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Old 10-03-2008   #1 (permalink)
rrich49132
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Default Help me get my 1982 kz440 running

Hi all I have posted a few times here as I bought a 1982 kz 440 about a month ago. Here are the details of the bike. It has 5500 miles in very good shape overall. The owner had it sitting for about a year and tried to get it started to sell it but it would not.

Here is what has been done. New plugs, oil change, new battery. I also pulled the carbs off and cleaned them out although they where very clean. I even pulled the jets out soaked in carb cleaner and they are back on the bike. I have confirmed that the plugs are getting spark.

Today I got the carbs back on and the bike did start after lots of tries and the choke pulled all the way out. The bike went up to about 6000 rpm's and stayed for a moment or two then died. I could do this a few times and any attempt to turn the choke back to normal would kill the bike.

Any clue what I should do next? I cant get the bike to even stay running with full choke as like I said it will run for about 10 seconds or so then shut off.

-ray
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Old 10-03-2008   #2 (permalink)
StarGate
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Try spraying a little WD40 or starter fluid in the carbs and see if it starts. If it does then fuel isn't getting through the carbs to the engine.
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Old 10-03-2008   #3 (permalink)
rrich49132
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I did get it to start and run for a few minutes but the idle was all over the place. I can confirm that it is getting gas. Do you think that carbs could be that out of sync that it wont stay? I am close to just sending the carbs off somewhere and getting a core deposit on rebuilt ones.
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Old 10-03-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Do you have the carbs connected to the airbox and a good filter in it?
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Old 10-03-2008   #5 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem with my 305 I resurrected recently. My problem was the Pilot jets, which I had to have a local vintage motorcycle mechanic help me with. I knew the probelm was in my carbs and paying someone who knew what they were doing, better than me (I have to use a manual and go step by step) was worth every penny when I can ride it every day now.
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Old 10-03-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Carb jet need a very good cleaning as the passages are small and can plug with the varnish from old gasoline. Some shops use ultrasonic machine others might soak in carb cleaner.
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Old 10-03-2008   #7 (permalink)
rrich49132
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I think I am going to send them off to get totally rebuilt as I already have about 5 hours into working on the carbs.
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Old 10-05-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Old 10-05-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Does anyone know where I can get new jets? I have looked online and cant find a place that sells them for my bike.
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Old 10-05-2008   #10 (permalink)
Bob Myers1
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buy a $12.00 dollar can of seafoam, take half of it and put it in a coffee can, pull the fuel bowl off the carbs and sit them in there overnight, take the rest and dump it in tank at about 3 times recommended mixture. Retry your starting. Sounds simply like the pilot jets are plugged with varnish. The seafoam will dissolve most of it, the rest will dissolve over a couple of mixed tanks of gas.
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Old 10-06-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Will give that a shot this week. I did notice something else in that once it starts I do see smoke as oil is leaking somewhere behind the cover to the front sproket and the bolts are stripped so I am having a tough time getting to it to see exactly what is going on. i assume it is some sort of gasket where I may have to pull the motor and replace. Lots of work not sure if it is worth fixing may get rid of the bike not sure? Could be a winter project as it would not cost much does lots of time to fix. Anyways I need to figure out the carb situation first so I can get this think running smooth to see what this oil leak is like.

I wonder if it is worth looking for a used or rebuilt motor and simply swap out? I was looking over the bike and the motor looks easy to pull.
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Old 10-06-2008   #12 (permalink)
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It's easy to swap a motor on that bike, but you should be able to get the carbs sorted out without spending more money or buying an old motor. And giving the carbs to a pro will cost you hundreds....

Did you synch the carbs when you had them on your bench? How did you clean them, exactly? Soak or spray? Blow out all the passages with compressed air? Remove all parts and jets?

The oil leak behind the cover may be an easy fix and probably not worth buying an old engine. I bet it's a shifter shaft seal, very easy to replace and costs a few dollars.

If you want more information you may want to check out kz400.com and ask there.
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Old 10-06-2008   #13 (permalink)
rrich49132
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Thanks for the input. I just sprayed the carbs out even though they looked fine no buildup at all. I took the jets out and soaked in carb cleaner, adjusted the mixture screws to 2.5 turns then put it back on the bike. It did start this time with still lots of work and was better than before.

This time when I take them off I am going to be a bit more diligent and look up what exactly should I do? Take everything apart and soak in carb cleaner or seafoam?

As for synching the carbs I have not done that as I can't get the bike to stay running long enough to do that. I can only start with full choke and when I take it off it dies.

Anyways will clean better this time around and spray out the carbs with air which I did not do before just sprayed the jets.

Once I get this fixed will figure out the oil leak. If you know of some article you can point me to as to what I should do when the carbs are off to clean it would be appreciated.

Last edited by rrich49132 : 10-06-2008 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 10-20-2008   #14 (permalink)
brown recluse
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I have just come across your thread. If you still have your carburetors off of the bike, then try to bench sync them before you put them back on. It may improve the performance well enough where the bike will run and you can do the full sync with the motor running.

Here are the basic instructions on the bench sync process. Once you learn it, it is fairly easy.
THE KAWASAKI TWIN OWNERS FORUM :: View topic - What is the process for a carburetor bench synch?

Instead of a drill bit, I used a thin fine jewelry wire. I have also read that you can use a thin guitar string.

Once the carbs are back on the bike, make sure that you have a good seal on all of the rubber inlets and they are not cracked. To check, while the bike is running, spray starter fluid around the inlets/boots. If air is getting through, then the rpms will go up.

Make sure your air filter is clean and seated properly in the airbox groove.

Good luck

Last edited by brown recluse : 10-20-2008 at 10:28 AM. Reason: additional information
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #15 (permalink)
Gunnerman12
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Ok, I was having that problem with my kz 305, I was being hard headed and thinking that my carb boots were fine since I could not see any cracks, I finally took them off and they were dry rotten to hell, patched them up until I my new part come in and damn, what a difference, it runs smooth and I suggest that you try spaying dw 40 around the carb boots once you get it running, if the rpms go up them that's your problem.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #16 (permalink)
rrich49132
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Thanks,
I shipped my carbs off as I am getting them rebuilt. The carbs boots look fine but will pull them off this weekend and see if they are good.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #17 (permalink)
brown recluse
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Sorry you ended up sending the carbs off, but I know they can be frustrating.

So, since you have some down time, now would be a good time to read up on adjusting valve clearances. It takes just a little studying and after you do the first one, the rest are incredibly easy.

Let me know if you need help. I can send you links and my own notes.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #18 (permalink)
rrich49132
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That is exactly what I am going to do this weekend.
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