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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1980 750 LTD. Barn find that is for the most part ready to hit the road (a few odds and ends to take care of).

Yesterday while it was on the center stand I gave the rear wheel a spin by hand and it didn't spin as freely as my 550 ltd. It spun, but when I spun it hard and let go, it wouldn't even barely do 1/2 revolution.

Now, I had this on the road for quick test rides, never had any issues, I know the brake (disc) isn't hanging up, but I am not sure if maybe the bearings aren't dry/shot. The chain isn't too tight either.

my question:
1. If the bearing is shot/dying, how will I know? Will it howl like a car? Maybe create some heat I could feel by hand? I could take off the rear wheel, but I wasn't planning on it, and its kind of a PITA because you either have to move the pipes outta the way or take the whole tensioner mechanics off back and pull it out that way.

2. Is it possible to overtighten the rear axel so that it would pinch the rear wheel, causing it to turn a little harder?


BTW, if you can't notice by the title, I blow at spelling.
 

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1982 KZ750 E3
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Disconnect as much as possible from the rear wheel and back brakes of all the way and then spin it and listen and type of "roar" or "crunching" when the wheel spins. You also will want to check for play LEFT/RIGHT to check for slop in the bearing as well. Thats the only thing I could suggest to you for you other than taking it off completly to check it. Others may have a better solution...just my 2 cents.
 

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Agree with Genisis but don't think 10 minutes dropping the wheel out is too much to ask, easy to drop the stop-blocks off after unhooking the chain :wink:

Try loosening the wheel-spindle first (with a spanner if the pipes are in the way) to see if it is being 'pinched', only really likely if a spacer is missing though unless the Incredible Hulk tightened it :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did have the wheel off a while back, and I don't remember getting really mad and turning green (well, I don't remember turning green at least :)). Maybe I'll just take the **** thing off again... I have a slow leak in the rear tire anyway (hope its just the bead leaking)...maybe this is a good time to check that out too.
 

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GHOSTRIDER
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I did have the wheel off a while back, and I don't remember getting really mad and turning green (well, I don't remember turning green at least :)). Maybe I'll just take the **** thing off again... I have a slow leak in the rear tire anyway (hope its just the bead leaking)...maybe this is a good time to check that out too.
Do as suggested above checking the the wheel as you loosen the axle nut to see if it frees up as torque is relieved. Then inspect the bearings for damage or misalignment between the inner and outer surfaces. Sometimes paint and debris can get behind the race and keep it from fully seating against the bearing shoulder causing the spacer to push the bearing center out of line with the outer cage and race thus binding the bearing. Sealed bearings are not beyond being bad right out of the box either. Good luck and do keep us updated!:wink:
 

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Wheel bearings are easy to install, the tough part might be in removing the old ones. A propane torch used carefully will heat up the hub(don't catch the bearing grease on fire!) so the old bearing can come out.A bearing puller or a long drift punch and hammer should be able to pop the old bearings out of the hubs.

When getting ready to place the new bearings, first put them in a freezer overnight, this will shrink the races just enough to almost drop in place.

Heat up the hub again, and put the cold bearings in them. a dead blow hammer or a block of wood and hammer will help if the parts bind up.Make sure the bearings are straight and seated in the hubs.

When the parts equalize in temperature, the bearings will be locked in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks fellas.

Over the next couple weeks I'll be able to start working on this bike again.
Once I finally sell my z1000 (this friday) and get my 550 road worthy I can start to get this 750 ready to roll.
 

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The manual for my ZN700 shaft drive says clean and repack the wheel bearings every two years!
I haven't tackled this job yet on my bike. It has 1300 miles on it. It had 1058 miles when I bought it a year ago.
 
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