OLD POST!!!
But updates.....
check the oil level. Lot of times lately I'm seeing a ton of them with oil level above the "full" line. All it needs to be is in the checkered area. Over time with excessive idling, low speed running, and cool air, the oil level WILL rise, so you have to keep an eye on it. Also sometimes the rubber grommet on the dipstick will come loose, which gives you a false reading. If your rubber is loose, replace it. If oil level is above the full mark, change the oil (don't just drain a little, replace it). Make sure you replace the washer on the drain bolt. New filter also (and I suggest the kawasaki filter since it's guaranteed to fit and work properly).
Once past the oil issue....
grab a can of carb cleaner. Grab a hammer or something to "brick" the gas pedal. Make SURE it's in neutral, start the engine, floor/block it, and with the intake tube removed from the throttle body, spray the carb cleaner into the throttle body. The engine will start to flood out, stop spraying, then repeat as the engine catches back up. Repeat until you use the ENTIRE can of carb cleaner. The throttle body has a tendency to "gum up" (closed crankcase ventilation system is the root cause), which holds the sub throttle valve butterfly open a little (or restricts airflow depending on how gummed up it is), which throws the sub throttle sensor's reading "off" which then "confuses" the ECU, which then it tries to compensate via adding or removing fuel, which makes it run poorly.
Valve adjustment. If the valves are tight (clearance tighter than spec), it'll cause pulsating in the intake manifold which causes the intake pressure sensor to "think" that the engine is under a load, which then the ECU "richens" up the mixture--and yep you guessed it, runs like poo.
The system is simple and crude, and honestly doesn't take much to "confuse" it. It's a hybrid open loop MAP and alpha-N system, both are a little more sensitive to changes in airflow and manifold pressure than, say, a true feedback MAF system. It's a good system for a lawn mower, but not so great for the Mule application. The engine itself IS a lawn mower engine, and a great one, but when used on the Mule, it's original design doesn't take as well as it does to running 3500 RPM all day long at full load in a generator/mower application. On that note, it's wise to run the Mule in low gear only if you're only running 10mph or less. Takes the load off the belt drive system, the engine will warm up, it won't be as apt to carbon up the throttle body, muffler, etc, and it will not hurt a thing. It's just better for it.
OK, so i have a situation that i posted elsewhere, but I feel that you have apt knowledge about this motor AND it is very similar to the situations that i am currently having... so here is the explanation...
I just bought this 4010 Mule off Facebook, seller said he bought it off a farmer and drug it out of the shed, put a new battery in it, washed it, and posted it. Original statement was that it was not getting enough fuel pressure, It starts, runs ( but slow, as if it was starving for fuel) and goes into forward and reverse, I figured why not! lol..
STEP # 1 -I bought the service manual, read it, determined that if I dont have atleast 40PSI of pressure on the rail i will be running into issues.... so pump it was....
My DFI Indicator light will illuminate at the beginning of ignition turn on, then after 3 seconds it will turn off ( as expected) I have yet to have any light flash from that indicator light.
Fast forward 1 week, I got a fuel pump repair kit off ebay ( replacement pump and filter) to rebuild my pump, I cleaned off the top of the tank ( with a power washer, and i was very careful not to go crazy spraying by the electronics under the drivers side of the front seat), replaced the pump parts ( that was fairly easy) put it all back together, and go to start it, I have great pressure at the fuel rail now! awesome! the old filter was horrible!.... all my problems are solved... NOT
Mule turns over BUT will not idle... it starts, runs for 3-5 seconds, then turns off, almost like the ECM is forcing it to turn off?
If i spray choke cleaner into the air induction tube, it will run off that until the fuel source ( choke cleaner) runs out.. which tells me that I am either not getting fuel through my injectors OR my injectors are flooding out and stuck open?
I mess around with it, I made sure that my lines were clean from the pump to the rail, everything seems to be in check, in my head there should be no reason that it doesnt start and atleast idle... but run better than it was 30 minutes before this?!?!?
Had some family stuff so I had to put this off for a couple days....I redid the carb cleaner test to confirm my plugs/wires/ and crank sensor were all still functioning, I opened the throttle and sprayed choke cleaner in, now it wont even run off of that? it acts like it is backfiring?
SO, now I am very confused... I am going through pages... I still have not indicator light showing codes on the DFI, same solid for 3 seconds at start, and immediately off, so I skip pages 3-36 through 3-39 about the self diagnostics port/ reading codes... (maybe this will bite me in the ass later.... but if its not flashing the ECM doesnt see a problem? right?
I continued on trying to "find a broken wire" It has to be some connection somewhere, a plug, a pin, or broken wire, there is no way it just broke sitting there doing nothing.... I DROVE it into my garage....
Pages 3-40 through pages 3-54 go through testing, replacing, and tracing the wires back to the ECM on the Main TPS, Sub TPS and Sub throttle Valve Actuator, I step by step go through the inspections checklist, testing each wire,I have continuity at each wire back to the ECM for both TPS's. My main TPS passes ALL the tests, my sub TPS passes resitance, and has 4.9V on the incoming wire (blue/red) HOWEVER the ground wire (brown/black) is not receiving anything from the ECM? I double checked that wires continuity to the ecm main harness, and i have a solid connection ( no broken wire) I then went through the checklist of how to test for quality ground and power TO the ECM, that passed with flying colors, everything i am reading is telling me to replace the ECM becasue it is suppose to supply me with ground but is not providing it... I tested this theory by grounding the wire to my chassis, thinking that if my TPS sensor was not being grounded, it could not return an accurate value to the ECM, and if the ECM thinks that the TPS is not working, then it will not let my Mule start.... It was a good idea... but did not work.... I was really pulling at straws there....
I am sitting at the threshold of paying $700 for a new ECU, and before doing so, I am praying that you have some input... I plan on doing valves when i get home from work, and I am going to try to clean up the throttle body with choke cleaner, unless you have any other ideas i need to be heading twords? Is there a way to "RESET" the ECM? am i flooding my plugs with the "OLD ECM SETTINGS" ( before i replaced the pump) and now because i have great fuel pressure it is allowing too much fuel in? my plugs are wet when i pull them after trying to turn the engine over so i am 100% positive i am getting fuel through the injectors