83 GPZ 1100 runs rough below 4k rpm - Page 2 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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not by me
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:09 AM
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not by me

That is something that should be done as well as posting the photos of the plugs.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 01:07 PM
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Ignitor resistance tests are next to useless unless you have a catastrophic failure.
Do whatever you have to do to keep it idling for a few minutes, remove plugs and post a picture of all 4.
A couple friends and I used to wrench some atv's and would run into issues at times.
Now going by the book I never could get resistance readings in line with their numbers for coils and such. According to our manuals the coils were junk and should be tossed. More than once I started to toss an ignition coil based on those numbers but instead checked out other things first and always found the problem which was never the coil.

Maybe those numbers are correct for a new item but I don't think they are reliable for used items. Not in my experience anyway.

1986 LTD 454
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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i used an oscilloscope to look at my ignition signals and found the pickup signal to be nice and clean. not so much when i look at the igniter to coils. i suspect the igniter. i have cleaned all the connectors twice (all excecpt the back of the fuse box) and can't get rid of the blubbering idle and jumpy tach. the igniter feeds the fi control unit and prob determines when the injectors fire and i would guess a noisy signal would make it run rich, which is what is happening. anybody have a thought about this?
another question: how long should fuel pressure hold in the system after shutdown? mine drops gradually so that overnight it is less than 5psi.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 09:53 PM
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If you are using an electronics scope, the display might not be of much value. Way to much noise on the coils.
A DSO or an automotive diagnostic scope might work better.


You might try an inductive type timing light. It should be able to detect a cylinder mis-fire or timing wander by missing strobes. You can verify with plug readings.


Your fuel pressure drop looks good to me.

Last edited by sfair; 08-27-2018 at 09:56 PM.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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i used my antique (1963) marquette direct connect timing lite using #4 plug and saw a random jumping of the strobe indicating a misfire that jumped about 120 degrees. i'm not sure what it means. i'll try using it on another machine to see if it's the lite.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 11:02 AM
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I would like to see you use a more modern type with inductive clamp.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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just double checked the timing lite and it is fine. clean and in time til 2k then jumping all over (matches the jumping tach)
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 03:06 PM
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1. Are you saying it idles fine?
2. All four HT wires show the same?
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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it starts easy and will idle and will run clean til about 2k rpm to 4k when it starts missing and the tach jumps from about 2k to 4 or 5 while the throttle is held steady. runs strong if you run it hard. but i am going thru spark plugs due to it being rich. all the plugs soot up evenly.
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