plug in carb for rack?

[PJGACO]

Hi everyone.... I have been running my 78 KZ 650 (with 77 engine?) for a few weeks now and have had no issues with my battery...Thanks again for all of the help!!!
Now on to new problems though
The other day the bike started running pretty bad, carbs popping, backfiring out of the kerker.....I happened to notice that the small rubber plug on the #1 carb, (on the top, only on the left side of #1 and right side of #2 where they are all connected) is missing... would this cause a problem with the carb or is it only to keep dirt out of the rack assembly?
Also:
I have been getting fouled plugs since I started riding the bike.... like it is too rich....I have cleaned the carbs and even messed with the screws to get a more lean mixture but it only makes the bike run worse....I saw on a previous thread that it could be a coil problem, a link on the thread explained how test the coils, i am getting a reading of 8v (pos on the coil lead and the neg on the frame w/ignition on )... I read that it should be at least 12....I also read how to bypass the original coil wiring with a relay...I plan to do this in hopes that it is why I keep fouling plugs, or at least one of the reasons.....
Does anyone know if this works or if I would be better off doing something else????

[MFolks]

All the vacuum ports and lines need to be connected as a leak will cause it to act like you described. The engine was running lean and could do damage like seizing,melting pistons, and overheating.

8 volts at the coil(s) is barely able to fire the sparkplugs! I'll bet the turn signals barely worked and the headlight and brake lights were dim.

Go to wiredgeorge motorcycle carburetors - Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Carburetor Sales, Rebuilding and Restoration - Home for detailed instructions and parts list for the relay mod. The website KZrider.com - Home has many guys that have done this modification and made their bikes come alive!

[antiq]

The coil mod is the best $10 you'll ever spend! Yes low voltage will cause fouled plugs. Open vacuum ports will cause a lean condition and back firing. Do the coil mod. Fix all the air leaks. Install new plugs and you'll be amazed how well it runs. Wouldn't hurt to be sure the battery get's a full charge while you are doing the work.

[PJGACO]

Thaks for the advice.... I will be taking the carbs off and cleaning them out, just to be sure.... I am glad to hear that this mod. is worth it...
Does anyone know what that side plug is called or where I can find one?
Thanks again for the advice.........

[antiq]

Any auto parts store should have an assortment of vacuum port covers.

[PJGACO]

Thanks... never had to get one before...I'll pick one up along with a relay for the coils...
I really appreciate the help!

[PJGACO]

This might be a stupid question but.... When looking at my coils I do not see any small lugs to attach connection #87 as discribed in the Wired George instructions.... Am I missing something? Should this connection (#87 ) be connected to the other side of the the connection that is cut and attached to #86? (the wire going into the coil)

[antiq]

Let's see if I can clarify. You are disconnecting the power wire to your coil at the wiring harness. Run a wire from the harness to the coil in the relay. Other side of the relay coil goes to ground. Power is brought from the battery or the battery connection on the starter solenoid to the relay. Out from the relay back to the coil.

[PJGACO]

Originally Posted by antiq

Let's see if I can clarify. You are disconnecting the power wire to your coil at the wiring harness. Run a wire from the harness to the coil in the relay. Other side of the relay coil goes to ground. Power is brought from the battery or the battery connection on the starter solenoid to the relay. Out from the relay back to the coil.

I just sent you a private message before I saw this post because I saw you were online.... sorry to bug you....
The last part of you answer is my grey area, I think ...
This is how I understand it, hopefully I am saying the same thing that you are
#85 goes to the ground point on the frame
# 30 gets a 10 amp fuse and goes to the power from the starter
# 86 goes to the female side of the red/yellow wire in the harness
#87 goes to the male sides of the wires previously in the harness, going into the coils
#87a gets nothing (I get a 5 pint relay)
I hope that is what you are saying....
i am sorry for so many questions... just want to get it right....
Thanks for your help and patience.....

[antiq]

Originally Posted by PJGACO

I just sent you a private message before I saw this post because I saw you were online.... sorry to bug you....
The last part of you answer is my grey area, I think ...
This is how I understand it, hopefully I am saying the same thing that you are
#85 goes to the ground point on the frameto the relay coil
# 30 gets a 10 amp fuse and goes to the power from the starter solenoid, battery side.
# 86 goes to the female side of the red/yellow wire in the harnessto the other connection of the coil in the relay.
#87 goes to the male sides of the wires previously in the harness, going into the coilsYep that completes the circuit to the coils.
#87a gets nothing (I get a 5 pint relay)
I hope that is what you are saying....
i am sorry for so many questions... just want to get it right....
Thanks for your help and patience.....

[PJGACO]

OK... I think I understand now.... I am going to give it a shot tonight.... I should be able to see if there are instant results by performing the same test as before.... I previously got 9 v (mistakenly listed 8v on my original thread, but still low) hopefully I get at least 12..... (I have verified that the battery is fully charged)
Thanks again for the help!!!!!!

[antiq]

You're welcome. Going from 9 volts to twelve on the coil will make a noticeable difference.

[PJGACO]

well.... I cleaned out the carbs and fabricated a cap for the carb linkage since I can not find one, I will need to order one soon.I think part 37 or 39 on the carb parts diagrams I have seen.. (I changed the actual cap from the right side to the left and put the fabricated on the right carb #4...just to see if there is a backfiring problem and if it follows the fabricated cap),
I then fired it up....
It ran like crap.... I could see the backfire (stayed on the left #1 carb) fire out of the carb since it is dark.... I know this is not correct.... Not sure what to do now....
More details.... I did not have the pod filters on the bike, I changed back to the #8 plugs instead of the hotter #7 plugs I got to help with the deposits....
I am going to search the forum to see if anyone has had similar experiences or to see what can cause flames to shoot out of a carb....
Any advice is greatly appreciated

[PJGACO]

I guess I either need the carbs re-jetted because of the pods and kerker or I am dealing with vacume leaks ...(like antiq, stargate, and probably a few other have alreay said) I thought the linkage cap was the vacume issue but I guess I need to look again...
I need to take the carbs off the rack....Is doing a bench synch good enough or should they be synched with guages by a pro?

[antiq]

You shouldn't need to seperate the carbs. If you do a proffesional resynch would be best. Backfire through the carbs is most likely a timing issue.

[PJGACO]

I need to take the carbs off the rack because I do not have the correct lines between the 2 sets of carbs.... I think it is a vac line, kind of a short fitting between the carbs, it is not on the same level as where the fuel line goes into the carbs, it is above and there are only 2. When i got the bike it would not run, after a few weeks of trying to get the bike started I noticed the lines were not there so I took 2 small sections of fuel line, cut them and wrapped them around each opening and sealed each one with a clamp... the bike fired right up after that... I am guessing that these are not air tight. The only way to get a proper line over the opening is to take the outside carbs off the rack, the opening is too small to squeaze a line in.....
Sorry for the long explanation.....
Could my timing be that far off in such a short period? the bike actually ran pretty good a week ago aside from the plugs getting deposits.... then it began to backfire badly and I noticed the cap was gone... I ran it for about 30 miles like this though because it would eventually get better but not great... I don't know if the cap was gone before it started to backfire or not, I am assuming the cap being gone was causing the backfire..????
I have limited tools and ability to check timing, so I would rather stick with the vac issue for now...unless I am completely wrong on this, which is very possible. i just know that the timing seamed to be good 1 week ago....
When i took the hotter plugs out I noticed they were white on the center and black around the sides, up until then they would always be black, except #4 would look better than the others... I assumed they were white this time because of the increased air with the cap being gone..is it possible that the lack of power at the coils before the coil mod offsett a lean mixture causing the bike to run OK or am I way off???
Would a jet adjustment at the clip or going to 110 help?
Maybe I should throw in the towel and take it to a shop

[antiq]

I suppose a low voltage condition could balance out a lean condition. How about posting some pictures of the carbs and the areas in question.

[PJGACO]

I am not home.... working hard
i will see if I have any pics on my computer.... if not I will take some and post....
Thanks for your patience.....
Here is one that shows the cap that has been replaced, right above the choke....
I don't see a pic with the lines I am referring to, I'll see if i can get a part # from a carb diagram or get a pic tonight....

[antiq]

Those carbs are not much like mine as I first thought. I'm not sure what the cap above the choke is for. The one below in the carb mount is a vacuum port for synching the carbs. I'm sure someone will be along shortly with a lot more input on these carbs.

[PJGACO]

I am pretty sure it just seals off the upper portion of the carb where the linkage rod goes through each carb, since they can be put in any position, 1-4, they each have wholes on the left & right for the rod, the outside carbs have the outside holes capped..... The bike started running bad, popping & backfiring... then i noticed it was gone, not sure if it was gone before it ran bad or not....Still looking for a pic of the other fitting between carbs...
Thanks for the advice.....