My brakes don't work? [Archive] - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums

My brakes don't work?

iridebikes
06-20-2012, 12:07 PM
I dont suppose anyone would be able to help? I tried changing my brake pads and bleeding my brakes for the first time the other day, the back brake went ok, when i came to do the front i thought i'd clean the pistons up but one of them popped out,now i've got no front brakes at all.
If i take the banjo bolt off the caliper nothing even comes out enen when pumping the lever, its a twin disc system which confusing me a bit, should i bleed the other side (furthest away) first? Any tips?? cheers

MFolks
06-20-2012, 01:42 PM
If possible, remove the calipers fron the front forks,place a piece of wood between the brake pads & raise them above the master cylinder brake reservoir. This will get the trapped air bubbles out of the system easier. Also, using a hand operated vacuum pump called "MityVac" makes brake bleeding easier. Sometimes, filling the resevior to the correct level,securing the cover, and then either usung a ty-wrap or a piece of rope tying the brake lever to the "Squeezed" position, allows trapped air to travel to the reservoir.

Mityvac Mv8000 Brake Bleeding Kit | MotoSport (http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/MITYVAC-MV8000-BRAKE-BLEEDING-KIT)
Mityvac , MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit MV8020 (http://www.toolsource.com/brake-bleeding-mv8020-p-105071.html)

18wheelfixer
06-20-2012, 03:22 PM
If possible, remove the calipers fron the front forks,place a piece of wood between the brake pads & raise them above the master cylinder brake reservoir. This will get the trapped air bubbles out of the system easier. Also, using a hand operated vacuum pump called "MityVac" makes brake bleeding easier. Sometimes, filling the resevior to the correct level,securing the cover, and then either usung a ty-wrap or a piece of rope tying the brake lever to the "Squeezed" position, allows trapped air to travel to the reservoir.

Mityvac Mv8000 Brake Bleeding Kit | MotoSport (http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/MITYVAC-MV8000-BRAKE-BLEEDING-KIT)
Mityvac , MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit MV8020 (http://www.toolsource.com/brake-bleeding-mv8020-p-105071.html)

Too complicated, messy, and doesn't always do the trick... Try these instead. Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder (http://www.speedbleeder.com/) They replace the OEM bleeder screws and have a ball and spring that lets air out and closes the passage when you release the lever. Well worth the price of admission and you'll be pleased.

cpg
06-21-2012, 05:39 PM
I used the old method for bleeding my brakes and it worked fine. Get some cheap gas line or hose (clear) that will attach to your bleeder and cut the top off an old pop bottle (or use a can, whatever you have). Attach the hose to your bleeder then put the other end of the hose in the bottle (do one caliper at a time if you have twin disc) and fill the bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose. Then, open the bleeder and pump the brakes. Keep pumping the brakes until you don't have any more bubbles coming out (reason for clear hose; so you can see), then close the bleeder. Having the end of the hose submerged in brake fluid will keep air from re-entering the system when you release the brake lever. The speed bleeders would be preferable but this way works just fine and there is no waiting for shipping and it only costs a few dollars for the hose. If you don't have any fluid through your caliper yet just use this system, hook up your brake lines, keep your master cylinder full, and keep going. It took a long time and a lot of pumping to get the fluid down to the calipers on my CSR 1000 (has twin disc). Just keep going and it will eventually get there.

18wheelfixer
06-21-2012, 09:38 PM
I used the old method for bleeding my brakes and it worked fine. Get some cheap gas line or hose (clear) that will attach to your bleeder and cut the top off an old pop bottle (or use a can, whatever you have). Attach the hose to your bleeder then put the other end of the hose in the bottle (do one caliper at a time if you have twin disc) and fill the bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose. Then, open the bleeder and pump the brakes. Keep pumping the brakes until you don't have any more bubbles coming out (reason for clear hose; so you can see), then close the bleeder. Having the end of the hose submerged in brake fluid will keep air from re-entering the system when you release the brake lever. The speed bleeders would be preferable but this way works just fine and there is no waiting for shipping and it only costs a few dollars for the hose. If you don't have any fluid through your caliper yet just use this system, hook up your brake lines, keep your master cylinder full, and keep going. It took a long time and a lot of pumping to get the fluid down to the calipers on my CSR 1000 (has twin disc). Just keep going and it will eventually get there.

I haven't heard of that method since high school automotive class. Yes very effective. You can substitute the container for a glass baby food jar and then use just regular black line. You can see the air bubbles just the same with the glass jar.

idmtchris
06-21-2012, 11:27 PM
I used the old method for bleeding my brakes and it worked fine. Get some cheap gas line or hose (clear) that will attach to your bleeder and cut the top off an old pop bottle (or use a can, whatever you have). Attach the hose to your bleeder then put the other end of the hose in the bottle (do one caliper at a time if you have twin disc) and fill the bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose. Then, open the bleeder and pump the brakes. Keep pumping the brakes until you don't have any more bubbles coming out (reason for clear hose; so you can see), then close the bleeder. Having the end of the hose submerged in brake fluid will keep air from re-entering the system when you release the brake lever. The speed bleeders would be preferable but this way works just fine and there is no waiting for shipping and it only costs a few dollars for the hose. If you don't have any fluid through your caliper yet just use this system, hook up your brake lines, keep your master cylinder full, and keep going. It took a long time and a lot of pumping to get the fluid down to the calipers on my CSR 1000 (has twin disc). Just keep going and it will eventually get there.

Use a glass jar that you can clean really good first. You will be sucking fluid back into the caliper through the zerk so you do not want to contaminate the clean fluid.

cpg
06-22-2012, 06:09 PM
Good point. I forgot to specify that the container needs to be clean and filled with new brake fluid. Glass probably would be best but I have had fine luck using other containers as well as long as they are thoroughly cleaned first.