I just picked up an 85 zl 900 eliminator for $500. It's in pretty nice shape and runs really strong. I plan on doing an oil change but have never done one with a bike that has this kind of oil filter. Is there anything that I need to keep in mind when changing the oil? It seems like all I have to do is take the cover off and pull out the old filter and replace it with the new one, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask since this is definitely the oldest bike I've ever owned.
Also, to anyone who has or has ever owned a bike like this, are there certain problems that these bikes are prone to? It's always good to know so I can keep an eye out for certain symptoms. Thanks in advance for all your help!
changed the oil last night and it was so much easier than I had anticipated. the fact that the oil filter housing screwed in with a bolt right next to the drain plug was very nice.
changed the oil last night and it was so much easier than I had anticipated. the fact that the oil filter housing screwed in with a bolt right next to the drain plug was very nice.
Nice bike.A friend had one for a few years and other than a short fuel range loved it.
D&D still makes a pipe for it.
Spend $15 and get a proper manual.
Anti-seize on the sparkplugs everytime.
Coolant every 2nd season.
Battery tender is a good idea, check for fluid 3 times a season.
Thanks. I am definitely getting a manual for it. I'm going to check the coolant today. I have a tender, but the battery seems strong, so I haven't had to use it yet. I plan on changing the plugs soon as well. I'm going to look into the d+d pipes too.
Wow, $500 for an 85 ZL900 that is in "pretty good shape", you should buy a lottery ticket too. That is a steal of a deal. For that money, all you usually get is a parts bike that rides home in your pick up truck. I have owned one for 2-3 years and I can tell you that they are a blast to ride. Like Eric said, due to the small gas tank, they are not touring bikes, but, I just put a tail bag on mine that I can keep a 2 gallon gas can in, so, there are work arounds. Some put on larger tanks if you want to do that, but it changes the look a bit. Anyway, keep an eye on the water pump and the fuel valve, and hold on tight.
Excellent point, the first time that I changed my oil, I missed the second plug and left a little bit of the old oil in there. The world didn't end though.
Run your motoor for a while to get the oil warm - you can also check that the rad fan cuts in - at 110 deg C with motor running and if you turn the motor off - at 97 deg C.
Remove BOTH oil drain plugs - be careful as several guys end up stripping them!
Remove filter and catch old oil.
Rotella Oil is a preferred choice by many - but that could start an argument.
Water pump is a weak spot - check for oil leak - usually a sign that the seal has gone. (Not a few drops - as there is a WEEP hole there - and a few drops is normal).
Listen for a clattering noise on start up from the clutch side (right hand side as you sit on the bike) - the starter chain tensioner rod is a weak spot and can fail - with dramatic results! If you are worried - pull the clutch cover and check the pressure plate for signs of damage - the tensioner can "dimple" the pressure plate edge. There is a mod to fix this!
The fuel tap on this and several other Kawasakis otf that time are rubbish! The seals warp - the rubber diaphragm rots - the O ring rots and the tap allows fuel to flow - when it should not1 If you get a stuck float valve with the tap leaking - then that is BAD! You are liable to a HYDRAULIC lock situation, or fuel in your oil - both are bad news.
Apart from these issues and the draded no3 journal bearing oil issue - you are good to go!
MOST bikes do NOT suffer from these problems - but SOME do!
If your bike is running well with no issues - then it probably will continus to do so! Hope I haven't put you off - but you asked!
I love my ZL1000 and have fitted a pingel manual fuel tap and new float valves after a good carb clean out. No issues now - fingers crossed.
Like the Vinnster said, the stock fuel valve is perhaps not the pinnacle of Kawi engineering, I switched to an old school manual on/off one soon after getting my ZL with good results. Pingel makes some oversize ones if you are going to mod the carbs and air filter and pipes for maximum speed (and maximum gas usage), otherwise there are lots of generic ones available at 1/3 the price.
Hope you haven't killed yourself or something. Hello, anybody home?
So what does he do to check oil level in between oil changes if he cannot use the sight glass?
To me it is not worth a blown engine when a new sight glass is only $20.
My mistake. The oil gauge sight glass is also on the front bevel gear case, along w the oil filler cap. doh.
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