kz1300 stator tests grounded

[jftman]

my ohm readings between the three yellow wires are within the manuals specs, but the three all are shorted to ground. the bike maintains the battery at 12.25 volts when on open road. The 4pin connector to the stator was melted, when I went to solder the leads and eliminate the plastic connector, as the kz1300 club website recommends. My Kuryakyn battery monitor never sees green.

Is there an explanation as to why the bike charges at all, and how are they grounded now. My hope is to find the ground condition and fix it, and hold out that the stator must be still ok. Perhaps the wires are pinched and making contact with the case cover?

Could the stator be OK and the leads test grounded short, and the bike still charge at all?
thanks for the info. jim

[MFolks]

Go to ElectroSport Industries - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV Aftermarket Electrical Parts and look at their troubleshooting diagram. It might help in the diagnosis of your problem.

Some other websites for stators are: Stator - RM Stator - High Performance CDI, Rectifier, High Output Generator,Yamaha Stator, Honda Stator, Stator Repair, Arctic cat ZR stator, Arctic cat thundercat stator, Ski-doo stator repair,Yamaha Warrior stator,Yamaha Grizzly stator,Yamaha Pulse and Custom Rewind -- High Quility Remanufactured Motorsports Electronics, Rotors, Stators, Ignition Systems

[jftman]

Ok, just one thing, tomorrow i plan to take the disassembly on, is there something here that gives a stator out test? If it is grounded to the chassis then some verification of that connection should exist on the bench, then I throw it away and spend the c-note at bike bandit.
One benefit is our charging system can stand a better than oem stator, which sources you give manufacture.
thanks for the additional info.
jim

[MFolks]

I'd imagine the stator is similar to the one in my 82 GPZ1100 B2 having three yellow wires from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. One test for my bike is to dis-connect the stator,start the bike, bring the rpm to 4k and see if the output is around 50 Volts of Alternating Current.

My factory shop manual has an ohmeter check that reads like this"Put the ohmeter in ohms times 1 and read between any of the three yellow wires for readings between 0.36 to 0.54 ohms. If the reading is greater than 0.54 the stator has an open lead"

"Using the highest resistance range of the ohmeter,measure each yellow lead to chassis ground. Any reading less than infinity indicates a short requiring stator replacement".

Before laying out $$$$ for a replacement I'd remove the stator cover and examine carefully the wiring for signs of discoloration and burning. Look at the clamps holding the wiring from the stator to the rectifier/regulator as vibration may have worn through the insulation and caused a short.


This will probably require another person for help as trying to hold a meter,read the voltage and run the engine to 4K is a bit much.

[mumbles]

Do as MFolks suggested and if it is the stator at fault give Rick's Motorsport Electrics - Home a call. I just replaced mine and the stator was a direct fit unlike the one from Electrosport.

[ssrsonny]

if the wires are shorted to ground the stator will work as a paper weight but it wont charge your battery.thanks.sonny

[jftman]

call me stubborn...as of yet i have not cracked the case. i found the trouble shooting link given on the electrosport web site helpful. it includes more parameters than the repair manual for the bike.

i did measure 58-63volts ac between all the pairs of output wires. i have not fussed with the reg/rectifier yet. i initially found the connector melted and some damage to the wires which i have repaired. it is true that the stator leads are all grounded, but it is providing voltage with no loads on the three pairs measured.

the Kawasaki repair manual says if there is voltage in this manner it is working properly???
the voltages may be different from each other since when i measured i only touched the voltmeter lead to one, and clamped it to the other reference.

the electrosport trouble shooter said the voltages must be equal/identical or the stator is at fault? Maybe i should verify this...

when i drive the bike something weird happens as shown by the Kuryakyn charging monitor. If i light the brake lights either the front or back brake switch, it really effects the circuit. I wondered if the high beam would do the same, it didn't. if i switch from low to high the highest yellow led just blinks once and remains on, while the brake light looses one LED and the unit flashes the danger zone saying low voltage and no charge. I can be doing 70mph and 4.5k rpm and all i have to do is briefly touch the brake and this happens instantly.

the electrosport flow chart uses a method to check the switched power wire, the brown for this bike's output at the rect/reg, the circuit that wacks out the alternator. The brown wire feeds many lights and equipment on this bike as found in the schematic;in fact i have the charge monitor wired to the brown wire that used to be used for the fuel valve,so this no doubt why the unit loses it's voltage, but should it not recover like the switch from low to high beam? .

the question is this, what does it mean when the yellow stator output wires are all grounded with continuity to ground (not just low resistance to ground),

and when there is the ac output from the wire pairs higher than 50vac but perhaps not all the same number, and the bike when put together and ridden will charge the system to some level/degree.

Last night I left with 12.30volts on the battery and returned with much use of the high beam with 12.45volts?????

Tonight i road a good thirty miles,mostly open roads,battery on tender had 13.30 volts, on return it was 12.30v. it started right up, if the bike charging system was very weak or nil, the lights would dim and the blinkers would be slowing or fail to work.
Anyone knoe the test for battery return voltage under load?
Anyone been here before? jim

[jftman]

MFOLKS, thanks for the link for the trouble shooting diagram on electrosports,
i have posted more info regarding my trouble, it bothers me to have grounded wires but measure lots of alternator output with those stator wires shorted to ground.

[ssrsonny]

i have been working on kawasaki's since 1975.if the 3 stator wires are shorted to ground it is no going to charge.it may be possible that it will charge some but very little if any.replace the stator and save yourself a lot of trouble.i would also check the reg/rect. it could be bad also.