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Hello everyone. This is my first post on these forums so I will try to give as much information as I can and hope no one hates me for going on and on.

Last summer I bought a non-running 1980 KZ440LTD. The guy I bought it from said it needed a new ignition coil and then would run. In the end it needed a new battery, coil, and points. From there it did start running but for some reason the RH exhaust wasn't as forceful and never heated up. By the time all these other things were finally fixed the snow started flyign the next day so the bike went into storage for the winter.

Assuming most of the winter that the carb was gummed up (the guy I bought it from told me it had been sitting for about a year when I bought it from him) Sprayed some carb cleaner right into the right hand carb today and the bike fired right up (had some trouble starting last year) and both exhaust pipes seemed to be putting out the same amount of force as far as air is concerned. Still the right hand exhaust was not heating up.

When I walked around to the front of the bike I noticed an oil spot forming under the bike, so I immediately turned the bike off and started looking for the source. I did find it and the leak is coming from the most unusual spot I have ever seen.

Where the exhaust pipe bolts onto the motor there are two studs holding it on. Somewhere along the line someone snapped off one of the studs so the pipe is lose there and this is the origin of the oil.

So finally here is my question, what would cause oil to be exiting the motor via the exhaust pipe?

For additional information I removed both exhaust pipes, and looked in at the exhaust valves. The left side was completely clean and dry, other than carbon build up, while you could visibly see oil on the exhaust valve. Also did a compression test on both cylinders. The left hand with no leak tested at 120lbs while the right hand side with the leak tested at 140lbs.

If anyone could give me some information on what is causing this oil leak it would be greatly appreciated. On a second note, if anyone could give me information as far as the way the exhaust stud goes into the motor that would also be helpful as if possible I will replace that when I put the pipes back on.

Thank you to anyone who can help!
 

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Hello Eric, i think your leak is most probably caused by worn valve-stem seals or possibly just the one on that exhaust port.

The leak into that pot would explain the higher compression reading too maybe.

Was the engine warm and did you hold the throttle wide-open when testing 'cos the readings are just about acceptable?

You'll need the head off sadly to change the valve-stem seals but this will help in removing the knackered exhaust-stud..

If the exhaust-stud is still showing a stub then easier but you might have to drill the remains and use an extractor (Easy-out). Heat the area around the stud and use penetrating-oil before trying to remove it. Buy a new stud and use Loctite or similar to fix it in the head by utilising 2 nuts, one to lock the other.

Best of luck m8.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Green, thank you for your response.

Just the end of that exhaust stud was broken off so there is still plenty left to grab on to so luckily that should be too bad.

As far as the valve seals go, any guess at how certain you can be that replacing those would fix the leak? I'm a parts guy at a car dealer so I realize that nothing can even be for certain without seeing the issue, but from what I understand, valve seals are quite expensive to have a repair shop do and also quite a task to undertake yourself.

Also, when the compression test was done the engine was cold and the throttle was idle if that helps in further diagnosis. Also when running the choke must be pulled fully. To this point have had no luck getting it to run any other way. It dies within seconds of trying to move the choke.

Thank you again and maybe this additional information can help to confirm or deny the valve seals or some other additional problem(s).
 

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Well your compression is ok then, cold and dead-throttle, you'll probably be looking at 160+ normal :)

As for the seals, just from what you've said i'd be 80% certain they'd be the problem.

If you're capable of getting the cylinder-head off then you can do the valves and seals. You can use a car-type valve-spring compressor and make and adaptor to fit your head/valve-spring out of copper-pipe or similar. Don't pay somebody daft money to do it. it's only 4-valves so give it a go, plenty of help here to guide you through.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

PS You'll have to fetch your carbs off for a good clean too, sounds like the omni-present pilot-system blockages :icon_frow
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had the head off last fall to replace the head gasket thinking the oil buildup on the front of the motor may be coming from there as it was only below that line so that wont be a problem.

I suppose tomorrow I will have to head to the Kaw dealer in town here and have them get some parts coming for me. Do you have any suggestions on what to order other than the seals themselves? Just from the illustration in my Clymer repair manual I can see there are some springs, guides, etc. I only ask cause my local Kaw dealer orders parts only on Fridays and then you have to wait till the following Wed to get your stuff so I could be a month out if I start buying one thing at a time :???:

I get a little nervous at the thought of tearing a motor apart but I think after your posts I am going to give it a shot.

Also, I should have mentioned this possibly in my first post, but this is my first bike, so also my first fix-er-up job, so I apologize if this is a stupid question.

What exactly is a "omni-present pilot-system blockage"?

I was really trying to avoid taking the carbs off but I didn't exactly plan on tearing the motor apart either so hey what the hell right? lol

Thank you again for help. I was pretty down yesterday when the cost of having someone replace valve seals was told to me. I'm feeling a lot better today.
 

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Nothing more to order other than the 4 seals and the exhaust-stud.

92049-016 is the seal part number and:-

92004-049 is the stud

I assume the head-gasket you bought has not been used on a running bike so should be ok still :)

As for the omni-present etc etc it is a dead common problem on bikes that heve been left unused or unloved. Any petrol left in the carbs gums/varnishes up the small pilot-jets and their associated drillings/outlets, also a dirty fuel-system allows muck to do the same.

Look around this forum and you'll find hundreds of cases/references.

The carbs will need to be completely stripped (not separated from each other though) of floats/needles/jets and soaked in 'Seafoam' (never used it but it's highly recommended by lads over your side) then blown through wi compressed-air.

https://www.kawasakiepc.com/SSIConverted/2112900_100420_082954_4075.png

All the parts shown should be out and put in a separate tray for each carb. Be careful with the jets, a torch and/or magnifier is useful to ensure you can see what size screwdriver is needed to avoid damaging the slots.

Pay careful attention when removing the pilot-screws (19) to ensure the spring, washer and o-ring all come out (20,21 and 22)

You will be soaking the jets and the main carburettor body shown.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the seals and the stud ordered today finally. Not as cheap as I had hoped...lol

I will have them on Friday and hopefully will be able to "play" around with the bike this weekend.

I'll let you know how things go.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well Green, I am hoping you can be so kind as to offer your assistance to me again.

Got the bike all tore apart today

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=101739&id=661746632&l=dbd9c35724

Did stumble upon a few more items that I would like to ask you about.

Firstly, would a carbon build up feel gritty when rubbed between your fingers? I realize there should be some carbon build up, but it almost seems like its full of sand. The reason this worries me, is when I purchased the bike there was no air filter to be found, so I really don't know how long or how far the thing was ridden with no filter. The other thing is when we got it tore down, sitting on top of the left cylinder was a fair amount of oil. Now I don't know for sure that we did spill some taking the rocker off, but it seemed like a substantial amount, and from what I understand, that chamber should only have gas in it. The strange thing here is that it was the right side that was spitting oil out the exhaust. The only thing that ran through my mind is enough road grime got in the system that it scored the cylinder up somewhere and allowed oil up. The cylinder has some what look to be scratches but they have no feel-able depth to them and look more like swirl marks you would find on a cars paint after a not so great wax job.

If you have any information on what the heck the grit is inside my engine, or what could be the possible cause of the oil on top of the cylinder that would be great. Didnt get the valve seals actually replaced today cause we ran out of time, but they are ready to go for next time.

Thank you in advance for any insight you can provide.
 

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Lo again Eric, still suffering eh :)

I shouldn't worry about the oil on the piston, it will most likely have dropped out the head when you removed it, it wouldn't be a pool if it were getting past the rings and your decent compression and the fact you have no feel-able scouring in the bores probably rule out that as a worry.

Carbon can feel gritty yes, is it off the piston-crowns??

Dirt from the cylinder-head/cylinder join area could also have contaminated the engine when you lifted the head maybe.

Bring each piston to TDC and clean off as much as possible with clean rags soaked in petrol or similar then when the piston is dropped wipe the bore out with a rag with clean engine-oil. Then repeat.

Once the valve-stem seals are in, the valves lapped and fitted and the carbs cleaned i think you'll be right. Oh, and the stud replaced :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes the suffering continues lol

The oil was definitely a small puddle so I am glad that appears to suggest that it was just spilled.

Rubbing your finger along the top of the piston is where you can get some grime on your hand that feels like sand. I thought there should be some carbon build up there and hoped that was all i was but the grittiness of it worried me.

Any suggestion on why I cant seem to get the piston to TDC? I can only rotate the crank maybe a quarter turn or less in one direction and then have to go back the other way. I did shift into neutral.

My grandfather had a valve spring compressor on order that didnt happen to show up before the weekend and the one he had for his lawn motor engine was just a tad bit too small so we halted for that reason too.

I'm glad to hear that once those seals are in place you think it will be good to go, I am ready to ride!

As far as the stud goes, is that something that probably should just spin out of the block? Haven't played with that yet...

As always thank you very much for your help, I was real close to giving up on this thing until you responded to this thread originally. Now I'm on a mission lol
 

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Any suggestion on why I cant seem to get the piston to TDC? I can only rotate the crank maybe a quarter turn or less in one direction and then have to go back the other way. I did shift into neutral.
Strange that, should be a doddle, you are unhooking the cam-chain from its Gibbet before turning the engine, it should pull round by the chain alone???

Make sure none of the chain has got bunched up under the crank-sprocket by trying to turn the engine both ways carefully while running the chain taut over a finger or screwdriver.
If it's bunched and trapped this should free it.

Again, good luck Eric :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Worked on it more tonight. Discovered that it was the cam chain that was holding us back. We had tied it up to the frame with a piece of wire and it was keeping it from rotating freely.

Got all the valve seals put in. The first one took as long as the last three combined. We got pretty fast with that by the fourth one lol

Got the piston crowns all cleaned off pretty well.

We are held up now cause I wasn't thinking and didn't get a new head gasket, and this one is shot.

This is a horrible question, and I feel stupid for asking it as it really shows how green I am in this area, but should both pistons move to TDC at the same time?

Going to make some phone calls tomorrow and see how quick I can get a head gasket for this thing and then it will be simply putting the motor back together.

We are waiting to tear the carbs down until we have the motor put back together just so we don't have too many things tore apart at once lol

Any suggestions on removing rust from the gas tank? Its not rusting in huge chunks but the surface area on the inside of the tank has visible rust and from what I understand that can clog the carbs up just as much as leaving gas in it, and I dont want to tear them apart more than once lol.

Thank you for all of your input, will update on how the "reconstruction" goes lol
 

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Yes Eric, the pistons should rise and fall together, it's what's known as a 360-degree Twin. They don't both fire together though just as a point of interest, when one is on compression the other is on exhaust-stroke etc etc etc.

Glad it's all coming on and you're getting sadder and wiser as you do it, best way to learn eh ;)

Keep up the good work.

PS You can buy fill the tank with a bit of water or petrol/oil plus pea-gravel etc etc etc and rattle it about for a while to remove rust, obviously you'll need to plug the filler and tap holes to do it, pain in the arse but it works.

You can buy proprietary treatments to de-rust and coat the insides too.
 

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The local radiator shop(s) might be able to use a cleaning process on your gas tank and maybe seal it for you. Two popular tank sealers are Por-15 and Kreem.Both will work if the cleaning steps are followed before application of the sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you MFolks and Green.

As a side note while I wait for my head gasket to show up, I apparently am a gluton for punishment as I am highly considering picking up this guys 1980 550 that needs work lol

Got my head gasket off eBay yesterday. Dealership in Alabama (about 1500 miles away) had it for $46 while the local dealer wanted $75 for his. So now just waiting on the mail to deliver it.

Will update again soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
M,
I also called the local radiator shop and they said it can cost about $250 for them to remove rust/reseal a gas tank, so I am going to have to try something else.

Green,
I dont know that I feel like doing all the work involved in shaking the rust out lol
I may end up looking for some sort of product to take care of it.
 

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The "Kreem" kit comes with an acid designed to remove rust,it should be followed by using water to kill the acid and then an application of MEK to remove any water. After the MEK evaporates, the Kreem sealer is applied. Some riders love the kreem, others hate it. It comes down to preperation and not being hurried.

MEK is nasty stuff and should be worked with in an area that's well ventilated, also solvent resistant gloves in case of a spill.
 

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Thank you MFolks and Green.

As a side note while I wait for my head gasket to show up, I apparently am a gluton for punishment as I am highly considering picking up this guys 1980 550 that needs work lol

Got my head gasket off eBay yesterday. Dealership in Alabama (about 1500 miles away) had it for $46 while the local dealer wanted $75 for his. So now just waiting on the mail to deliver it.

Will update again soon.
eric this mike folk and stargate really help you out..lets see if i can.... a few months ago i bought the preem tank cleaner with instructions...i paid 40,00 for it and never used it if you want send me 20,00 plus shipping and its yours if it helps helps you out....risen
 
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