Please help!!! 84 kz 550 ltd f2 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Please help!!! 84 kz 550 ltd f2

Hey guys this is my 84, kz 550 ltd f2. 17k miles. Long story short my grand father gave me the bike before he passed early last year. We got it started a few times but not for long nor did it sound to great. Carbs where leaking in the airbox.I figured I would rebuild the carbs, petcock, new battery, air filter, airbox boots, spark plugs, put fresh hoses in and what not. Since it hadnt been ran since 99. I did the pilot screws, float valves, all rubbers I had to split the rack. It sounds much better then ever before but still not right. Starts quick but idles rough with choke (has to be warmed with choke out then it cuts off when the chokes put back in warm then I can start it without choke). I've done fresh oil and filter. I did notice the right side seemed to have more exhaust power then the left but not by much before carb work. I also wasnt able to close the choke untill I did the pilot screws (I waited due to the fact they had welch plugs) now that they are done it still has a hard time with choke also cylinder 3 and 4
Have carbon fouling on the plugs
Oil pressure light is coming on occasionally. (Is filled with 3L (Only had it running for maybe 15 minutes in total)

Compression came back higher then specs
C1-169.5
C2- 169
C3-180
C4- 173

Also carbo stock pilot settings they don't seem right to me,

Carb1 3.5
Carb2 1.25
Carb3 3.75
Carb4. 3.25

Please help!
Thanks in advance
Chris
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 07:02 AM
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A good starting point would be to have your carbs vacuum balanced. Oil pressure light is worrisome. Test the switch and wiring to make sure that is not the issue. If you don't have a workshop manual, you may want to search online and get one.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 08:32 AM
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First please read my answer to the post titled Idle Mixture Screws, that will explain how to set the low speed mixture screws. As far as your continuing problems, did you remove and clean the pilot jets? These are often overlooked because they are recesses in a well next to the main jet. These are by far the most common cause of poor low speed running after storage. Be sure both the longitudinal and transverse holes in the jet are clear. Also remember when using compressed air on a carb you must always blow opposite direction of normal operational flow. You can quickly determine which cylinder or cylinders are the culprit by checking header temp immediately after start up. monitor for maybe 15 or 20 seconds and the cold pipe will be the weak cylinder. Infrared thermometers would work for this. Not enough info on the oil pressure issue but I strongly suspect you are seeing the light when the engine falters at idle. This causes a lower than normal rpm with a corresponding drop in oil pressure. If this is your scenario it should not be a problem when carb issue is corrected.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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So I did read your post about idle mixture screws and I did remove all the pilot jets. And cleaned them. I soaked all the jet with carb cleaner. I have a clymer's trouble shooting /repair manual but it covers a wide range of kz modles. I do need to buy the service manual. I did blow out any passages I could with air. I'm going to try adjusting how you suggested. What exactly are you suggesting with the weak cylinder? Also any reason you can think of for carbon fouling ? On only c-3 c-4?
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Also the header test showed cylinder 1 was 79 c2 was 110 c3 was 200 c4 was 220
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 01:28 PM
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Not to beat a dead horse here but did you hold each pilot jet up to a light to be sure all the passages were open? Did you go in thru the engine side of the carb and blow backwards thru the VERY small holes where the pilot circuit fuel enters the venture? Carb passages start large at the intake side and diminish in diameter as they travel toward the engine side, so it is important to always blow in reverse flow so as not to lodge foreign material in the passage. If you had a problem with cylinders 1 and four or 2and 3 I would suspect ignition as that is how the coils are paired. If three and four are giving you problems I would still look to carb issues. Resistor plug caps can be an issue but again to have both 3 and 4 failing at the same time is unlikely. How did you set the float level? Are you running this on the side stand or center stand? When you start the engine if any cylinder is weak or not running that header pipe will get hot much slower than the others. The cold pipe or pipes will direct you to the problem cylinder. Are the plugs on 3 and four fuel wet on shut down or dry? The fastest way to determine if a dead cylinder is due to ignition is to pull plug on that cylinder, use a small pump oil can with fuel in it and put a SMALL amount of fuel directly into the cylinder. Reinstall plug and crank the engine, if the ignition system is good that cylinder will fire right up and run several revolutions. WARNING start small with the amount of fuel you add or you will hydro lock the cylinder and likely bend a rod. Obviously this test is for a fuel starvation problem not for a carb flooding issue. Have you tried swapping the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3 with those from 1 and 2. I have seen many cases where a fouled plug can you have access to a plug sand blaster.not be cleaned and saved. Once the carbon track forms on the inner porcelain the plug is dead unless you have access to a plug sand blaster. Please describe what you are calling carbon fouling. Are there chunks of carbon on the plug? Is the plug whiskered?
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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So as far as the carbs go I'll rip them back down and re blow all passages just to be 100% sure. I kept the float levels the same did the test with the clear tune for float level. By carbon fouling I mean like a black sooty dry not wet. It is up on the center stand. I'm going to try applying some carb cleaner into the carb vacume line with the dead cylinder (with motor on) and see if it changes. (Per my buddys recomendation) I did see a change in idle it was idling at 3k (choke outward) and when sprayed it hit 3.5k for a few seconds then went back. So I think your right about that cylinder dose this mean that the pilot jet os still plugged?
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 05:12 PM
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without being there it sure sounds like fuel starvation to that cylinder. If you have verified fuel in the float bowl then the most likely cause is a plugged pilot jet followed by a plugged internal passage. If the pilot jet is plugged clean it and reassemble. If the pilot jet is clear you can check the passages by carefully spraying a liquid such as carb cleaner in the pilot circuit and watching where it exits. The only problem with this method is you need to know the layout of the passage. Generally you can decipher this by looking at the carb body casting. you may also be able to find a cutaway diagram with a web search.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 05:14 PM
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Is this the cylinder with the vac. line to the petcock? If so and if you are using an auxiliary fuel tank be sure to plug that line.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using the oem tank with a longer piece of vacuum hose. For testing. Also after running the test I did notice a couple drops coming out of the bottom of the bowl On carb1 witch is paired to what we believe to be the dead cylinder. Could this be bc the pilot jet isnt sucking gas up? Also on the note of believing that cylinder is dead due to fuel starvation would that be why it sounds real rough on the side with that cylinder? So I think I'm going to try cleaning the carb #1 tonight and checking all passage ways and check for exit of the fluid. I haven't found a cut away for the tk26v. On a good note I've been pretty fast to get them out in 20 minutes tops. On another note idling at 3k with the choke out isnt normal correct? The engine is trying to compensate for the lost cylinder?

Last edited by chris1996mcguire; 03-30-2019 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Fixing
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