needs to be clean and tight with no corrosion on either positive or negative battery terminals. Also the starter solenoid needs to be clean and tight.

[Killbert]

Both are in good shape but I am bypassing both the solenoid and chassis ground trying to diagnose the problem. Even connected directly to the starter I am experiencing this slow crank. I had the starter checked and tested 20 minutes ago and he said it's perfect. I think I need to pull the engine cover and see if I have a problem there.

[MFolks]

Check oil levels as this sounds like lack of librication. Can you remove the small cover on the right side(about the size of a CD) and rotate the engine with the sparkplugs removed? This will tell you if something is dragging in the engine.

[Killbert]

Checked oil,fluids, and rotated engine without plugs. Turns great. I got the bike to turn over wonderfully with the help of a bigger battery and a charger at 50 amps. I have spark but I have very little if any fuel on the tips of the plugs. I pulled the carbs and all the bowls, and cleaned the float valves. I think I may have a problem in the main jet region. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

Kellyn

[Killbert]

I got the bike to start with my hands over the carbs. It wasn't running on all 4 cylinders, but I know the problem. I took apart the carbs again and removed the 4 plugs that cover the metering jets. All 4 jets were full of crud. Unfortunately, I had to drill out one of the plugs and one jet was damaged. Junkyard carb time?

[Killbert]

I got the bike running almost perfectly. I just need to work out the hard to start problem in the mornings. Almost like the choke doesn't work at all. Also have one frozen caliper in the front that I need to fix. Other than that, she's puuurfect.

[Killbert]

I've had the motorcycle running for two weeks now. The valve stem seals began to leak last week, causing cyclinder #2 to go out under deacceleration. I decided to replace all of the valve stem seals. Most if not all motorcycle mechanics will tell you to remove the cylinder head in order to do this, as it is MUCH easier to do with the head off. Because I'm a little low on money right now, I decided against pulling the head and dropping 80 bucks on headgaskets. I scoured the internet for a valve spring compressor that would suit my needs, but couldn't locate one. I ended up making one.

You will need to modify a 22MM or equivalent socket with a reciprocating saw to add windows into the side of the socket so you can remove/install the valve keepers. A deep socket oxygen sensor socket will work also, because it has a HUGE slit in the side which is big enough for your fingers. Put this socket on the end of a breaker bar and zip tie the breaker bar to a 24" 1/2 or 3/8 extension. This will give you a fulcrum-type action so you can apply even and effective pressure onto the valve spring. I had to cut a 12" 2x4 to stuff under the wiring harness to close the gap between the tool and the frame.

Note: This is a two-person operation. One person will actuate the spring compressor, and the other person will use a magnet to remove the keepers.

I'll take pictures tomorrow of my tool.

[Kawa 1982]

The KZ1100 starter has two sets of brushes. It is possible for one set to fail while the other set works properly but it lacks sufficient power to start the bike. I had the very same problem that you are having. A starter / alternator repair shop should be able to repair your starter. I paid $100.00 to have mine repaired. It worked flawlessly thereafter