'78 Z1R charging system question - Page 2 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 03:56 PM
jpd
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With a charged battery, unplug the 3 wires from your stator and check the A/C voltage between each of the wire sets. A-B, B-C, C-A. All the voltages should be the same +-0.1 v A/C. test at idle then use the idle speed control and raise the idle up to about 2500 RPM and test again. If the voltages are not the same the stater is bad. The voltage can be more than 30 v A/C unregulated.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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yup JPD you are correct! when I was pulling the bike apart this morning, to replace the stator, I got a surprise. I had never noticed that the chrome sprocket cover I had picked up on ebay a few years ago, had a razor sharp burr under the top rear edge where the 3 wires exit and go to the
regulator. I had left too much extra length on the wire as I'm paranoid that I may one day have to clip the end for another type of connector, so
it was rubbing against the underside of the cover, exactly on the sharpened edge, which cut thru the sheath, insulation,, AND wire, cutting off the

AC power to the regulator. Luckily it was pretty easy to file the sharpened ridge from the edge and splice the wire. Learned my lesson and

shortened it a few inches. At long last- it's running good again.


thanks for writing & hope the rest of the weekend is good!!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Took it out last night for another ride. I guess it's fixed. It's nice to have a headlight that's brighter than an old candle again.

The new regulator gets really hot but maybe they all do.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Hopefully the last FYI update on this one-



the battery seemed to be losing about 1/10th volt for around each 20 miles. I decided that maybe since I added a couple of relay setups AND since I switched to a modern reg/rec for "lithium" batteries (charges at a slightly lower rate), outside chance the system was just overloaded and
slowly drowning in power requirements. Thought maybe changing the running, signal, and taillight bulbs to LEDs and installing an electronic flasher

would maybe provide a chance of putting the charging system back in 'the black' column and keep it's nose above water, or at least be able to go more than 100 miles before the battery lost enough power to prevent it from starting the motor and leaving me stranded. One thing that I

found when changing the front running lights was that, even with the electronic flasher installed, pushing the sig switch didn't result in 2 flashing lights-
instead, both front running lights came on solid. I guess maybe it's safe to assume that "voltage leak"/short has been there for a while but maybe the LEDs were sensitive enough to pick it up whereas the incandescent 1157s aren't. I spent an hour looking for the problem but stopped short of

opening the left hand control then spent another hours neatening up the spaghetti mess of wires behind the headlamp and fixing a few glitches that

appeared to be insignificant to the problem, then reinstalled the 1157s and checked voltage at the battery, which was 13.24. I then stuck my spare battery and a couple of wrenches in the backpack and took at 45 mile ride and noticed the turn sigs blinked at a nice rate again instead of the slow,

lethargic rate before the switchover. Checking voltage across the battery after pulling back into the garage, I half expected to see about 13.04 volts since it didn't seem like anything I had done would have helped. But strangely, the meter read 13.44 volts. No clue exactly why but I'm not arguing.
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