New Battery dying 80kz750

[iceshark]

Newest issue. I redid wires that I found fried (3 ground wires) One to Regulator, one to solinoid and one to ground. Now Regulator gets warm when driving bike. I need to take volt meter to battery, I do suspect its charging.

Anyway, I fully charged my 2 week old battery on Sunday. Turned off bike and took out key.

Today I pulled bike out and battery has enough juice to turn on lights. However I get very slow turnover and could not start. Battery tests very low.

Could a new battery lose charge that fast ?

Also, bike always turns over very very slow. Are the starters that weak on this model?
thanks.

[StarGate]

What type battery charger do you use? Did you commission the new battery properly? Are you sure it's a battery issue and not a starter or wiring problem? Are you sure you have the right size battery in it?

[antiq]

The starter should turn it over briskly with a fully charged battery and the timing right. The starter clutch is a known problem on the twins but is pretty easy to get to. Yours may be slipping. Any chance you forgot and left something turned on?

[iceshark]

Originally Posted by antiq

The starter should turn it over briskly with a fully charged battery and the timing right. The starter clutch is a known problem on the twins but is pretty easy to get to. Yours may be slipping. Any chance you forgot and left something turned on?

I commisioned it with a 2 amp charger with auto shut off. Then have charged it again at 10 amps for a couple hours a few times in 2 weeks.

No I did not leave anything on.

Its a 12 a a

Dont feel a slip. Its just turning over very slow.

[antiq]

10 amps may have warped the plates. I recharged my old battery at 2amps at 1hr three times a day. for a few days and it's been working fine. Try removing the pos. terminal wires with everything turned off. Measure voltage between the terminal and the wire. Ground lead to the wire. If you get a read for voltage you have a drain somewhere.

[gpzrocker]

First Antiq's voltage measurement is the way to go.

Yeah 10 amps is pretty hot. I used to go through batteries like wildfire until I started using a correct motorcycle battery trickle charger. They like initial charge to be at 10% of amperage, so 1.2 amps for yours -- mine is 1.4 amps.

2 amps I thought, big deal: it'll shut off automatically, right? I tried it and am a believer now. 2 amps can burn a battery up quick. My 1 AMP battery tender has kept my battery going twice as long so far and helped with maintenance. And with the pigtail I don't even have to remove the seat to charge.

I wonder: Did the wires fry from trying to jump off of a running car? Any history?

[Nate]

Use the ammeter function of a VOM to read the current being drawn from the battery. Put the ammeter between the negative battery terminal and the negative lead. Any reading at all indicates a problem. It's quite likely that a damaged regulator/rectifier could be allowing current to be drawn from the battery. Everything else should not have power to it until the switch is turned on.

[MFolks]

Sounds like a slow drain dropping the battery voltage. The battery may have been damaged by the excess current during charge and as mentioned warped/cracked the plates. The drain could be the rectifier/regulator failing internally or trying to back feed the stator and frying the windings.

Motorcycle batteries should be charged at no more than 2 amps(1.25 is best) as they cannot take the amps a car battery can.

[iceshark]

Originally Posted by gpzrocker

First Antiq's voltage measurement is the way to go.

Yeah 10 amps is pretty hot. I used to go through batteries like wildfire until I started using a correct motorcycle battery trickle charger. They like initial charge to be at 10% of amperage, so 1.2 amps for yours -- mine is 1.4 amps.

2 amps I thought, big deal: it'll shut off automatically, right? I tried it and am a believer now. 2 amps can burn a battery up quick. My 1 AMP battery tender has kept my battery going twice as long so far and helped with maintenance. And with the pigtail I don't even have to remove the seat to charge.

I wonder: Did the wires fry from trying to jump off of a running car? Any history?

When I picked up bike a few weeks ago, it was in great shape except for some carb problems. I have that about under control

I did not jump it, however I bet the last owner may have. I thought it wierd that the Ground or black wire was on Positive side of battery to solinoid. Red wire was on battery to engine block as ground. Somewhere someone reversed wires. I bet the old man that owened it second for 18 years and sold to me did not know that. When I fixed main wires I noticed the wire that pigtails to battery and back to solinoid (a ground) was fried. 2 other ground wires to Regulator were fried as well.

I replaced fried wires as I thought this the cause of battery not charging. I have not taken volt meter to it but Regulator now gets warm when running bike. THought I had fixed it. Maybe regulator is shot.

I will check voltage.
Thanks!

[MFolks]

Normal regulator operation will generate heat as the excess current is wasted.
Just do not block the flow of air as this will overheat the regulator. You might consider re-locating it for better air flow.