|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-31-2019 01:36 PM|
Hopefully the last FYI update on this one-
the battery seemed to be losing about 1/10th volt for around each 20 miles. I decided that maybe since I added a couple of relay setups AND since I switched to a modern reg/rec for "lithium" batteries (charges at a slightly lower rate), outside chance the system was just overloaded and
slowly drowning in power requirements. Thought maybe changing the running, signal, and taillight bulbs to LEDs and installing an electronic flasher
would maybe provide a chance of putting the charging system back in 'the black' column and keep it's nose above water, or at least be able to go more than 100 miles before the battery lost enough power to prevent it from starting the motor and leaving me stranded. One thing that I
found when changing the front running lights was that, even with the electronic flasher installed, pushing the sig switch didn't result in 2 flashing lights-
instead, both front running lights came on solid. I guess maybe it's safe to assume that "voltage leak"/short has been there for a while but maybe the LEDs were sensitive enough to pick it up whereas the incandescent 1157s aren't. I spent an hour looking for the problem but stopped short of
opening the left hand control then spent another hours neatening up the spaghetti mess of wires behind the headlamp and fixing a few glitches that
appeared to be insignificant to the problem, then reinstalled the 1157s and checked voltage at the battery, which was 13.24. I then stuck my spare battery and a couple of wrenches in the backpack and took at 45 mile ride and noticed the turn sigs blinked at a nice rate again instead of the slow,
lethargic rate before the switchover. Checking voltage across the battery after pulling back into the garage, I half expected to see about 13.04 volts since it didn't seem like anything I had done would have helped. But strangely, the meter read 13.44 volts. No clue exactly why but I'm not arguing.
|07-28-2019 07:16 AM|
Took it out last night for another ride. I guess it's fixed. It's nice to have a headlight that's brighter than an old candle again.
The new regulator gets really hot but maybe they all do.
|07-27-2019 07:31 PM|
yup JPD you are correct! when I was pulling the bike apart this morning, to replace the stator, I got a surprise. I had never noticed that the chrome sprocket cover I had picked up on ebay a few years ago, had a razor sharp burr under the top rear edge where the 3 wires exit and go to the
regulator. I had left too much extra length on the wire as I'm paranoid that I may one day have to clip the end for another type of connector, so
it was rubbing against the underside of the cover, exactly on the sharpened edge, which cut thru the sheath, insulation,, AND wire, cutting off the
AC power to the regulator. Luckily it was pretty easy to file the sharpened ridge from the edge and splice the wire. Learned my lesson and
shortened it a few inches. At long last- it's running good again.
thanks for writing & hope the rest of the weekend is good!!
|07-27-2019 03:56 PM|
|jpd||With a charged battery, unplug the 3 wires from your stator and check the A/C voltage between each of the wire sets. A-B, B-C, C-A. All the voltages should be the same +-0.1 v A/C. test at idle then use the idle speed control and raise the idle up to about 2500 RPM and test again. If the voltages are not the same the stater is bad. The voltage can be more than 30 v A/C unregulated.|
|07-26-2019 07:24 PM|
Update #2- I took the bike for another ride today and tossed an extra battery, a few wrenches, a voltmeter and little charger into my backpack. Sure enough-after 15 miles, it started coughing then died a mile or two later. I put in the spare battery and rode home with the headlight turned off. The bike hasa new stator which I checked after installing but now it isn't working and there is more or less no resistance between 2 of the legs. Wondering what would/could do it in so quickly. This was the 4th time I took the bike out since replacing the stator and a bunch or other stuff.
It started and ran fine for a short time but am now suspecting the stator has not been working since the first ride. Don't wanna toss another in there just to have it burn out right away.
|07-25-2019 06:19 PM|
Just an update on this. I decided to go ahead and complete what was headed toward a mini-electrical overhaul anyhow so here is how it stands now:
Has new :
(*) Modern regulator/rectifier from Rick's. It's mounted where the old rectifier was.
(*) Has a new EMGO stator which supposedly puts out more voltage than the original. And it WAS when I measured the voltage after
installing it last week.
(*) As part of the new reg/rec install, the 4 Plug "electrical panel" under the left side cover really is no longer needed so it was easy to remove.
(*) To get rid of old wiring that was chafing on the edges of the entrance hole where it went from the right handlebar control THRU the bar
into the headlamp area, a new switch with new wiring running on the outside of the bar was installed.
(*) The original 3-[glass]fuse box was replaced with a modern ATM panel
(*) Installed a relay setup to power the coils using the original wires as the relay switch.
(*) Installed a dual relay setup for the headlamp using the original bulb plug wires to switch the relays.
(*) Got rid of the "Aux Lighting" unit.
(*) New lithium battery. This was more or less a last desperate 'swing in the dark' . Sometimes batteries do weird things- but, unsurprisingly,
the battery was not the problem.
So I've taken it on 3 short rides since buttoning it back up yesterday.. The thing doesn't miss a beat. The headlamp is bright again but that's where the good news ends. At the end of a 10 or 15 minute ride, the battery shows a 10th or 2/10ths volts lower than before the ride began. A couple more short rides and it will need a recharge. Same as the end of last season before all this work was started. The voltage regulator gets pretty hot but not sure it isn't supposed to and there seem to be no relays, fuses, or wiring that are unreasonably warm. The one monster "clue" I've been seeing IS that when you test voltage at the battery, it seems normal and charging about 13.2 volts at idle with the headlight OFF.. As soon the headlight is switched on, voltage reading at the battery drops to 12.9 and slowly keeps falling by 10ths. When the light is shut off, the voltage
climbs. Pulling the bulb but leaving the switch ON has the same effect as shutting the switch off, eliminating the taillight and running lights as
suspects. Switching beams doesn't produce any changes so the issue must be somewhere in the high/low beam power feed circuit?
You'd think the fuse or headlamp wiring to/from the box would be warm but it is not. I am stumped.
|07-18-2019 10:31 AM|
Originally Posted by martin-csr View Post
Agree that is normal if the 'Reserve Lighting' box is connected and working correctly, although not sure about a 650 CSR
( speak of the devil, i had a '79 version of that ) but if you disconnect the box and want to retain the brake light "ON" indicator,
you'll need to include the green/white wire. If not, the STOP LAMP will work fine but the "ON" function of the indicator won't.
|07-18-2019 08:53 AM|
By bille6: .... So the red tach indicator still lights when the brake is used.
Assuming you mean the Stop Lamp. I believe that's normal >> my 1981 KZ650-CSR has that feature. The Stop Lamp lets you know the brake light is working. On my bike if the Stop Lamp flashes without applying the brakes, that means there's a problem with the brake light circuit, which could be as simple as a burned out brake light bulb.
|07-16-2019 05:41 PM|
Originally Posted by bille6 View Post
Haven't taken it for a ride yet but managed to get rid of those 4 connectors and put in (1) 3p weather pack for the new reg/rec connection and (1) 2p for the OP and Neutral indicators. Also removed the reserve lighting unit. I jumped the following connections in the harness connector: To get the headlight working, Blue-to-Blue/Yellow; tail light Red to Red-White;
Brake Light- On the harness 3P connector from the RLU, combined the Green/White and Blue and jumped this to
what appears to be blue-black . So the red tach indicator still lights when the brake is used. The rest of the pins are
empty. Just about any or ALL of the above stuff might be wrong or incomplete but so far they worked for me when testing.
|07-15-2019 09:03 AM|
Originally Posted by martin-csr View Post
Thanks for replying. Looks like the brown connector is used for a hodge-podge of stuff and gathers output from the stator (blue connector), regulator (green connector) and rectifier (white connector) to finally route it back into the harness. The blue connector
also has input wires from the OP and neutral switches. I'm just about done except for neatening things up but haven't yet
made final connections or hit the button. Made a semi crude mounting plate for the new regulator, mounting it more or less
in place of the old rectifier. Will post back after trying it.
thanks again & hope the week goes well!
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|