Cruise Control sometimes [Archive] - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums

Cruise Control sometimes

07-21-2014, 12:40 AM
I have a 2010 Kawi voyager 1700A. I have a problem with my cruise control disengaging and my gear indicator goes blank (will not indicate 6th gear) when the bike temperature gets over mid point, usually when the ambient air temp gets over 85 or so. :mad:

I can ride all day long with the cruise set when the bike engine temp, stays below half way indicated on the heat gauge. In short my cruise does not work when the 6th gear indicator light goes off. I shift down to 5th gear and my cruise will work no matter what the bikes engine temperature is. Weird stuff and No shop has a clue how to fix it.

My gear indicator will flick back and forth from 4th to 5th and 5th to 6th intermittent SO I'm a thinkin it is the gear shift indicator switch,, if there is such a thing. Anyone else have this problem? What say ye? :confused:

07-21-2014, 01:11 PM
MFolks should pop in here with his "cleaning your contacts" post. The intermittent nature of the problem makes it sound like you're on the right track.

07-21-2014, 02:21 PM
Here ya go:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit DN5 electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. CAIG Laboratories - Home of DeoxIT® & Hand-E-Glove® ( is their website, and can be purchased at most electronic supply stores.

On the older Kawasaki's, and other makes, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit DN5 and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal response and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. If you discover the soldered connections at the switches are crumbling, I’ve got a repair procedure for this, just ask.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit DN5 and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at Home - (

Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

DeoxIT® D-Series (

Trust MFolks , the guy's a true rocket scientist and really knows what he's talking about.

08-07-2014, 10:08 PM
Sounds like a faulty gear position indicator switch.
It is under external shift mechanism cover.
It is not the switch connector as the same leads are used for all gear positions, so it is an internal fault and will have to be replaced.

08-08-2014, 02:15 AM
Thanks for the information sfair. I will check this out. Kind of thought it might be in the gear position switch. Still stumped at why only does it when engine gets hot. Thanks again....

Sounds like a faulty gear position indicator switch.
It is under external shift mechanism cover.
It is not the switch connector as the same leads are used for all gear positions, so it is an internal fault and will have to be replaced.

08-08-2014, 10:50 AM
There are resistors inside that switch and when they get hot, the sixth gear resistor may open or go out of range.

08-08-2014, 04:12 PM
Ok thanks again. I have an appointment for the dealer to have a look. I will copy your answers and take them with me to the dealer.

There are resistors inside that switch and when they get hot, the sixth gear resistor may open or go out of range.