REjet Question, and another newb question

[toates89]

Edit: the bike is a 80 kz440 ltd

Ok so after digging through the box of junk the PO gave me i didn't turn up any original air box. there was only two new open element pods. will i need to rejet? and if so what size jets and where could i purchase these?

i also couldn't find two parts and would like to know if anyone can explain what they are and what they do.

the first, the cover on the ride side of the engine is missing. what exactly is that inside component.(the smaller maybe 3 inch diameter cover.

the second, on the peice of metal that has the gears labeled 1-6 that was off when i bought the bike and i couldnt figure out what that metal peice was that can be pulled out (its the size of a pen). and what ever is supposed to be connected by the two screws is missing. i have no idea what it was and what it did.

on a good note i successfully drilled out the two master cyclinder screws and cleaned out the crap that build up for 15 yrs. and i also got the piston to move.

[StarGate]

If you run pods then you will most likely have to go to a bigger than than the factory. Can't help on size or location to purchase.

I think (not 100% sure on the 440) the small cover on the right is the cover for the points. Behind the points should be the mechanical advance mechanism.

The part that you said is "the size of a pen", is it sticking out of the engine just forward of the front sprocket?

Pics would help in trying to identify stuff for you.

[toates89]

yeah the part right in front of the front sprocket. i think it has something to do with the clutch but i am not sure and i know something is missing.

[StarGate]

That would be the clutch pushrod and yes you have to have it for the clutch to work.

[toates89]

ok so i have a couple of questions

one: the cover on the right is off and i dont think its points i was looking at bikebandits.com and according to the diagrams it changed from 80-81. is that correct? and for some reason i have the 81 version. so i am guessing i the pulsar coil setup. does this sound stupid? i am just confused because the guy i bought it from said it was a 79 and it doesnt seem to be a 79. i just want to make sure all the parts that are supposed to be there are there. so if it is an 81 what should be there?

two: the clutch pushrod is there, it is able to be pulled in and out to a certain point. is that normal? and the clutch adjustment mechanism is missing. right now i am trying to get the part, but can someone explain how this setup works?

and lastly the bike has been sitting for 15 years, it has 9500 miles on it, and i just have a couple of stupid questions. i have this feeling that i am gunna put the bike bake together and i am gunna have massive electrical componets not working(i am not exp in the electrical derpartment). mechanically i am not worried the bike has good compression, the carbs are immaculate, and it shifts through all the gears.

What should i figure might be bad after sitting all that time. how reliable are the alts on these things, coils etc.

thanks for reading and please dont mind the newb questions

[herk]

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[toates89]

sry answered my own question

[toates89]

ok so i have another question

i have the pulsing coil ignition system(not sure the tech name)

so i was looking at it and mine seems to have perches for springs on the advance system. but i have no springs. if you understand what i am saying should there be springs.

god i need a camera

[StarGate]

Well I said points because your initial post started saying "79 kz440" which would have made it points. Since you have electronic ignition, (indicated by the presence of a pulsar coil) that means it's an 81 or later model or someone has changed out the points for the electronic ign.

The pushrod should slide out if you need to remove it but be careful as there is a small ball behind it that may fall out if you remove the rod. The ball is critical to the clutch operation also. It sounds like you are missing the actuator from the engine cover. What it does. When you pull the clutch lever, the cable pulls an arm on the actuator. In return the actuator presses the rod in and that disengages the clutch.

The mechanical advance (located behind the pulsar) has springs attached to it so it sounds like yours might be missing. Do like Herk suggested and go to the parts diagram at Kawasaki.com.

[toates89]

yeah i looked at the parts diagram but it showed no springs but i am gunna go to the local bike shop and see what i can pick up as far as springs go.

and right now am in the process of buying the actuator, and adjuster.

after the parts come in the bike should be able to be started after i wire it.

i am also in need a a full exhaust or just headers a tach and speedo cable and a light.

if anyone is selling them email me at toates89@yahoo.com

and i was reading that i can buy rubber plastic pipe connectors and use them to connect the carb to the engine. any info on this set up.

[StarGate]

Just checked and they have the advance mechanism facing the wrong way so the springs aren't visible. I know it's not the same but here is a link that shows a similar setup on an auto distributor to at least give you an idea.
Scroll down to the last picture.
Mechanical Ignition Advance, by Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced Distibutors LLC

Someone posted that they used those for connectors to the airbox, but I don't have any first hand knowledge as to whether it will work or not.

[toates89]

What about srping rate i am sure a motorcycle store will have it but maybe with a different srping rate. think anything will work?

also how are the carbs held up? is it just tehe rubber boots and the air box? because i didnt get an air box with my purchase

[herk]

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[toates89]

stupid question: where is the brake spring supposed to attach to? there is no place on the frame expect the stud for the swing arm.\

stupid question 2: shouldnt my ignition key that works for the gas tank work for the seat lock? because it doesnt.

[StarGate]

Originally Posted by toates89

stupid question: where is the brake spring supposed to attach to? there is no place on the frame expect the stud for the swing arm.\

stupid question 2: shouldnt my ignition key that works for the gas tank work for the seat lock? because it doesnt.

Almost any key (or small piece of metal for that mater) will open the POS lock on the gas cap. You have to have the correct and real key for the seat lock and ignition. Someone may have lost the original key and replaced the ignition or your lock may be rusty/dirty and stuck.

Not sure what your spring hooks to or presses against. There are a few variations between bike models for this. I'm assuming you mean the large spring for the pedal return and not the small one for the brake light switch.

[toates89]

yes i was refering to the brake pedal return spring i think i am gunna just hook it to the stud and put a nut to hold it from sliding.


anyways of getting around the lock mechanism

[StarGate]

After removing the grab bar from my bike, I was attempting to put it on the center stand and used the seat to lift on the back of the bike. I discovered a very hard pull will actually snap the seat out of the lock on my bike. I'm not sure if yours will do the same but I know if I ever lose my key I can still open the seat on mine.

[Bill Frazier]

The brake pedal return spring is attached to a bracket on the muffler. The muffler is attached to the passenger footpeg bolt.
If you do not have the stock muffler you will have to make up something to attach it to.

Bill Frazier
'82 KZ440LTD

[toates89]

Edit i numbered the questions so you dont have to read this entire thing

well i went to the local parts store and lowes and spent maybe 25 bucks on missing hardware. thats always fun, sitting and checking each bolt.

the plus side: i made a real nifty rear bushing for the gas tank. just a simple hex bolt, large washer and i found these rubber things at lowes which i cut in half and it works great. and only cost me 3 bucks.

i also found new master screws(had to drill them out for 50 cents a pop not bad in my opinion)

1)the negative side: realized the threads for the key ignition are Fubar.

Any ideas how to fix the thread or rethread them? or a different mounting system.


2)also where could i find a master link for my chain?


3)finally since this is the first bike i have been on and cant take it for a test drive i was wondering what are standard characteristics of forks at a stationary position?

For example say i am sitting on the bike and i lean foward is it normal for the forks to drop about 3 maybe 4 inches? to my this seems like they are soft but then again i dont know what normal is. seals aren't leaking. is there a standard way of checking wheather the spring rate or fluid level is at the correct point with out opening it up?


and to make all these questions worth your time and to reassure you that the bike is making progress, i will try and take pics the weekend. i just found a local bike being parted out ans should have all the parts i need this weekend. and i can wire it this weekend and clean the tank and i should have a running bike




another question,

4)what size fuel lines are the kz440 running. i am ordering the fuel filter and i am not sure which to go with


5) this should be my last question for the night. so right now my front brake lines are empty, its fitted with all new links new pads, i just cleaned the master piston and all. but if i take a look at the pads in retrospect to the disc they aren;t Equal distance. Is that normal? ill try to demonstate it with keys from my key board

the following letters represent: all from a front view perspective
(D) is the left pad
(C) is the right pad
(l) is the disk


this is what it looks like

D lC

shouldnt the distance between D(left pad) be the same distance as C(rigth pad) is from the disc. i think the left pad is maybe 3/16ths away from the disc while the right is just touching.

[Bill Frazier]

The master link is available anywhere they sell bike parts, as chains are standard items. Yours is a size 530. The chain that came with the bike is a non o-ring, heavy duty type. Whatever you have now may be different. The master link should match the chain.
The forks do NOT sound normal, and should not dive like that. I don't know of any way of checking it without tearing it down.
Fuel line is 1/4".
If you can get the airbox and filter holder from that parts bike, do so. Trying to get it running properly with pod filters and rejetting is a losing battle.

Bill Frazier
'82 KZ440LTD
Original owner