How to keep your motor oil cool???

[1428Kaw]

Lets say with an older kaw...like a KZ1000 bored out to a 1428...how do I know what size cooler or cooling capacity that I will need. I have seen a few Lochart oil coolers but each one was a different size and I am not sure.I could see that placement on the bike will be another important decision to ensure that it get good heat transfer(if this is the correct term), but I am also looking at a cosmectic appearence.Would adding a low profile fan to the cooler make any major differences?

[MFolks]

A website that sells oil coolers,lines, and fittings is at earlshome They carry the Earl's Supply line of hardware.

[brokenrod]

It's advised to run the cooler lines on the side of the block opposed to the top to help with cooling too. If the lines are on top, its basically sandwiched between the hot head and the gas tank- weak heat transfer

[Killbert]

Installing a fan depends on what kind of riding you do. As long as there is some convection (air moving through the cooler) you won't need a fan. If your bike just idles around and gets going 15mph at best, that cooler isn't doing you any good at all and a fan will be a crucial upgrade.

Regarding the actual size.... Anything will help. Something is always better than nothing. Getting the correct oil level with a new cooler installed is relatively easy. Overfill the crankcase by a 1/4 of a quart and crank the bike with the coils disconnected and plugs removed, and let turn over for 10 seconds or so.To be sure, I would crack the outlet line of the cooler and wait for oil to flow out. Now check the level. 1/4 of a quart usually does it, but could still be a little low. If you decide on an extremely small cooler, overfill by 1/8 a quart instead. Hope this helps.

Kellyn

[ChurchBuilder]

Check out OldKawMan's Vintage and Classic Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha USED Motorcycle Parts and High Performance He has instructions and oil cooler kits for sale.

[1428Kaw]

Thanks everyone for your responses. It's nice to know that you can get answer and/or suggestions by letting your fingers do the walking.

[MFolks]

kawasaki vintage motorcycle part, kawasaki classic motorcycle, streetfighter part, motor bike part - AmericanClassix.com carries oil cooler fitings for the older bikes.

[1428Kaw]

MFolks, or anyone else who may like to comment,what's you opinion on an oil additive? Will it cause any problems with an oil cooler?
What I'm curious about is the additives sticking to the inner tubes of the oil cooler which would then cause restiction at some point in time.

[brokenrod]

With Any additives you must be very careful. Your KZ has a wet clutch which means your clutch plates are bathed in the engine oil. Adding an additive to your oil can make your clutch slip. Keep up with oil changes and use a quality oil and you should be fine . Just my $.02

[Jeff.saunders]

You have an awkward tradeoff. With those big-blocks, you have no airflow through the cylinders, so with the combination of the large capacity and no airflow, you run the risk of severe overheating.

Oil coolers REDUCE effective oil pressure to the engine. The oil pump has to push the oil to the cooler and back to the engine.

If you haven't already, you need to optimize your oil pump - lap the sides of the pump case to get the tollerances as tight to spec as possible.

Alternatively, you might consider installing an electric oil pump to push oil to a cooler.

With the engine running hot, you should be running a heavy oil - 20w/50 rather than 10w40. The problem here is the oil is thicker at startup, so it will take a few minutes to thin before you can push the bike hard.

You need to do everything you can to keep the engine cool. You want to retard your ignition time 3-4 degrees over stock - possibly more. I would recommend a Dyna 2000 ignition system as you can easily control the advance/retard settings - and even reprogram the electronic advance.

Chroming engine covers is a bad idea - they reduce the heat transfer to the air. Polishing rough cast covers / cases should be avoided as well. ...and don't paint the cases/covers...

You may need to run richer jetting on the center carbs. Much depends on how you'll ride the bike...

[Killbert]

Thanks for posting that good info.

[1428Kaw]

Jeff,
Thanks for the info. I am currently running 20w/50 with Lucas additive. I had the motor completely done by KPM which they specialize in high performance engine building (mainly for drag racing). I recall that KPM had lapped the sides of the oil pump cases and added an oil trap.
What is your suggestion on a electric oil pump? Is it something that can be added in a location outside the motor or will it be an internal sealed pump? I do not know anything about this type of application.
As for a Dyna system...I am currently using the Dyna400.
I was told before that chroming covers is and always will be a bad idea for motorcylce engines. I am currently looking at buying new covers instead.
With the 36mm flatside carbs on the bike I have noticed a lunging,jerking motion when riding at lower rpm. At mid range and up to 3/4 throttle the bikes runs great. When you open them up...hang on!!!!!

[Jeff.saunders]

no suggestions on the brand oil pump - I know some of the people building turbo motors go down this path to increase oil flow to the turbo. Dragbike.com may be a good place to research.

You would need to tap into the oil pan for the pickup, the return could be a few different places - the kickstarter cover is one you can find pre-made as it's used for turbo oil returns (I have one on my bike - I think Mr Turbo still provides this.

Actually Mr Turbo might be a place to try for the external oil pump - they probably have them for turbo applications.

You probably want to experiment with the ignition retarding to solve the low-rpm lurching. The Dyna 4000 is a great drag race ignition - I prefer the Dyna 2000 for the street as you can tailor advance retard whereas the 4000 is designed for high rpm running and peak performance rather than streetability.

[Randew2u]

I have a Lockhart oil cooler on my 82 Spectre. I dont like the way the tubing is routed up under the tank, wire tied to the frame and wonder if there is a better route that will offer more cooling. Should I just lay it on the valve cover and leave slack? I like the ACALA tubing that oldkawman uses. Does anyone know what ID the tubing used on the Lockhart systems is? I could almost run a section of brass tubing across the engine bay to improve cooling. My OEM tubing is dry rotted and needs to be replaced. I attached a picture showing the routing of the tubing.

[1428Kaw]

Is there a device that will allow me to check to see what my current retard timming is? Timing light of some sort.

[MFolks]

A website earlshome sells oil coolers,lines and fittings that might work. I sent a guy who will redo his oil lines in the gas flex style to this website.

[Mekial82kzp]

the earlshome link is not working

I've also read that you can drill and tap some of your existing oil fittings to work, although I could never find instructions...

[MFolks]

For the Earls performance plumbing items(oil coolers,lines and fittings) try going to Holley Performance Earls Products (It looks like the Earls service shop link is no good).