Need Help with idle

[toates89]

BIKE:Kz440 1981

I finally got the bike running using a little container for the gas tank. it starts right up and revs to 6k with the choke butterflies closed with them open it races more. i usually kill it withen 3 seconds.

i havent checked the floats yet could that cause that?

what else should i check?
a list would be nice

THANKS DUDES I WOULDNT HAVE DONE THIS WITH OUT THE HELP OF THE FORUM

[07Ninja250]

Idle screw mis-adjusted
Leak in intake boots
Throttle cable / arm sticking
Choke sticking

[toates89]

tomorrow i am giong to check out the intake boots but i think they are fine, i only see a little crack where the top meets and i am gunna smear some gasket sealer over it.

the throttle cable is fine if the flaps are close when i am off the throttle right?

the idle screw controls the butterflies nearest the engine correct? because its backed all the way out.

choke is fine i inpected them because no filters are on it.

[EthanKZ750]

check your throttle positioning, its a phillips head screw inbetween the carburators on my 750, then check the two cable attachments up on the handle bar just bellow the throttle. i just delt with this today, combination of adjusting the idle, throttle position, and the cables and my bike now idles comfortably at 900 rpms

[MFolks]

Another place to look is the ignition advancer mechanism. The weights must move to be able to advance and retard the ignition. It is behind a cover on the right side (about cd size).

[zoro]

You indicated that you had your carbs apart and cleaned them, Did you inspect the slider-diaphrams,cracks,holes or separation from the slides? It sounds like to me that you may have some maladjusted carbs.You also indicated that the RPMs increased when you "Opened" the choke.If you still have the pods off the intakes, using a mirror if necessary,(engine off) look inside the carb intake, beyond the open choke butterfly and you should be able to see the "Slide".The opening at the very bottom of that slide should be no larger than a pencil-lead.The slides should "freely snap closed" when you release an open throttle.You might also have somebody rotate the throttle to wide open,and inspect the needles for slight bends or any slanted or crooked appearance. Im 90% sure your problem is carb,and/or linkage related.An air leak before the back edge of the cabs will not cause the rpm to race as high as described.A partially open slide will, especially when you open the choke to allow more air.By the way, you've made great progress thus far,hang in there! "waiting for an update".........

[toates89]

i just looked at it, and when i took the carbs off i inspected the throttle butterfly valves and they were almost closed, and then i opened the choke and it looks like the sliders isnt closed like use said. they do snap and move freely. but it seems there are stops that prohibit them from closing like you explained.

[toates89]

ill post a video

[toates89]

its a little better it starts out at 4000rpms and then it floors its self until it reaches 8000 rpms. it seems like its just getting too much gas. could this be because of the float levels?

can someone explain how they work?

[toates89]

i have checked the cables a million times now. i leave the throttle cable on and pull the carbs and the throttle valve is near closed everytime. Is it safe to rule that out?

[zoro]

Here we go....First,unless that bike had "ape-hanger"handle bars on it, the existing clutch cable can be re-routed to use-up the extra 2-3 inches in length.I put "superbike" bars in place of the stock bars on my bike and was faced with the same problem.There should be two locations on the clutch cable that allow adjustment,one is at the lever,the split nut and bolt adjuster,and the second one is usually 18-24 inches up from the clutch.It is important to route and anchor the cable away from the damaging heat of the exhaust pipes.It is also important to maintain a"free flowing"effect in routing so as not to kink,pinch or sharply bend the cable,especially when turning the bars.I ran mine under the gauges,behind the headlight,and around the right side of the steering stem then back to the left side frame tube.I have three clamps fixing it to that tube to maintain clearance from the header pipes.Make sure the "in-line adjuster" is in its shortest position to allow for final adjustment. Keep asking the questions,"the only stupid question is the one that goes unasked!!! keep us updated..... Carbs Next!!!

[toates89]

[toates89]

What i am doing right now is taking the carbs from the engine i just bought and i just cleansed them. Passages seem to be clean. Now i have all the jets sitting in cleaner. Tomorrow i am going to put them together.

[zoro]

What i am doing right now is taking the carbs from the engine i just bought and i just cleansed them. Passages seem to be clean. Now i have all the jets sitting in cleaner. Tomorrow i am going to put them together.

Those carbs can develope a metallic calcite that is resistant to solvents and cleaners thus remaining after a soaking.Youve indicated having the carbs apart before,..is there a possibility that a part or piece of a part has been lost? OK,while the carbs are off,Itemize and list the jets(sizes)Pilot jets and main jets along with main jet needles and their sizes noting the location of the "e"clips and washer/spacer assembly orders (if applicable)Work one carb at a time so you have a reference for reassembly.Not so fast,be patient carefully inspecting o-rings,springs,mating surfaces etc.Why dont you PM me with a phone number and I can better explain option and ideas,Ill PM mine to you too so as not to "Blow"your cover Awaiting ...

[toates89]

More detail.

I have two sets of carbs one off the original engine the other off the new engine. i attempted to start the bike with the original and i have been having trouble as stated. now i took the new ones apart dropped the bowls and removed the jets from one carb at a time and put them in cups and fill them up with carb cleaner. i then took out the slides and put them aside and cleaned each one. i then took the carbs outside(8*) and cleaned them with the carb cleaner(i know i should dip it) but i took the red straw and placed it in each passage and sprayed and it went though. i am gunna go over each one more time very throughly and then set up the new carbs and give it a wack with the gas tank.

[zoro]

Is there any differences in the main jet sizes and needle sizes in comparing the old carbs to the new?

[toates89]

i havent checked yet, will update tomorrow

[zoro]

The reason I asked is that you had indicated after market exhaust and pods,the previous owner may have drilled the main jets rendering the jet needles useless and allowing an unchecked flow of fuel ....add a little air or open a choke and the engine races,regardless of throttle position...The fix is close at hand!!! Hang in there!.....Over and out...

[toates89]

the exhaust is stock. dont know where that mix up came in but it is stock. but wasnt off this bike, this bike came with no exhaust so maybe the PO has intentions of putting one on and drilling the jets.

[zoro]

Yeah my bad...I probably had you confused with another poster who also had a 440...that's not to say that through process of elimination your bike will be up and running before the thaw!