Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello I got an 07 bayou 250 about 3 months ago and recently the button start stopped working and I’ve so far replaced the solenoid, starter relay, and cdi and a new battery still nothing in the button start and I can only start it by jumping it with a flat head screw driver and can someone get back to me whenever they can help
 

· Registered
05 mule 3010
Joined
·
50 Posts
Service manual with wiring diagram? Always the best place to start (pardon the pun), if you don't know electrics troubleshooting. Next stop is a volt-ohm meter (really cheap at Harbor Freight). Get those in hand, and we can probably help.

CDI & battery aren't exactly prime suspects if it will run by jumping the shorting solenoid terminals. ;-)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Service manual with wiring diagram? Always the best place to start (pardon the pun), if you don't know electrics troubleshooting. Next stop is a volt-ohm meter (really cheap at Harbor Freight). Get those in hand, and we can probably help.

CDI & battery aren't exactly prime suspects if it will run by jumping the shorting solenoid terminals. ;-)
but my other biggest suspicion is the neutral/reverse safety switch and I have no idea where that’s located and I don’t know where to put the ohm meter
 

· Registered
05 mule 3010
Joined
·
50 Posts
Service manual search
Virtually everything you're posted says, Get The Service Manual.
You can almost certainly download one for free.
Post or link the wiring diagram here, and we can tell you where to start with the meter (and what mode to put the meter in; measuring voltage with the ohms setting, or ohms in the voltage setting, is counter-productive).
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Service manual search
Virtually everything you're posted says, Get The Service Manual.
You can almost certainly download one for free.
Post or link the wiring diagram here, and we can tell you where to start with the meter (and what mode to put the meter in; measuring voltage with the ohms setting, or ohms in the voltage setting, is counter-productive).
I do also have a digital version of the diagram
 

· Registered
05 mule 3010
Joined
·
50 Posts
The B/Y wires are ground wires, and should all be connected to each other. Note all the places you see a B/Y wire; they should all be tied to the ground (-) terminal on the battery.

Note that the starter button has a B/Y wire; that is ground, so the start button grounds a signal to actuate the "starter circuit relay" (upper left of the drawing). With the ignition switch on, you should see ~12V on the B wire at the starter button, before you push the button. When you hold the button down, that voltage should go to zero.

The B wire on the "starter relay" (lower right, with the 20A fuse drawn in the box) supplies 12V DC to the CDI & starter circuit relay (upper left). It should have 12V DC on it ending at the B terminal on both devices.
The W wire on the starter relay (lower right) seems to be the line powering the rest of the bike. Again, 12V DC, and according to the drawing, should be 'always hot' as long as the 20A fuse is good.

OK, Voltage measurements 1st. Black lead of the meter to the battery negative post. DC Voltage setting, at a range greater than 12 V on the meter.

Turn on the ignition switch, and check for 12V DC on the B terminal of the start button. If you see 12V, push the button and the meter should go to zero. If it doesn't, the B/Y leaving the start button isn't continuous to ground.

If you don't see 12V on the B terminal of the start button, then note that the wire goes to the start circuit relay. There are two B wires on that relay. Check to see if you have 12 V on either one. If neither has 12 V, then you have a voltage supply problem to that relay. If you do see 12V on one of the terminals, then you likely have either a bad relay or as you suspect, a bad neutral/reverse switch (or it isn't adjusted properly).

The neutral/reverse switch has two wires. The LT/G wire goes to the start circuit relay. You should see 12V DC on that wire when the bike is not in neutral, and zero volts when the bike is in neutral. If I'm reading the drawing correctly, when the bike is in neutral, the neutral light should light up, and the start circuit relay should close ( you should hear it click as the bike goes into neutral). The neutral/reverse switch is providing the ground to the light and the start circuit relay when the bike is in neutral.

All measurements above are using the DC volts range of the meter; NOT the ohms range.

Quick & dirty test: Make sure the bike is actually in neutral. Make up a jumper wire that can reach from the LT/G terminal on the start circuit relay to the battery negative terminal. Get help if necessary, and jump from the LT/G terminal to ground, and try the start button. If the bike starts, then either the LT/G wire is bad, or the neutral switch is bad or out of adjustment.

All I have time for now; report back on what you find.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The B/Y wires are ground wires, and should all be connected to each other. Note all the places you see a B/Y wire; they should all be tied to the ground (-) terminal on the battery.

Note that the starter button has a B/Y wire; that is ground, so the start button grounds a signal to actuate the "starter circuit relay" (upper left of the drawing). With the ignition switch on, you should see ~12V on the B wire at the starter button, before you push the button. When you hold the button down, that voltage should go to zero.

The B wire on the "starter relay" (lower right, with the 20A fuse drawn in the box) supplies 12V DC to the CDI & starter circuit relay (upper left). It should have 12V DC on it ending at the B terminal on both devices.
The W wire on the starter relay (lower right) seems to be the line powering the rest of the bike. Again, 12V DC, and according to the drawing, should be 'always hot' as long as the 20A fuse is good.

OK, Voltage measurements 1st. Black lead of the meter to the battery negative post. DC Voltage setting, at a range greater than 12 V on the meter.

Turn on the ignition switch, and check for 12V DC on the B terminal of the start button. If you see 12V, push the button and the meter should go to zero. If it doesn't, the B/Y leaving the start button isn't continuous to ground.

If you don't see 12V on the B terminal of the start button, then note that the wire goes to the start circuit relay. There are two B wires on that relay. Check to see if you have 12 V on either one. If neither has 12 V, then you have a voltage supply problem to that relay. If you do see 12V on one of the terminals, then you likely have either a bad relay or as you suspect, a bad neutral/reverse switch (or it isn't adjusted properly).

The neutral/reverse switch has two wires. The LT/G wire goes to the start circuit relay. You should see 12V DC on that wire when the bike is not in neutral, and zero volts when the bike is in neutral. If I'm reading the drawing correctly, when the bike is in neutral, the neutral light should light up, and the start circuit relay should close ( you should hear it click as the bike goes into neutral). The neutral/reverse switch is providing the ground to the light and the start circuit relay when the bike is in neutral.

All measurements above are using the DC volts range of the meter; NOT the ohms range.

Quick & dirty test: Make sure the bike is actually in neutral. Make up a jumper wire that can reach from the LT/G terminal on the start circuit relay to the battery negative terminal. Get help if necessary, and jump from the LT/G terminal to ground, and try the start button. If the bike starts, then either the LT/G wire is bad, or the neutral switch is bad or out of adjustment.

All I have time for now; report back on what you find.
alright I have to wait for my friend to get back with the ohm meter and then I’ll start testing
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You are getting some excellence advice from someone with the patience of the Lord. I am an electronic technician and wouldn't be able to give you such a good diagnostic tutorial. :)
we’ll I’m not the best at understanding stuff when I have no idea where the neutral/reverse safety switch is on a 07 bayou 250 but I’m still waiting for a freind to get back with my ohm meter
 

· Registered
05 mule 3010
Joined
·
50 Posts
Can you find the "starter circuit relay" (upper left in the drawing)? If you can, you can test for whether the neutral switch is an issue without actually finding the neutral switch. That's what I was trying to convey earlier, in post #12.

Have you searched online for the correct manual?
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
5,178 Posts
Also as an FYI, I have verified on Partzilla that the neutral switch location did not change from 2003 to 2007.

The switch is there but requires a lot of disassembly to get to it. But as rv7charlie points out, you just need access to the wires for now.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top