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Old 10-13-2008   #1 (permalink)
DrKayak
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Default My Z1 that wasn’t…

In 1980 I started college and bought my 4th motorcycle, a 1976 KZ900. I loved that bike and had some great times riding it. Fast forward to Summer 2008. I was spending $150 a week commuting in my truck, time for another bike. I bought a Supermoto and rode it every day. 6,000 miles later I was ready for something else, a Z1.

My first candidate was a Craigslist nightmare – completely trashed 76 KZ900, no title, no air filters, no gauges, seat strapped on with an old ammo belt. To demonstrate what a great bike it was the owner locked the front brake and proceed to roast the rear tire at full throttle as he yelled “I think all the noise is the timing chain”. $1,100 firm!

A week later a 75 Z1b showed up in the Bay area. $1,300 asking and it looked great. It was a 150 mil drive so I figure I would just buy it if I drove that far. It was not as nice as the picture looked. But it ran (poorly) and shifted OK.. Here’s how it looked when I got it home Header rusted, missing side covers, nice seat, OK paint:

Case screws all rusted, lots of aluminum oxide.

Rotten foam air filters, carbs leaking gas, oil leaks.


A lot more rust that the pictures show. It would only run with the choke on and poorly then. Time to pull the carbs....

Verson 1 -

New Clutch Cable
Repaced all case bolts w/stainless
Air filter set
78 SR650 Gauge set (26,740 miles showing)
New Plugs
Change fork oil
Engine oil/filter
Front brake bracket
Replaced missing Right side cover
Replaced right passenger peg cover
Replaced brake fluid, fixed master cylinder
Checked brake pads
Disk cleaned with 80grit sandpaper
Aluminum cleaner
Panted exhaust, new crush gaskets
Packed rear wheel bearings, checked brake shoes.
Valve adjustment (2 new shims)
Clean Carburetors



Version 1 ran poorly for 8 miles till the clutch rod fused:



Version 2 -

APE extra disk clutch kit w/springs
APE roller bearing clutch pusher
Clutch rod
New bowl gaskets on crabs.
Proper tank name badges
repaired windsheild and installed



I rode v2 40 miles to work and back. It need starting fluid when cold, i found #3 Cylinder was cold and it leaked oil bad from the stator plug.

Version 3 -
New points cover
Z1B side badges
New float needle valve (4)
New size #20 pilot jets (4)
Power to the coils directly from battery w/relay mod.
New Dyna green 3 ohm coils
New Plug wires
New oil CastroGTX20w50(26,876 mi. showing)
New oil filter
Correct muffler clamp
Replace bad plug
Stator wire plug (fixed oil leak)





Version 3 runs great. The cold cylinder was a bad plug. I did 100 miles today. I love it!.

As to the title of the post? Although the bike has a 10/75 manufacture date, it is actually a 76 KZ900. I knew some of the parts were wrong for a Z1b butr figured it had beed crashed and had some parts off a KZ. The seller was 100% sure it was a Z1B. Turns out it was a mostly origional KZ900..

Version 4? --- Now that I have proved it will run I have dual disks ready to istall and a OE sissy bar on the way.
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Old 10-13-2008   #2 (permalink)
StarGate
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Looking good. It's come a long ways since you purchased. Do you happen to know the brand/model of the windshield?

If the header wasn't too rusty (badly pitted), you might want to look in to having it powder coated. It looks good and holds up well and will preserve the pipe based on what a friend had done to his.

BTW judging by the picture, you seem to be very young to be doing all this work and riding that big of a bike.

P.S. For your duplicate post, if you go into edit mode on it, it gives you a delete option so you can delete that one.
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Last edited by StarGate : 10-13-2008 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 10-13-2008   #3 (permalink)
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You may have to change the master cylinder on the front as the set up you have now might give trouble if a dual disc braking system is installed.

Several stories are on the various forums about doing what you are considering. Guys have crashed due to not running a larger bore master cylinder when they upgrade to dual front discs.

KZrider.com - Home is one I go to.
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Old 10-13-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarGate View Post
Do you happen to know the brand/model of the windshield? .
It's made by National Cycle "street shield" model. It offers good protection for commuting this time of year.
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Old 10-13-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Default Nice job...

Your list of had to do stuff is not unique. It is about what I had to do to all three of my KZ1100s I dragged home not running. I still have a long way to go compared to your bike though....chris3
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Old 10-13-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFolks View Post
You may have to change the master cylinder on the front .
I have the complete front brake setup off a 76 900LTD, both disks, master cylinder and both calipers. Comparing the LTD master cylinder to the one I have they look identical. I plan on using all stainless brake lines. Compared to those 30+ year old rubber lines, that should more than make up for the undersized master cylinder.
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Old 10-13-2008   #7 (permalink)
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The dimensions are internal for a larger master cylinder as externally they may look the same. It's the amount of fluid moved that makes a difference.
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Old 10-13-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Front Master Cylinder Ratio Chart is a website for master cylinder ratios that might come in handy for upgrading front braking systems.
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Old 10-13-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKayak View Post
It's made by National Cycle "street shield" model. It offers good protection for commuting this time of year.
Thank you. Got a couple more questions about it if you don't mind. How many mount points does it have, is it stable (no vibrations/flapping around) at highway speeds, and does it offer easy/fast removal? I'm asking, because I want to get one with all these qualities but don't want a huge windshield. That one looks perfect for what I had in mind.
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Old 10-14-2008   #10 (permalink)
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The windshield mounts with 2 steel rods to very substantial clamps on the handle bars. You extend the rods to change the angle. I have it as vertical as possible. It just sits on the headlight as the 3rd point.

One of the mount points was broken off the Plexiglas shield when I bought the bike. I epoxy it and it is holding up fine. I consider the mounting system as excellent, the quality of the Plexiglas is cheap compared to a used BMW shield I have mounted to my other bike. It is the minimum height to be able to get completely behind without laying on the tank. No weird turbulence off the top edge. I have gone over 100mph with it.

To remove it you loosen the clamps and pull the bars out. Leave the clamps on the handlebars.

I like it.
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Last edited by DrKayak : 10-14-2008 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 10-14-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Excellent. One last thing I forgot to ask that is important depending on your height I guess. How tall is the sheild from handlebars to the top of it?
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Old 10-14-2008   #12 (permalink)
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It's 15 inches from the top of the fork nut to the top of the shield.
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Old 10-15-2008   #13 (permalink)
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I have similar shields on two bikes. I've never felt the need or desire to remove either one. Go for it Mike!
BTW DrKayak that is one really nice looking bike. I'd be proud to have such a machine in my stable!
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Old 10-15-2008   #14 (permalink)
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I looked at the National site and apparently they've made some changes to the shape and mounting of that model. I'm going to contact them and see what info I can get.
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Old 10-16-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antiq View Post
DrKayak that is one really nice looking bike. I'd be proud to have such a machine in my stable!
Thanks, Vince, It took a month of long evenings to get it this far. I still have some little fixes to do..I honestly thought it was never going to run as good as it does now.

I have a new chrome rear fender coming thanks to getting rear-ended in traffic yesterday. I did not care for the black fender anyway.
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Old 10-16-2008   #16 (permalink)
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It's looking really sweet. Nice work.
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