[sledman]

'03 Vulcan 500 LTD, idle mixture screw on carb......

Can seem to find it.....Is it behind one of those darn plugs?

The carb is a Keihun CVK.

 

[1Adam12]

On the bottom of the carb and its behind one of those plastic plugs. You can drill a hole VERY carefully and then use a screw to pull it out - some just let go with the drill bit. If you go to far - you will mess up your pilot screw.

 

[sledman]

Hmmmm. Were you refering to the VERY bottom, or on the left side, near the bottom. On our dirt bikes and sleds, they have always been on the side, near the bottom. On my Intruder, they are on the side also, but near the top.
The only plug on the side is near the top, and to the front (cyl side) of the carb..........

 

[1Adam12]

side near bottom....not very bottom.

Sorry was not clear.

 

[sledman]

Hmmmm.........nothing there on these carbs.

 

[CCWKen]

Not sure about the '03's but if it has one (adjustable), it will be next to the vaccum port. The plug may be aluminum or plastic. Before changing the setting, mark the current angle and screw it in until it bottoms while counting the turns. (Including partial turns--1/4, 1/3, 1/2, ect.) If you have to go back to the original setting, this is the only way.

 

[sledman]

Thanks. I'm very familiar with jetting and carb principles. I've custom jetted both our dirt bikes, and some past sleds. The new sleds don't seem to need it, unless you start piping them.
I'm just not familiar with this model carb, and the only plug it has is on the side, near the top, near the outlet. I really don't want to drill into a cap just to find out that I have to replug it because I drilled out the wrong thing!

 

[CCWKen]

On the CVK 34's the plug is right next to the vaccum port. The vaccum port is near the engine side (carb outlet). To get my aluminum plug out, all I did was tap a #4 wood screw into it, give it turn and pull. Mine was about 2mm thick and the screw didn't even go through. (Left a dimple on the other side.) I reused the plugs by giving them a tap on the dimple with a pin punch to flaten a little. Set with thread lock or super glue.

Forgot to mention:
The plug is about 7mm in diameter and flat. It does not look like a ball or BB plug.

 

[1Adam12]

http://www.pro-flo.com/images/pwm.gif

#6 is the plug and once you pull that out, the pilot screw is there for you.

 

[sledman]

http://www.pro-flo.com/images/pwm.gif

#6 is the plug and once you pull that out, the pilot screw is there for you.

No, #6 is the plug that is removable to acces the main jet, we are talking about a plug that covers the idle mixture screw (fuel screw in this case, I believe) to keep us from tampering with it.
#17 is the air adjust screw (idle mixture screw), but this is a different carb than we are talking about.

But thanks for the response anyway.

 

[sledman]

On the CVK 34's the plug is right next to the vaccum port. The vaccum port is near the engine side (carb outlet). To get my aluminum plug out, all I did was tap a #4 wood screw into it, give it turn and pull. Mine was about 2mm thick and the screw didn't even go through. (Left a dimple on the other side.) I reused the plugs by giving them a tap on the dimple with a pin punch to flaten a little. Set with thread lock or super glue.

Forgot to mention:
The plug is about 7mm in diameter and flat. It does not look like a ball or BB plug.

Thanks, I know where you are talking about. I thought that probably was it, but wanted confirmation before I starting pulling plugs......

Her bike has some popping on deceleration, just from the left pipe. I thought I would try to adjust some of that out. It seems pretty rich on the pilot, as no choke is needed to start the bike when dead cold. Hit the start switch, and it fires right up and idles good.

Any other tech tips on the '03 Vulcan 500 LTD would be greatly appreciated!

 

[CCWKen]

The adjustment screw under the seal is for low speed adjustment. If you have to lean the carbs below about 2 turns out, you have an enrichment problem.

Make sure the enrichment (choke) linkage is allowing the plungers to seat fully. Check for dirty gas (float bowl drain) and the float level. Tiny specks of dirt will not allow the float needle to seat. This causes a rich mixture also. With the bowl too full, the deceleration valve will suck fuel causing a pop. With a non-closing float valve, you'll get cylinder wash down and a crankcase full of gas.

 

[sledman]

The adjustment screw under the seal is for low speed adjustment. If you have to lean the carbs below about 2 turns out, you have an enrichment problem.
. With a non-closing float valve, you'll get cylinder wash down and a crankcase full of gas.

Also causes fuel to spill out the over flow tube...............