yet another "my bike won't start" thread - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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yet another "my bike won't start" thread

Hey guys,

2006 Kawa 650R-6600 miles

I was about to hijack a thread but didn't want to. I searched for 'bike won't start" found a few things but different symptoms from mine.


YOUTUBE video showing what is happening with my bike (could not post the link not enough post count) but I do have a video. It basically primes the pump (buzzing sound) then when I hit the start switch it just 'clicks clicks clicks'




youtu.be/M268m5xo8fM that is the link of course with the https:// in front. I just know it helps to see and hear rather than just read a typed description.


I can jump start the bike using jumper cables but as soon as I turn it off it won't start again. I'm getting only 11.4 V with my meter across the battery , when I hit the start switch it drops to 11(this battery was brand new in Sep 2018 when I put it in) So now I know something isn't charging right.

My next plan is to check voltage/resistance on the stator -probably the resistance since I don't have a good known battery yet.. But why does it sound like a relay problem. Anyone ever been through this or maybe point me in the right section. I ordered a new battery and stator. But haven't ordered the rectifier yet. I am savvy with meters and such. So any advice would be very helpful.

Last edited by Mrpockets151; 03-18-2019 at 12:48 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 05:39 PM
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Your battery is dead. Replace that first.

2008 VN900B
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 05:41 PM
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Sounds like a dead cell in the battery.

The service manual actual has the troubleshooting procedure for the regulator and surprisingly easy to follow,.

I went through the same thing last year and I just needed a battery.

Good luck


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 12:28 PM
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Also bear in mind that any lead acid battery will self-discharge over time. Some will go flat in as little as 100 days. That's why a trickle charger is your battery's best friend.


The time it takes to go flat depends on a lot of factors like condition of battery, type of battery, temperature and of course any load on the battery (intentional or parasitic). If your bike has a computer or a clock etc, there will be a small but constant draw on the battery.


If you ride on regular basis you should not have to worry about a trickle charger.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 01:14 PM
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In the Kawasaki Versys forum there are very detailed explanations of stator testing and why they go bad. It will also recommend an OEM stator. Short test is to warm up the bike, unplug the stator connector and use a A/C voltage tester on all 3 of the leads. A to B, B to C, and C to A. Use your idle speed adjustment to raise the idle to about 3000 rpm. You can't hold the rpm stable enough with the grip throttle. This will have your stator at less than full output but above idle output. All three of the reading should be the same within 0.1 or 0.2 volts. This test is on the unregulated leads direct from the stator.

That said your description sounds like a bad battery. I have voltage monitors on my bikes to keep track of the condition of the battery and charging systems.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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So I ride everyday to work but it has been raining lately. Not to mention that my commute is only 6 miles one way. That's probably not enough to get the charging system to really kick in. At least to what I've been reading in some articles. I did order the battery tender jr and plan to hook it up maybe once a week.

My battery came in today. So I plan on testing the stator with the new battery. JPD I will check out that thread. I also found another thread somewhere I bookmarked on my phone. That might be the one.

I'll update my voltages. I have so many **** projects now though. My garage motor went out and I just mounted a new one but it's having some glitches. My daughter wrecked her car and i'm helping with that too. Thank goodness she's okay.

I've been dying not being able to ride.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Update : I'm getting 0.7 ohms on all pins(1-2 , 2-3, 1-3). I read that I want .2 or lower. But I've also read that 2 ohms or lower is ok. I can't upload pics for some reason

Also at 3000 RPM I'm getting around 37 volts across the 3 connection points , fluctuate a bit. That's a YouTube link showing. Disregard the shotty camera work. I had my son help me too. https://youtu.be/9qsNZZESpBI
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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I tried to edit but I guess it was expired

Update :: according to ElectroSport article which I found on Bing search , my charge system is fine.

2500 rpm voltage across battery is 13.58 V

5000 rpm voltage across battery is 14.04 V . According to the troubleshooting flow chart everything is fine.

Oh and I did attach the Tender adapter nicely tucked away for the future. I'll use it if I know my bike will be sitting longer than 4.5 days / especially with low hours on it
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 07:18 PM
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If it starts with a boost then it can really only be one thing. Your battery needs to be replaced. A bad battery can show good voltage but still not start the bike. I am guessing if you measured the battery voltage while cranking the starter, it would drop by several volts.
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